Only issue I ran into having a valve is the few times on travel and need a shop to do my oil changes, they still spin the valve off even when I tell them not too. Then they crush the fiber gasket the valve comes with when they spin it back on.
Oil drain valves like Fumoto and EZ
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It always amazes me that when these valves come up for discussion all of the potential problems are shown and the worst case scenarios, No one ever states how many problems there have been with leaky gaskets on the plugs, or the plugs not tightened properly, or stripped threads and pans lost from hitting objects on the road.. these Fumoto valves are build really really solid, I drove over a cement barrier once and shaved the nipple off of one and it still worked for years without a leak. After 20 years of usage I swear by them. As to oil left in after a drain,, how many shops pull the plug wait until the flow slows to a trickle and put the plug back in and refill, how much is still in the pan then???? It may take a while to feel comfortable with the valve on there but they really are reliable and very nice for changing the oil.,.
Originally Posted by Spector
It always amazes me that when these valves come up for discussion all of the potential problems are shown and the worst case scenarios, No one ever states how many problems there have been with leaky gaskets on the plugs, or the plugs not tightened properly, or stripped threads and pans lost from hitting objects on the road.. these Fumoto valves are build really really solid, I drove over a cement barrier once and shaved the nipple off of one and it still worked for years without a leak. After 20 years of usage I swear by them. As to oil left in after a drain,, how many shops pull the plug wait until the flow slows to a trickle and put the plug back in and refill, how much is still in the pan then???? It may take a while to feel comfortable with the valve on there but they really are reliable and very nice for changing the oil.,.
We have 9 in the family and not one has had an issue except the 1 shortly after install. I know because I change their oil among other maintenance/repairs. Mine that leaked (dripped slightly occasionally) and they warrantied it for me and it has been fine since. Still using it currently and it has been opened and closed tons of times and see lots of road time. I completely agree.
It always amazes me that when these valves come up for discussion all of the potential problems are shown and the worst case scenarios, No one ever states how many problems there have been with leaky gaskets on the plugs, or the plugs not tightened properly, or stripped threads and pans lost from hitting objects on the road.. these Fumoto valves are build really really solid, I drove over a cement barrier once and shaved the nipple off of one and it still worked for years without a leak. After 20 years of usage I swear by them. As to oil left in after a drain,, how many shops pull the plug wait until the flow slows to a trickle and put the plug back in and refill, how much is still in the pan then???? It may take a while to feel comfortable with the valve on there but they really are reliable and very nice for changing the oil.,.
We have 9 in the family and not one has had an issue except the 1 shortly after install. I know because I change their oil among other maintenance/repairs. Mine that leaked (dripped slightly occasionally) and they warrantied it for me and it has been fine since. Still using it currently and it has been opened and closed tons of times and see lots of road time. I completely agree.
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I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is good, it's all brass with stainless ball so you are paying for the metal and the quality manufacturing so it stands the test of time IMO. They do have sales from time to time but it's not a regular occurrence. (I get their e-mails)
I have this from the Journey but it fits the Caravan too... https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106n.html
(Any Chrysler thread wise)
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is good, it's all brass with stainless ball so you are paying for the metal and the quality manufacturing so it stands the test of time IMO. They do have sales from time to time but it's not a regular occurrence. (I get their e-mails)
I have this from the Journey but it fits the Caravan too... https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106n.html
(Any Chrysler thread wise)
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Thanks Stevie, I was thinking of getting the one with a short nipple I think it was F106S.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is about right. I think they used to give a discount if you bought two or more at one time. I can't recall if they had a black Friday sale for 10% off.
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is about right. I think they used to give a discount if you bought two or more at one time. I can't recall if they had a black Friday sale for 10% off.
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Originally Posted by JC1
Originally Posted by KrisZ
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is about right. I think they used to give a discount if you bought two or more at one time. I can't recall if they had a black Friday sale for 10% off.
ThanksðŸ‘
Originally Posted by KrisZ
I'm thinking of perhaps getting one for my minivan. Is around $25 a good price for one, or do they go on sale from time to time? I'm not in a hurry as I just did an OC on it.
$25 is about right. I think they used to give a discount if you bought two or more at one time. I can't recall if they had a black Friday sale for 10% off.
ThanksðŸ‘
Well, am I lucky or what? I just came across this deal on Amazon. F106S with the clip for $18.21, so I ordered one.
