I have quite a few jobs coming up where I have a need to use it for metal clamps on both inner tie rod boots and CV boots. I see that Lisle 30800 is quite popular and that is what I am leaning towards. Any other recommendations out there?
CV Boot Pliers - Looking for recommendations
- Thread starter qdeezie
- Start date
- Status
There are several different types - it depends on the style of clamps that you are working with.
Pic 1 shows the Oetiker style clamps. Lisle 30800 works for those. A lot of the newer Toyota's use this style, though this particular picture is from a B6 Passat that I did last week.
Pic 2 shows the earless-type clamps. This is the picture of an inner boot that I did on a 05 Corolla.
Pic 3 are the band style clamps. OTC 4623 is the tool needed for those.
Pic 1 shows the Oetiker style clamps. Lisle 30800 works for those. A lot of the newer Toyota's use this style, though this particular picture is from a B6 Passat that I did last week.
Pic 2 shows the earless-type clamps. This is the picture of an inner boot that I did on a 05 Corolla.
Pic 3 are the band style clamps. OTC 4623 is the tool needed for those.
Last edited:
I have the Knipex Tools 10 99 i220, which I don't really recommend. It crimps just fine, but it leaves the lobe sticking out a lot. Maybe fine for under a car, but a nuisance for a compressed air hose, for example. The only reason I have it is Amazon had a crazy low price on it a few months ago.
At some point I'll probably pick up the Lisle 30800. It smooshes (technical term there) the ear down as it crimps it. It's already on my wish list.
Critic, is a tool needed for ear-less clamps like your Pic 2? Thanks for your clear and comprehensive answer.
At some point I'll probably pick up the Lisle 30800. It smooshes (technical term there) the ear down as it crimps it. It's already on my wish list.
Critic, is a tool needed for ear-less clamps like your Pic 2? Thanks for your clear and comprehensive answer.
Yep those work well. Ive had mine for well over 10 years with no problems, although theyre always greasy from the work.
Originally Posted by HangFire
Critic, is a tool needed for ear-less clamps like your Pic 2? Thanks for your clear and comprehensive answer.
Ah yes, I just noticed that I omitted the tool. Lisle 30500 is the correct tool for the style in Pic 2.
Needle-noise pliers can work but it is a hit/miss. The 30500 tool is well worth the cost.
Critic, is a tool needed for ear-less clamps like your Pic 2? Thanks for your clear and comprehensive answer.
Ah yes, I just noticed that I omitted the tool. Lisle 30500 is the correct tool for the style in Pic 2.
Needle-noise pliers can work but it is a hit/miss. The 30500 tool is well worth the cost.
Thank you very much Critic! I will order one of each so that way I don't ever have to worry about it again.
Originally Posted by qdeezie
Thank you very much Critic! I will order one of each so that way I don't ever have to worry about it again.
You're welcome.
Thank you very much Critic! I will order one of each so that way I don't ever have to worry about it again.
You're welcome.
Link please to these good, cheap CV axles.
Originally Posted by Trav
Link please to these good, cheap CV axles.
Agreed. As far as I know, they do not exist...
Link please to these good, cheap CV axles.
Agreed. As far as I know, they do not exist...
Haha, go ahead and pile on, guys.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Trav
Link please to these good, cheap CV axles.
Here for example is a recent install:
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-cv-axle/402159_0_0_1277_78656
Although I have used Cardone and others from Amazon .......always Prime, new, not rebuilt .............from unremarkable, off shore I'm sure, sources.
Heresy you say? I'm sure you will. But CV axles are not rocket science. Good milling techniques is not hard. Let your prejudices go.
That example is 1/10th the price of Honda OEM. Never had a problem with new no name or Duralast Gold axles. No core. With new axle nut always from everyone.
Even an Audi A4 2012 is only $145 which is on my menu. What is OEM on that?
Cost in time and parts to rebuild is not worth it. Many Hondas at least require inside boot to be removed to replace outside boot......................... and that is usually the culprit. Of course there are split boots, but no sane person would suggest that.
Link please to these good, cheap CV axles.
Here for example is a recent install:
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-cv-axle/402159_0_0_1277_78656
Although I have used Cardone and others from Amazon .......always Prime, new, not rebuilt .............from unremarkable, off shore I'm sure, sources.
Heresy you say? I'm sure you will. But CV axles are not rocket science. Good milling techniques is not hard. Let your prejudices go.
That example is 1/10th the price of Honda OEM. Never had a problem with new no name or Duralast Gold axles. No core. With new axle nut always from everyone.
Even an Audi A4 2012 is only $145 which is on my menu. What is OEM on that?
Cost in time and parts to rebuild is not worth it. Many Hondas at least require inside boot to be removed to replace outside boot......................... and that is usually the culprit. Of course there are split boots, but no sane person would suggest that.
Last edited:
Not something I will be using. Too many problems with these cheap CV axles, IIRC Critic went through a real fiasco with this cheap junk.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Trav
Not something I will be using. Too many problems with these cheap CV axles, IIRC Critic went through a real fiasco with this cheap junk.
Yes, I just went thru 3 different brands of CV axles (Cardone Select, GSP and one other one) on a Rogue. They were either too long or delivered terrible vibrations during the test drive. I ended up buying some rebuilt axles from CVJ Axles.
Not something I will be using. Too many problems with these cheap CV axles, IIRC Critic went through a real fiasco with this cheap junk.
Yes, I just went thru 3 different brands of CV axles (Cardone Select, GSP and one other one) on a Rogue. They were either too long or delivered terrible vibrations during the test drive. I ended up buying some rebuilt axles from CVJ Axles.
That really is a serious problem when its someone else's car you are fixing, eating the labor every time one of these pieces of junk acts up is a killer especially when you have multiple failures like you had.
Napa and AA do offer shops some labor compensation but its still not worth it, Napa does it through a third party and that can be a real PITA..
Napa and AA do offer shops some labor compensation but its still not worth it, Napa does it through a third party and that can be a real PITA..
- Status
Similar threads
