I was wondering what additives have esters. Also a price guide per oci would help. Purchasing a new car and would like to milk every last mile from the very start. Not a huge fan of moly so2.
Extending engine life with esters?
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Lubegard Biotech Engine Protectant., and Hyperlube Zinc Replacement. Those are two additives that contain esters from what I've learned from communicating with the companies, and/or read here.
Esters can be a problem if too much is used causing seal swell in addition to possibly increasing the pliability of the seals. It's best to use an oil that is carefully balanced that has a history of long engine life like M1 or whatever and not try to play oil chemist yourself as you can do more harm than good and possibly upset the carefully balanced oil chemistry in the oil you are using.
The anecdotal evidence I can offer is the 300K miles I did in the Santa Fe and it wasn't using any measurable amount of oil when the camshaft let go. Amsoil is known to use Esters in their oils, but they do so in a limited amount for that reason. They are great higher end additive carriers and great cleaners in some regards but can swell seals if not tightly controlled. PAO generally has the opposite effect on seals than Esters so the one will cancel the other out in the right proportions whereas Group III's are generally benign to seals and don't need Esters. (It's a careful science)
High mileage oils sometimes contain esters to aid in swelling the seals a bit because they have already shrunk and/or hardened and need a bit of a massage to make them seal properly again but if there was too much of this agent in there it could make things even worse which is why they are carefully balanced.
I'd ask Molakule via PM if you insist on doing this because he would be best to comment on this before you might make a big mistake and do more harm than good there are enough of us here and UOA's of really high mileage engines proving all you need is oil changed regularly that meets the specifications. There is a million mile guy here. No additives.
The anecdotal evidence I can offer is the 300K miles I did in the Santa Fe and it wasn't using any measurable amount of oil when the camshaft let go. Amsoil is known to use Esters in their oils, but they do so in a limited amount for that reason. They are great higher end additive carriers and great cleaners in some regards but can swell seals if not tightly controlled. PAO generally has the opposite effect on seals than Esters so the one will cancel the other out in the right proportions whereas Group III's are generally benign to seals and don't need Esters. (It's a careful science)
High mileage oils sometimes contain esters to aid in swelling the seals a bit because they have already shrunk and/or hardened and need a bit of a massage to make them seal properly again but if there was too much of this agent in there it could make things even worse which is why they are carefully balanced.
I'd ask Molakule via PM if you insist on doing this because he would be best to comment on this before you might make a big mistake and do more harm than good there are enough of us here and UOA's of really high mileage engines proving all you need is oil changed regularly that meets the specifications. There is a million mile guy here. No additives.
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Originally Posted by Linctex
Since you are in Illinois....
your car will be rusted away before you can do anything "special"
to your car's oil to keep the engine from failing before the sheetmetal is gone...........
I speak the truth.
I live in Illinois, and while only a very small part of Illinois is north of I80, I still agree.
Even in Southern IL, chances are the rest of the car will wear out long before a properly maintained engine will. No amount of esters will prevent rust, falling headliners, and other issues that lead the vast majority of people to move out of their current car and into their next.
Since you are in Illinois....
your car will be rusted away before you can do anything "special"
to your car's oil to keep the engine from failing before the sheetmetal is gone...........
I speak the truth.
I live in Illinois, and while only a very small part of Illinois is north of I80, I still agree.
Even in Southern IL, chances are the rest of the car will wear out long before a properly maintained engine will. No amount of esters will prevent rust, falling headliners, and other issues that lead the vast majority of people to move out of their current car and into their next.
I've gotten over 400K in my Sienna using mostly Mobil 1 oils, lately Castrol. No additives or anything, why do you think you need one?
With a new car 5k miles on the cheapest oil you can find in Walmart, etc, in the grade on the oil fill. Change filter too. Its that simple. Be prepared for a couple of pgs of why one is better than another.
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dnewton3's signature says everything you really need to know: changing your oil and filter in and of itself is more important than using any "special" oil or additive. All you need is an oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements and change it on the recommended schedule that's listed in the owner's manual. That alone will get you 99.99% of the possible miles out of an engine. The other .01% of life extension is so ridiculously expensive that it's cheaper to pocket that amount as savings and buy a new car with it, rather than spending that kind of money on your current (new) car.
