06 Dodge Stratus Valve Cover gasket replace
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I would guess the block design used to have a distributor or could have a vvt actuator on but since this application doesn't use it it is just plugged.
Thanks jhellwig, I do know that this engine was shared with a some other vehicles and other years. I'm changing the gasket as well as plug gaskets due to a leak and was wondering if the thing in the pic could be a problem due to where I know the leak was on this same side.
It's a Camshaft plug. MOPAR 4884880AA
If you do replace it use the Mopar one, the after market ones typically leak because they aren't as precise and as pliable as the Mopar ones. They aren't expensive anyway and I think RockAuto carries them.
If you do replace it use the Mopar one, the after market ones typically leak because they aren't as precise and as pliable as the Mopar ones. They aren't expensive anyway and I think RockAuto carries them.
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All, I am going to be installing my valve cover gasket tonight. Fel-pro Web page forum says not to use gasket sealant. My gasket is a silicone gasket that presses into the cover.
Is this correct advice to not use a gasket sealant?
In 2006 was my car manufactured without using a gasket sealer on the valve cover?
I have removed and cleaned the gasket sealer that was placed (not by me or work that others have done on my car, as far as I know) in a few places.
History of my cars owners: first was a car rental company for 1 year with 30k on it. I have had it since 2007 til now and added 120k miles.
There isn't alot of info on the Internet about the engine used in this car.
Thank you,
J
Is this correct advice to not use a gasket sealant?
In 2006 was my car manufactured without using a gasket sealer on the valve cover?
I have removed and cleaned the gasket sealer that was placed (not by me or work that others have done on my car, as far as I know) in a few places.
History of my cars owners: first was a car rental company for 1 year with 30k on it. I have had it since 2007 til now and added 120k miles.
There isn't alot of info on the Internet about the engine used in this car.
Thank you,
J
Use a small dab of RTV at ALL the joints, For example the a are 2 at that Cam Plug. I would definitively pull the plug & re-seal the radius with a small bead of RTV.
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black are my go-to RTV's for this.
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black are my go-to RTV's for this.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Use a small dab of RTV at ALL the joints, For example the a are 2 at that Cam Plug. I would definitively pull the plug & re-seal the radius with a small bead of RTV.
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black are my go-to RTV's for this.
I second this...
Use a small dab of RTV at ALL the joints, For example the a are 2 at that Cam Plug. I would definitively pull the plug & re-seal the radius with a small bead of RTV.
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black are my go-to RTV's for this.
I second this...
Done, thanks all. I'm hoping that others who have the same car or engine will search for the same answers that I have and find bobistheoilguy.com.
I wish I found this place 2 vehicles ago, if I had I would probably be driving car no. 2 still.
You all have been very helpful and patient. Thank you much StevieC and clinebanger. I used Permatex Ultra Black.
I wish I found this place 2 vehicles ago, if I had I would probably be driving car no. 2 still.
You all have been very helpful and patient. Thank you much StevieC and clinebanger. I used Permatex Ultra Black.
So as I wrote, I used permatex ultra black rtv (room temperature vulcanization) when I installed the valve cover gasket.
I used it per it's instructions and time wise it's been curing for 36 hours now.
My garage isn't heated so the permatex isn't curing at room temp.
From Sunday night temps have ranged from 46 f -28 f. Do you all think it will be good to go?
Thank you
I used it per it's instructions and time wise it's been curing for 36 hours now.
My garage isn't heated so the permatex isn't curing at room temp.
From Sunday night temps have ranged from 46 f -28 f. Do you all think it will be good to go?
Thank you
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Send a note to their help desk. They are very diligent at getting back.
www.permatex.com
Thanks Snagglefoot, I'll do that
Send a note to their help desk. They are very diligent at getting back.
www.permatex.com
Thanks Snagglefoot, I'll do that
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Send a note to their help desk. They are very diligent at getting back.
www.permatex.com
Update: I sent an email regarding the cure time for below room temps and 24 hours later I've only received an auto reply thanking me for my request.
The permatex sealant has now been curing for approx 51 hours. I think that much time is sufficient
Send a note to their help desk. They are very diligent at getting back.
www.permatex.com
Update: I sent an email regarding the cure time for below room temps and 24 hours later I've only received an auto reply thanking me for my request.
