Newest Quaker State full syn, okay for 10K mile OCI?

[Snagglefoot]

Guys, 25,000 miles is a long OCI. 10,000 miles is normal and many, many, OLM's ask for it. Any synthetic will be fine. It's just that the long OCI fans are not chiming in right now. Take a look in the UOA's and check out the mileage on them. Decide for yourself.

For those all concerned show us your UOA's showing the bad news.

 

[Brigadier]

Originally Posted by dwcopple
So for years on here it was shouted 5-6k on dino oil was nothing, now a 10k oil change with a quality syn is questionable. Hmmm.


Enter GDI engines....

 

[dave1251]

Is the recommended OCI 10K on "conventional" Pennzoil? If so QSUD will do well.

 

[LE_Oil_Guy]

I recommend changing your oil filter between extended drains. As engine oil and the filter accumulate miles, they become contaminated with carbon, water and various acids, all of which are a byproduct of internal combustion that will form a film of black, gooey sludge on the interior parts of the engine.

Cold-engine operation accelerates the formation of contaminates because the oil temperatures aren't sufficient to evaporate accumulated moisture. Oil contaminates are also aggravated by short-trip, cold-weather driving. Over time, the filter will collect enough contaminates to become restricted. Most oil filters are changed at an interval of 5,000 to 7,500 miles so if you are extending drains out to 10k or 15k, you need to change your oil filter at the half-way point.

 

[dwcopple]

we'll see what the old one looks like when I pull it today. It is a cartridge filter on the top of the engine. easy enough to change, but, is it REALLY necessary?

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Guys, 25,000 miles is a long OCI. 10,000 miles is normal and many, many, OLM's ask for it. Any synthetic will be fine. It's just that the long OCI fans are not chiming in right now. Take a look in the UOA's and check out the mileage on them. Decide for yourself.

For those all concerned show us your UOA's showing the bad news.

Why risk it without confirming it for $10 USD via a Wix Sample kit, heck even if it was $100? There are too many variables that might affect this, so blanket statements is not a good idea. I don't know about anyone else but $10 to be sure on a $5K-$7K investment is silly not to do. Why play Russian Roulette with your engine?

 

[tiger862]

My owners manual says 10k or OLM on conventional oil so manufacturers say ok. I go 5k and that is still hard for me as I was a 3k guy. Agree with sample if you are concerned.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Guys, 25,000 miles is a long OCI. 10,000 miles is normal and many, many, OLM's ask for it. Any synthetic will be fine. It's just that the long OCI fans are not chiming in right now. Take a look in the UOA's and check out the mileage on them. Decide for yourself.

For those all concerned show us your UOA's showing the bad news.

Why risk it without confirming it for $10 USD via a Wix Sample kit, heck even if it was $100? There are too many variables that might affect this, so blanket statements is not a good idea. I don't know about anyone else but $10 to be sure on a $5K-$7K investment is silly not to do. Why play Russian Roulette with your engine?


Steve where are you getting those $10 Wix sample kits. Cheapest I can find here are $21 and tax.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

When you Google the Wix Oil Analysis Kit, up-comes a link to RockAuto.com
I am buying one soon. Then I will buy a hand oil pump from Blackstone for around $16.

Blackstone and others more expensive, talk to you. The Wix one does not. You need to know how to decipher it and when you post your results over at the VOA/UOA boards here, members here will help you break it-all down.

Then you need to decide whether you believe the helpful member's results. But after-all, nobody has ever told a lie on the internet yet....lol

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Guys, 25,000 miles is a long OCI. 10,000 miles is normal and many, many, OLM's ask for it. Any synthetic will be fine. It's just that the long OCI fans are not chiming in right now. Take a look in the UOA's and check out the mileage on them. Decide for yourself.

For those all concerned show us your UOA's showing the bad news.

Why risk it without confirming it for $10 USD via a Wix Sample kit, heck even if it was $100? There are too many variables that might affect this, so blanket statements is not a good idea. I don't know about anyone else but $10 to be sure on a $5K-$7K investment is silly not to do. Why play Russian Roulette with your engine?


Steve where are you getting those $10 Wix sample kits. Cheapest I can find here are $21 and tax.


I just bought 3 of them yesterday from RockAuto and they were $12cdn and change each so converted to USD they were less than $10 each plus minor shipping charge. Look up Wix 24077 I think the number is. (Not in front of my computer now)

Edit:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wix,24077,,0

 

[KevinP]

My Dodge has a factory 10K OCI based upon the OLM. It actually usually pops around 9.5K but close enough. It doesn't specify synthetic. That is largely a meaningless term anyway. It does specify MS-6395 which can be satisfied by several inexpensive oils.

My Chevy has an OLM too but I don't run enough miles on it to ever hit a change. I change it yearly.

My Hyundai and my son's Kia have small sumps. The Kia only uses about 3.5 Qt of oil a change. I change it every 5K or there abouts because he runs back and forth to school with good long distance highway runs. If you run a vehicle 10K with nothing but couple mile short trips (don't know how you would do that) that is significantly different than running it in long multiple hours highway commutes.

So.... miles are only part of the equation. How you operate the vehicle matters and that is why I like OLMs that track vehicle use. They theoretically account for how you use the vehicle and offer a safe drain interval engineered for your car.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Speaking of when to time an oi change.....
I drive a new 2.4 Hyundai, far different engine than those I had prior. Transmission also quite different.

