I don't see much about this lube. How well does it hold up to extended drains? Considering it in a couple of Toyotas but they call for a 10k oci...perhaps my work vehicle as well...another Toyota. I was strongly leaning towards 0w40 M1...but am worried about potential warranty issues should something arise as both have lifetime powertrain warrantees through the dealer.
Mobil 1 0w30
- Thread starter Doublehaul
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If that is a special warranty from the dealer, make sure you read the fine print. They might be expecting you to come to them for all the maintenance work. I don't think you'll find dealers putting 40 wt oil in a Toyota. What does your Tacoma owners manual say? Edit: It says 0w20.
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Ive read the print...and have written authorization to do all of my own maintenance. This is a reputable dealer.
The owners manual allows for thicker oil for high speed and high load driving...but it doesn't specify grade etc.
The owners manual allows for thicker oil for high speed and high load driving...but it doesn't specify grade etc.
And both Toyota's are still on warranty in where? USA?
If you do feel comfortable running the 40, I would go that route. The M1 turns into a solid 30wt anyway and it's a pretty decent oil from the discussions and UOA's here.
The 0w40 is A3/B4 and carries multiple excellent Euro certifications:
MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
VW 502 00/505 00
PORSCHE A40
Nissan Genuine Performances
https://www.mobil.com/English-AU/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-0W40
The 0w30 is A1/B1
API SN, SM, SL, SJ, SN PLUS
ILSAC-GF-5
Ford WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C953-A, WSS-M2C953-B1, WSS-M2C929-A
https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-0w30
The 0w40 is A3/B4 and carries multiple excellent Euro certifications:
MB-Approval 229.3
MB-Approval 229.5
VW 502 00/505 00
PORSCHE A40
Nissan Genuine Performances
https://www.mobil.com/English-AU/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-0W40
The 0w30 is A1/B1
API SN, SM, SL, SJ, SN PLUS
ILSAC-GF-5
Ford WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C953-A, WSS-M2C953-B1, WSS-M2C929-A
https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-0w30
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Actually, I'm getting drawn into a viscosity discussion. Here you go.
Id have killed for this stuff for my fathers 3800 series II. The engine had been hydrolocked by one of GMs signature intake issues and it wiped the bearings out with about 45k on the engine. The oil pressure light would flicker when warm with any 30 or 40 wt oil. We ran 20w50 it for another 200k with no oil pressure light and no noise...but cold starting was always fun up here LOL
If you have a life time warranty, why worry about what oil to use? Just make sure you satisfy the warranty requirements and use whatever they tell you. After all if they make a mistake, they take care of it.
There's no need for using anything other than a 20w oil in a new Toyota, especially in the 'Ice Box of the Nation'. Your engine won't last longer by using a 30w instead of a 20w if you're just driving normally on the street.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Maybe he's not driving "normally". He has another thread going asking what oil to use for driving with higher engine revs.
If he's not racing or putting the engine under a high load, he's driving normally. The other thread indicates he doesn't need it.
Maybe he's not driving "normally". He has another thread going asking what oil to use for driving with higher engine revs.
If he's not racing or putting the engine under a high load, he's driving normally. The other thread indicates he doesn't need it.
Both of the AFE oils are solid choices that have outstanding cold weather attributes. They also meet D1 G2. The 0w30 has an MRV @ -40ºC (ASTM D4684) of 13,250. It's not very shear stable though, by design as the HT/HS is only 3.0. Per XOM it is of the GM 4178M level of quality. If I lived in an area with extremely cold winter temps, AFE 0w20/30 would be my choice. These oils from what I understand also have slightly better friction modification than the other M1 oils.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
Originally Posted by buster
Both of the AFE oils are solid choices that have outstanding cold weather attributes. They also meet D1 G2. The 0w30 has an MRV @ -40ºC (ASTM D4684) of 13,250. It's not very shear stable though, by design as the HT/HS is only 3.0. Per XOM it is of the GM 4178M level of quality. If I lived in an area with extremely cold winter temps, AFE 0w20/30 would be my choice. These oils from what I understand also have slightly better friction modification than the other M1 oils.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
I am using 0W30 AFE right now, I have to report that it "feels" like every other oil I have used!
;^)
Haven't had a severe enough cold snap to test whether I think my car turns over faster than with the 5W30s I have used in the past. You can imagine how scientific this test would be...
Strangely enough, going by the XOM MSDS archive, 0W30 is 10-20% PAO while 5W30 is 20-30%! Sheets are from 2017 for 0W30 and 2015 for 5W30.
Both of the AFE oils are solid choices that have outstanding cold weather attributes. They also meet D1 G2. The 0w30 has an MRV @ -40ºC (ASTM D4684) of 13,250. It's not very shear stable though, by design as the HT/HS is only 3.0. Per XOM it is of the GM 4178M level of quality. If I lived in an area with extremely cold winter temps, AFE 0w20/30 would be my choice. These oils from what I understand also have slightly better friction modification than the other M1 oils.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
I am using 0W30 AFE right now, I have to report that it "feels" like every other oil I have used!
;^)
Haven't had a severe enough cold snap to test whether I think my car turns over faster than with the 5W30s I have used in the past. You can imagine how scientific this test would be...
Strangely enough, going by the XOM MSDS archive, 0W30 is 10-20% PAO while 5W30 is 20-30%! Sheets are from 2017 for 0W30 and 2015 for 5W30.
Originally Posted by Doublehaul
I don't see much about this lube. How well does it hold up to extended drains? Considering it in a couple of Toyotas but they call for a 10k oci...perhaps my work vehicle as well...another Toyota. I was strongly leaning towards 0w40 M1...but am worried about potential warranty issues should something arise as both have lifetime powertrain warrantees through the dealer.