Fumoto F106S
Fumoto F106S
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The short nipple is ok but I find the hose can slip off if you re-use the hose for draining every time because there isn't enough area that the hose goes over for it to want to stay securely. Especially if the oil is hot. I put a short nipple on my MIL's CRV because of confined room in her case. Not a big deal but if you want to use with the hose and having it fall off occasionally isn't a big deal then go for it.
I also like the longer nipple because I buy Silicone push on plugs on E-Bay to go on the end to keep them road gunk free for oil sampling.
I also like the longer nipple because I buy Silicone push on plugs on E-Bay to go on the end to keep them road gunk free for oil sampling.
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It should not be a problem for me as I don't draw samples and most likely will not use a hose for draining, unless it happens to be windy outside. I figured for $18 I can give it a shot.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
It should not be a problem for me as I don't draw samples and most likely will not use a hose for draining, unless it happens to be windy outside. I figured for $18 I can give it a shot.
For sure, can't beat that price. The last one I ordered for someone who couldn't wait for the sale or wait until I could get it from my brother if I shipped it there, cost us $50 CDN with import charges and exchange.
It should not be a problem for me as I don't draw samples and most likely will not use a hose for draining, unless it happens to be windy outside. I figured for $18 I can give it a shot.
For sure, can't beat that price. The last one I ordered for someone who couldn't wait for the sale or wait until I could get it from my brother if I shipped it there, cost us $50 CDN with import charges and exchange.
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Originally Posted by redbone3
I prefer using an oil extractor. One extractor is good for as many vehicles as you service, you don't have to crawl under the vehicle, you don't have to worry about it leaking, you don't have to worry about stripping the threads on the oil plug.
I'd also like to use an extractor but that's just 1 extra tool I have to clean and carry around lol.
I just got a fumoto installed on my subaru. Not sure what's the deal but there's a slow leak from the threads. Not enough to drip but enough to coat the valve. Dealer installed(factory 14mm kept getting stripped), not sure if it's overtightned or they used the wrong washer.
I prefer using an oil extractor. One extractor is good for as many vehicles as you service, you don't have to crawl under the vehicle, you don't have to worry about it leaking, you don't have to worry about stripping the threads on the oil plug.
I'd also like to use an extractor but that's just 1 extra tool I have to clean and carry around lol.
I just got a fumoto installed on my subaru. Not sure what's the deal but there's a slow leak from the threads. Not enough to drip but enough to coat the valve. Dealer installed(factory 14mm kept getting stripped), not sure if it's overtightned or they used the wrong washer.
I've not had one leaking from the threads so it has to be one of the following:
1) Not tight enough. (The blue washer allows you to snug it down good in the position you want it oriented in)
2) Blue washer that comes with the valve wasn't installed, or another washer was used instead (which won't work in most cases, eg: Nylon or aluminum/copper crush washers)
3) Threads on the valve aren't cut properly or the threads on the oil pan have a problem preventing it from mating together properly and allowing it to seal when tightened.
If the threads are a problem you can take it out and put some teflon tape on a couple of threads of the valve so that when it's screwed into your oil pan the teflon is only on the threads and not in the oil pan itself where the threads are exposed inside the pan to oil. Just fold the teflon tape in half and apply to the 2 or 3 threads further back and not at the beginning of the threads. Put the blue washer on first though.
1) Not tight enough. (The blue washer allows you to snug it down good in the position you want it oriented in)
2) Blue washer that comes with the valve wasn't installed, or another washer was used instead (which won't work in most cases, eg: Nylon or aluminum/copper crush washers)
3) Threads on the valve aren't cut properly or the threads on the oil pan have a problem preventing it from mating together properly and allowing it to seal when tightened.
If the threads are a problem you can take it out and put some teflon tape on a couple of threads of the valve so that when it's screwed into your oil pan the teflon is only on the threads and not in the oil pan itself where the threads are exposed inside the pan to oil. Just fold the teflon tape in half and apply to the 2 or 3 threads further back and not at the beginning of the threads. Put the blue washer on first though.
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When I did my last oil change, I decided to find a new way to make a mess (well, an old chestnut I dusted off) by spilling washer fluid everywhere. No oil anywhere, at least, thanks to the Fumoto, me being cautious to not slam dunk the filter, and not overfilling my recycling receptacle.
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