My condolences about being a Jets fan.
My condolences about being a Jets fan.
I was thinking about running amsoil but the price is ridiculous. At ten bucks a quart it better be magic coming out of that bottle. I've heard good things about m1. Everyone wants to tinker a little with their machines, and shops around where I live are blatant ripoffs. Currently running a 3.4 05 impala with 192k. It runs quite well for her age. Doesn't leak and only burns maybe a half quart or so over 4k conventional changes. It has been well taken care of, at least the engine has... There's a reason we call it the rust belt. No condolences needed, the Jets shall rise again one day. I hope.
Wasting your time and money on that stuff.
Pick any synthetic oil from walmart and change it at the manufacturers OCI. Use OEM (in bulk from Ebay) or any of the good quality mid range ($4-7) filters (Napa gold, Fram, WIX, Super tech, Motorcraft, AC Delco, etc) and you will not have any oil related problems.
Pick any synthetic oil from walmart and change it at the manufacturers OCI. Use OEM (in bulk from Ebay) or any of the good quality mid range ($4-7) filters (Napa gold, Fram, WIX, Super tech, Motorcraft, AC Delco, etc) and you will not have any oil related problems.
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Originally Posted by Jetsfan421
I was thinking about running amsoil but the price is ridiculous. At ten bucks a quart it better be magic coming out of that bottle. I've heard good things about m1. Everyone wants to tinker a little with their machines, and shops around where I live are blatant ripoffs. Currently running a 3.4 05 impala with 192k. It runs quite well for her age. Doesn't leak and only burns maybe a half quart or so over 4k conventional changes. It has been well taken care of, at least the engine has... There's a reason we call it the rust belt. No condolences needed, the Jets shall rise again one day. I hope.
Their Signature Series oils are built for long drain intervals so the additive packages and basestocks used to accomplish that make it expensive. That is why they have XL and OE line of oils to be more price competitive while still offering either extended intervals (XL) or factory intervals (OE) versus the top-notch stuff (Signature) which is the longest OCI.
If someone is changing the Amsoil Signature series at 10,000 miles or less it's not worth the cost per mile in most cases.
Also don't forget with a yearly membership of $20-$25 you get 25% off the prices you see when you first arrive at the site. So if you are buying oil regularly it would make sense. Plus orders of $100 or more (easy to do) are shipped for free.
Not trying to convince you, just explaining the "why".
For folks like me that do a lot of miles in a short time (600 miles per week or more) it makes sense to do extended OCI's and have to change it less often, thus the cost per mile works out to be less expensive than more frequent changes of an economy lubricant not built for extended drain intervals and I get the added benefit of not doing the change in the cold winters as often. ALWAYS a plus.
I was thinking about running amsoil but the price is ridiculous. At ten bucks a quart it better be magic coming out of that bottle. I've heard good things about m1. Everyone wants to tinker a little with their machines, and shops around where I live are blatant ripoffs. Currently running a 3.4 05 impala with 192k. It runs quite well for her age. Doesn't leak and only burns maybe a half quart or so over 4k conventional changes. It has been well taken care of, at least the engine has... There's a reason we call it the rust belt. No condolences needed, the Jets shall rise again one day. I hope.
Their Signature Series oils are built for long drain intervals so the additive packages and basestocks used to accomplish that make it expensive. That is why they have XL and OE line of oils to be more price competitive while still offering either extended intervals (XL) or factory intervals (OE) versus the top-notch stuff (Signature) which is the longest OCI.
If someone is changing the Amsoil Signature series at 10,000 miles or less it's not worth the cost per mile in most cases.
Also don't forget with a yearly membership of $20-$25 you get 25% off the prices you see when you first arrive at the site. So if you are buying oil regularly it would make sense. Plus orders of $100 or more (easy to do) are shipped for free.
Not trying to convince you, just explaining the "why".
For folks like me that do a lot of miles in a short time (600 miles per week or more) it makes sense to do extended OCI's and have to change it less often, thus the cost per mile works out to be less expensive than more frequent changes of an economy lubricant not built for extended drain intervals and I get the added benefit of not doing the change in the cold winters as often. ALWAYS a plus.
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