The oil will hold up just fine to extended drain intervals. Whether your engine likes circulating particulates and oil dilution via ever increasing fuel byproducts for extended periods of time is another matter entirely.
My suggestion is as follows: Choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it regularly.
The oil change is the ONLY way to remove such contaminates. Remember, fuel that makes it past the rings and into the oil mostly evaporates, leaving behind the fuel's heavier components and additives, none of which are oil. Ever wonder why some engines consume no oil at all? They do consume a little oil. Much of which is replaced by fuel components that don't evaporate.
Interestingly, the Honda 1.5L is known for INCREASING oil levels. Again, the oil change is the only way to remove such contaminates.
I don't see much about this lube. How well does it hold up to extended drains? Considering it in a couple of Toyotas but they call for a 10k oci...perhaps my work vehicle as well...another Toyota. I was strongly leaning towards 0w40 M1...but am worried about potential warranty issues should something arise as both have lifetime powertrain warrantees through the dealer.
The oil will hold up just fine to extended drain intervals. Whether your engine likes circulating particulates and oil dilution via ever increasing fuel byproducts for extended periods of time is another matter entirely.
My suggestion is as follows: Choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it regularly.
The oil change is the ONLY way to remove such contaminates. Remember, fuel that makes it past the rings and into the oil mostly evaporates, leaving behind the fuel's heavier components and additives, none of which are oil. Ever wonder why some engines consume no oil at all? They do consume a little oil. Much of which is replaced by fuel components that don't evaporate.
Interestingly, the Honda 1.5L is known for INCREASING oil levels. Again, the oil change is the only way to remove such contaminates.
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Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by buster
Both of the AFE oils are solid choices that have outstanding cold weather attributes. They also meet D1 G2. The 0w30 has an MRV @ -40ºC (ASTM D4684) of 13,250. It's not very shear stable though, by design as the HT/HS is only 3.0. Per XOM it is of the GM 4178M level of quality. If I lived in an area with extremely cold winter temps, AFE 0w20/30 would be my choice. These oils from what I understand also have slightly better friction modification than the other M1 oils.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
I am using 0W30 AFE right now, I have to report that it "feels" like every other oil I have used!
;^)
Haven't had a severe enough cold snap to test whether I think my car turns over faster than with the 5W30s I have used in the past. You can imagine how scientific this test would be...
Strangely enough, going by the XOM MSDS archive, 0W30 is 10-20% PAO while 5W30 is 20-30%! Sheets are from 2017 for 0W30 and 2015 for 5W30.
Sounds about right to me.
Originally Posted by buster
Both of the AFE oils are solid choices that have outstanding cold weather attributes. They also meet D1 G2. The 0w30 has an MRV @ -40ºC (ASTM D4684) of 13,250. It's not very shear stable though, by design as the HT/HS is only 3.0. Per XOM it is of the GM 4178M level of quality. If I lived in an area with extremely cold winter temps, AFE 0w20/30 would be my choice. These oils from what I understand also have slightly better friction modification than the other M1 oils.
Both have a slug of PAO in them, with the majority being III+ with V. The 0w16 is all PAO/V.
I am using 0W30 AFE right now, I have to report that it "feels" like every other oil I have used!
;^)
Haven't had a severe enough cold snap to test whether I think my car turns over faster than with the 5W30s I have used in the past. You can imagine how scientific this test would be...
Strangely enough, going by the XOM MSDS archive, 0W30 is 10-20% PAO while 5W30 is 20-30%! Sheets are from 2017 for 0W30 and 2015 for 5W30.
Sounds about right to me.
Look at the cold flow tests on the youtube, a picture is worth a thousand words. The benefit of 0w40's is they are not regulated the same way as 30 weights, but if I had a 4 cylinder or six and needed a 0 weight, this would be near the top of my list. I have seen amazing results from this oil in uoa's, some that are 1/2 the wear in twice the miles as whatever they have replaced it with. Use your google, when it comes to that single weight 0w30, m1 does it right.
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
If that is a special warranty from the dealer, make sure you read the fine print. They might be expecting you to come to them for all the maintenance work. I don't think you'll find dealers putting 40 wt oil in a Toyota. What does your Tacoma owners manual say? Edit: It says 0w20.
I have actually had them do that for me on a 2018 4Runner. Dealer installed my provided M1 0w40. They started to try to say they wouldn't do it, but I had the owners manual ready and a discussion with the service advisor and they then agreed
It was allowed.
But your doubts are noted.
Also had dealer install thicker than 0w20 in my Tacoma. What do you know, we are the customer, they will do it and you ask them to and you will get credit in the vehicle electronic record for having maintenance performed.
This weekend some 0w40 is going back in the Tacoma, it's been 5k miles on whatever the dealer in Galveston used in September.
If that is a special warranty from the dealer, make sure you read the fine print. They might be expecting you to come to them for all the maintenance work. I don't think you'll find dealers putting 40 wt oil in a Toyota. What does your Tacoma owners manual say? Edit: It says 0w20.
I have actually had them do that for me on a 2018 4Runner. Dealer installed my provided M1 0w40. They started to try to say they wouldn't do it, but I had the owners manual ready and a discussion with the service advisor and they then agreed
It was allowed.
But your doubts are noted.
Also had dealer install thicker than 0w20 in my Tacoma. What do you know, we are the customer, they will do it and you ask them to and you will get credit in the vehicle electronic record for having maintenance performed.
This weekend some 0w40 is going back in the Tacoma, it's been 5k miles on whatever the dealer in Galveston used in September.
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