The permatex sealant has now been curing for approx 51 hours. I think that much time is sufficient
Permatex says this: "Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70ËšF - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather."
The rule of thumb from Organic Chemistry was that the rate of reaction doubles for every 10C increase in temperature.
So, working it backwards, room temp/70F = approx 20C. You're curing at, worst case, 0C, in your unheated garage, so, let's say 1/4 the reaction rate for curing.
So, worst case, again, you would need to let it cure for 4 hours to dry, and 96 to fully cure, but here's how I view it, you don't need to be "fully cured" to start the engine unless it's a really challenging application. Once you warm the engine up, and it runs for a few minutes, that silicone is going to be fully cured. If you avoid putting pressure on the gasket during that "fully cured" period, then you're fine.
TL;DR - You're fine.
The rule of thumb from Organic Chemistry was that the rate of reaction doubles for every 10C increase in temperature.
So, working it backwards, room temp/70F = approx 20C. You're curing at, worst case, 0C, in your unheated garage, so, let's say 1/4 the reaction rate for curing.
So, worst case, again, you would need to let it cure for 4 hours to dry, and 96 to fully cure, but here's how I view it, you don't need to be "fully cured" to start the engine unless it's a really challenging application. Once you warm the engine up, and it runs for a few minutes, that silicone is going to be fully cured. If you avoid putting pressure on the gasket during that "fully cured" period, then you're fine.
TL;DR - You're fine.
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Originally Posted by Astro14
Permatex says this: "Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70ËšF - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather."
The rule of thumb from Organic Chemistry was that the rate of reaction doubles for every 10C increase in temperature.
So, working it backwards, room temp/70F = approx 20C. You're curing at, worst case, 0C, in your unheated garage, so, let's say 1/4 the reaction rate for curing.
So, worst case, again, you would need to let it cure for 4 hours to dry, and 96 to fully cure, but here's how I view it, you don't need to be "fully cured" to start the engine unless it's a really challenging application. Once you warm the engine up, and it runs for a few minutes, that silicone is going to be fully cured. If you avoid putting pressure on the gasket during that "fully cured" period, then you're fine.
TL;DR - You're fine.
Appreciate your reply Astro14. Starting the engine isn't a challenging application. How much pressure am I putting on the gasket during that "fully cured" period by driving my vehicle?
Permatex says this: "Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours, at 70ËšF - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time in cold weather."
The rule of thumb from Organic Chemistry was that the rate of reaction doubles for every 10C increase in temperature.
So, working it backwards, room temp/70F = approx 20C. You're curing at, worst case, 0C, in your unheated garage, so, let's say 1/4 the reaction rate for curing.
So, worst case, again, you would need to let it cure for 4 hours to dry, and 96 to fully cure, but here's how I view it, you don't need to be "fully cured" to start the engine unless it's a really challenging application. Once you warm the engine up, and it runs for a few minutes, that silicone is going to be fully cured. If you avoid putting pressure on the gasket during that "fully cured" period, then you're fine.
TL;DR - You're fine.
Appreciate your reply Astro14. Starting the engine isn't a challenging application. How much pressure am I putting on the gasket during that "fully cured" period by driving my vehicle?
You should of put out sample in the same location as the repair. If the sample is dry then you know the repair is dry.
Do you have a heat gun or a hair dryer that you can aim at the area and leave it for an hour? (keeping an eye on it for safety) Just put the head gun on low.
We have done this in the winter up here when we don't have time to wait for silicone to cure because of cold ambient temperatures.
A space heater also works but you need to aim it properly and keep an eye on it so it doesn't melt anything or cause a fire.
If the car has a block heater plug this in as well. It will warm the metal surfaces of the engine and speed up the curing process.
We have done this in the winter up here when we don't have time to wait for silicone to cure because of cold ambient temperatures.
A space heater also works but you need to aim it properly and keep an eye on it so it doesn't melt anything or cause a fire.
If the car has a block heater plug this in as well. It will warm the metal surfaces of the engine and speed up the curing process.
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Hello all, I forgot to mention that I have replaced the plugs (old ones were worn out. Electrode was significantly shorter than the new ones), plug wires and ignition module.
The reason I did all this was to fix the leaking gasket and because I couldn't get my car started.
