Thanks 14Accent

[clinebarger]

Thought I would give credit where credit is due......I've pulled cabs on 6.0L & 6.4L powered Ford Trucks, But never really thought of doing it on gas powered Fords 'til 14Accent posted a thread on doing Timing Chains on a 3.5L Ecoboost with the cab pulled.

This is a 2003 F-250 5.4L that has a cracked cylinder head.....If it was just Timing Chains, I would have done it with the cab-on. Manual calls for pulling the engine to do cylinder head R&R.

Started at 10am, Had both heads pulled, Cab back on the frame & pushed off the lift by 3pm with an hour lunch in the middle. Ran the heads by the machine shop on my way home.

Without the CAC pipes & driver side battery found on the diesel trucks......The cab is even easier to pull!

 

[mattd]

That's how I do all ford trucks. I have also done a lbz duramax van by removing body from chassis made cylinder head r and r in less than half of book time. This method on the 6.0 powerstroke I can start by 830 and the heads will be ready for the machine shop by noon. Wish I still had some old photos of that van that was a first for me on a gm van

 

[FlyNavyP3]

That's awesome that a tip from another member helped you out. Working outside in Texas doesn't seem like much fun in the summer! Heck even this time of year it can get pretty chilly!

Any pictures of the engine bores, under valve covers, timing, cracked head?

 

[bdcardinal]

It really is a no brainer to pull the cab on a truck. Everything is out in the open and accessible. People making fun of it probably don't have access to a lift or have tried it. The only downside are squeaks and rattles from the body bushings, which with the cab off are super easy to change out.

 

[Snagglefoot]

What about the connections between the master cylinder and the brake lines. Does the master cylinder stay bolted to the cab.? Also are the appropriate electrical connectors at strategically handy places? Also where does the steering column come apart? This is all very cool.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
That's awesome that a tip from another member helped you out. Working outside in Texas doesn't seem like much fun in the summer! Heck even this time of year it can get pretty chilly!

Any pictures of the engine bores, under valve covers, timing, cracked head?


I'm not one of those guys that can't admit they learned something new, Having worked at a Hot Rod Shop for the previous 15 years building performance transmissions & doing LSx swaps.....And before that, Working exclusively at GM Dealerships leaves room to grow.

I have a assigned bay & a lift inside the shop as well, Nobody else likes working in the outside bays around back besides me. In fact.....The lift in the pic was non-operational for over a decade 'til I fixed it. One of the 110vac legs was dead.....So I brought my old 220 welder extension cord from home. Installed a Outlet & Box on the pump motor whip, Changed the hydraulic fluid, & Lubed the moving parts. The picture shows the extension cord.
It was a nice day today....60°F high with it being 55° at 10am.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
What about the connections between the master cylinder and the brake lines. Does the master cylinder stay bolted to the cab.? Also are the appropriate electrical connectors at strategically handy places? Also where does the steering column come apart? This is all very cool.


You undo the lines going from the master to the HCU and bleed after. I have seen some guys unbolt the hydroboost from the firewall. The electrical connections are all fairly accessible as you move along the list of things to remove.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
What about the connections between the master cylinder and the brake lines. Does the master cylinder stay bolted to the cab.? Also are the appropriate electrical connectors at strategically handy places? Also where does the steering column come apart? This is all very cool.


I was thinking the same things..... It just sounds TOO DARN EASY!!!

 

[mattd]

The lines from the master stay with the truck. Unbolt the abs unit and the master from the fender and hydro boost and lay it on the engine. You don't have to open ge system. The lines are flexible stainless on the fords

 

[nthach]

What about the HVAC unit? How do you deal with that when you take the cab off?

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted by nthach
What about the HVAC unit? How do you deal with that when you take the cab off?


Evacuate the refrigerant and disconnect the lines at the firewall.

 

[mattd]

Disconnect the suction and discharge lines from condenser and accumulator and lay them on the engine . Hvac housing stays put