These new four cylinder engine really need a-lot of torque to achieve speed in a hurry. A perfect example is my gas pedal never even reaching half-way down to the floor and my RPMs sometimes hit nearly 4 as I accelerate to the 50MPH speed limit.

Why is this 8-speed tranny that seems to shift to the next higher gear ever 10MPH, require so much torque (nearly 4K), going from hypothetical 3rd gear to 4th gear and my foot never going more than halfway down on the gas pedal?

 

[madeej11]

Originally Posted by LE_Oil_Guy
I recommend changing your oil filter between extended drains. As engine oil and the filter accumulate miles, they become contaminated with carbon, water and various acids, all of which are a byproduct of internal combustion that will form a film of black, gooey sludge on the interior parts of the engine.

Cold-engine operation accelerates the formation of contaminates because the oil temperatures aren't sufficient to evaporate accumulated moisture. Oil contaminates are also aggravated by short-trip, cold-weather driving. Over time, the filter will collect enough contaminates to become restricted. Most oil filters are changed at an interval of 5,000 to 7,500 miles so if you are extending drains out to 10k or 15k, you need to change your oil filter at the half-way point.

Well, well, well nothing like getting schooled by a newbie. Seriously, all the above is common knowledge to bitogers. Elementary my dear sir. Cheers.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by KevinP
My Dodge has a factory 10K OCI based upon the OLM. It actually usually pops around 9.5K but close enough. It doesn't specify synthetic. That is largely a meaningless term anyway. It does specify MS-6395 which can be satisfied by several inexpensive oils.

My Chevy has an OLM too but I don't run enough miles on it to ever hit a change. I change it yearly.

My Hyundai and my son's Kia have small sumps. The Kia only uses about 3.5 Qt of oil a change. I change it every 5K or there abouts because he runs back and forth to school with good long distance highway runs. If you run a vehicle 10K with nothing but couple mile short trips (don't know how you would do that) that is significantly different than running it in long multiple hours highway commutes.

So.... miles are only part of the equation. How you operate the vehicle matters and that is why I like OLMs that track vehicle use. They theoretically account for how you use the vehicle and offer a safe drain interval engineered for your car.

My OLM in the Caravan goes off at 13,000km or so (8K miles) and my Journey used to do the same.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by KevinP
My Dodge has a factory 10K OCI based upon the OLM. It actually usually pops around 9.5K but close enough. It doesn't specify synthetic. That is largely a meaningless term anyway. It does specify MS-6395 which can be satisfied by several inexpensive oils.

My Chevy has an OLM too but I don't run enough miles on it to ever hit a change. I change it yearly.

My Hyundai and my son's Kia have small sumps. The Kia only uses about 3.5 Qt of oil a change. I change it every 5K or there abouts because he runs back and forth to school with good long distance highway runs. If you run a vehicle 10K with nothing but couple mile short trips (don't know how you would do that) that is significantly different than running it in long multiple hours highway commutes.

So.... miles are only part of the equation. How you operate the vehicle matters and that is why I like OLMs that track vehicle use. They theoretically account for how you use the vehicle and offer a safe drain interval engineered for your car.

My OLM in the Caravan goes off at 13,000km or so (8K miles) and my Journey used to do the same.



And the former Ram I owned went off at exactly 10K miles.

 

[StevieC]

My manual says not to exceed 16K KM (10K miles) under any circumstances. I do UOA's periodically and let that dictate what is safe and ignore the OLM.

 

[LE_Oil_Guy]

I guess I'd expect a response like that from a self-described amateur gynecologist. Seriously, is this a place for professionals to share knowledge or is this a place for pretentious amateurs with internet bravado? If you already know something, then that's great, no need to pop off. But, I'm willing to bet someone who read my post learned something. In fact, the OP asked if changing the oil filter was really necessary during extended drains so its not common knowledge here at bitog. Also, in my business this discussion comes up all the time and most maintenance professionals don't know that changing oil filters during extended drains is recommended or why it's recommended.

madeej11, beating up on me is done. I made a mistake, came in too hot in my first posts, got talked to by Wayne, and am here to share knowledge on lubrication and asset reliability. I've had a few PM conversations with others also. I am not a newby to the industry and have a lot of knowledge I can share with you and others. So, how about giving me another chance and curb the flippant attitude towards me. Cheers!

 

[KevinP]

Originally Posted by StevieC
My manual says not to exceed 16K KM (10K miles) under any circumstances. I do UOA's periodically and let that dictate what is safe and ignore the OLM.



The follow your manual guideline is too simple for most people on this forum but it is a pretty safe guideline. Nothing wrong with doing UOAs and being genuinely curious about oil and engines. That is why I hang out here. I like to know how stuff works. Doing UOAs are not all that cost effective nor helpful to the general population. I think OLMs are a useful tool for all automotive owners because they can be designed to extend oil life (or shorten it) based upon use factors that we know will impact the life of the fluids. To me.... they make a ton of sense.

But yea... UOAs are even more reassurance if you are the type of person willing to delve into those details. They will catch things that a OLM won't. There is no way a OLM can catch an issue with an air filter or a coolant leak or fuel dilution caused by something other than short-tripping.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Welcome to BITOG LE Oil Guy. There's room for you here.

 

[LE_Oil_Guy]

Thanks, Triple_Se7en!