I ran the car the previous day for perhaps 15 miles with no noticeable problems. It just wouldn't start in the cold. Yes my battery with no load has 12.32v on it.
So fast forward to today. After letting the sealant "cure" for approx 52 hours, I go to start it and it hesitated to start, I'm guessing some oil got into the cylinders, when it started it ran at idle extremely rough. Engine shaking, white smoke from tail pipe with horrible smell. I don't think I've ever smelled that scent before. Didn't smell like gas or oil. I think I still have aftertaste in the back of my throat.
I do not have a code scanner and all wires are seated on top of plugs.
Any ideas? The car ran fine the day before I couldn't start it.
Thank you
The reason I did all this was to fix the leaking gasket and because I couldn't get my car started.
I ran the car the previous day for perhaps 15 miles with no noticeable problems. It just wouldn't start in the cold. Yes my battery with no load has 12.32v on it.
So fast forward to today. After letting the sealant "cure" for approx 52 hours, I go to start it and it hesitated to start, I'm guessing some oil got into the cylinders, when it started it ran at idle extremely rough. Engine shaking, white smoke from tail pipe with horrible smell. I don't think I've ever smelled that scent before. Didn't smell like gas or oil. I think I still have aftertaste in the back of my throat.
I do not have a code scanner and all wires are seated on top of plugs.
Any ideas? The car ran fine the day before I couldn't start it.
Thank you
Are you finding your coolant level is dropping?
Ok, so I'm a dumb**s.
I went and rechecked the spark plug wires.
Some were seated properly, some not.
At the ignition coil some were seated properly and some not.
1 by 1 I unplugged and made sure I plugged into the plug and heard the clip click onto the plug then plugged into the ignition coil.
Car fired right up, some smoke from exhaust but not like before.
Idiot light came on and stays on.
Drive 5 miles to AAP. When i get there i left car running and no smoke from exhaust. Car riding like it did before my endeavor. Young AAP lady pulls code that means multiple cylinder misfire. Asks how long I drove, I tell her 5. She comes back with "let it go for 50 to 100 miles. Ok, drive back home.
I knew my battery had 12.32 volts with car off.
With car running I get 14.80 volts. 1 by 1 turn on lights, blower, radio and defroster and still have 14.8 volts.
I will monitor coolant and report back here.
In the mean time, here's to many more miles.
BTW. Permatex got back to me and told me I should be fine with the time and temps that I had the Ultra Black curing for.
Thank you all so very much.
I went and rechecked the spark plug wires.
Some were seated properly, some not.
At the ignition coil some were seated properly and some not.
1 by 1 I unplugged and made sure I plugged into the plug and heard the clip click onto the plug then plugged into the ignition coil.
Car fired right up, some smoke from exhaust but not like before.
Idiot light came on and stays on.
Drive 5 miles to AAP. When i get there i left car running and no smoke from exhaust. Car riding like it did before my endeavor. Young AAP lady pulls code that means multiple cylinder misfire. Asks how long I drove, I tell her 5. She comes back with "let it go for 50 to 100 miles. Ok, drive back home.
I knew my battery had 12.32 volts with car off.
With car running I get 14.80 volts. 1 by 1 turn on lights, blower, radio and defroster and still have 14.8 volts.
I will monitor coolant and report back here.
In the mean time, here's to many more miles.
BTW. Permatex got back to me and told me I should be fine with the time and temps that I had the Ultra Black curing for.
Thank you all so very much.
It's most likely that it was the multiple cylinder misfire. In cars of that era and older they would still fire the injector regardless if the cylinder is misfiring or not instead of shutting down the cylinders injector in later ECU's when continual misfire is detected.
So most likely you had excessive fuel in the cylinder that it had to burn off which is why it's running fine now and what would have caused the white smoke (usually black but in cold weather can be white).
Monitor the coolant anyway just in case it's a head gasket / cracked head which usually causes problems with hot-restart. But given what you said it's most likely the wires weren't on the plugs properly.
So most likely you had excessive fuel in the cylinder that it had to burn off which is why it's running fine now and what would have caused the white smoke (usually black but in cold weather can be white).
Monitor the coolant anyway just in case it's a head gasket / cracked head which usually causes problems with hot-restart. But given what you said it's most likely the wires weren't on the plugs properly.
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