M1 0w40

[Pinoak]

So I put M1 0w40 in a Toyota 1.5. I wanted to test out some microgreen oil filters and see how long I can go with 1 oil change. Thought I'd just go 15k on each filter if everything looks good after a 10k mile sample and leave the oil in for as long as it samples good.
If I can get 25k or so out of it I'll just keep doing the same oci minus uoas for as long as it lives.
A couple friends have pitched a fit because they don't think 0w40 has any business being in this little engine.
Anyway the oil cap calls for 5w30 so I didn't think it would really be a big difference and I wanted to use a robust oil to do the experiment with.
They think a w20 is what it should have in it
Just getting some input on here is all. Thanks

 

[CharBaby]

What model & year Toyota are you using?

I'm sure that the 0W40 will work fine in your climate of DFW. However, I have seen your area get cold spells and you may in fact want to go back to 5W30 during that time, or plan accordingly. This whole test you're doing is quite subjective. Interesting but subjective.

It could take you years to find out WHAT?
That your engine can go 15K + miles per OCI?
Or that you shouldn't have?
How many miles per year does this car compile?
I may be dead by the time you get any results!

Just kidding/having a little fun & good luck.

CB

 

[Bjornviken]

i dont think oil will hold up that long. And i would't run a full saps oil that long.Ã¥

 

[Mainia]

Mobil1 AFE or Mobil 1 Extended would be a better choice to push. Why........because it has been formulated for that purpose.

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
What model & year Toyota are you using?

I'm sure that the 0W40 will work fine in your climate of DFW. However, I have seen your area get cold spells and you may in fact want to go back to 5W30 during that time, or plan accordingly. This whole test you're doing is quite subjective. Interesting but subjective.

It could take you years to find out WHAT?
That your engine can go 15K + miles per OCI?
Or that you shouldn't have?
How many miles per year does this car compile?
I may be dead by the time you get any results!

Just kidding/having a little fun & good luck.

CB

Lol, I hope your not dead anytime soon friend.
I can put 50k on a vehicle in a year pretty easily.
Work necessitates that.
Why? just to see I guess really.
Thanks for your reply

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
What model & year Toyota are you using?

I'm sure that the 0W40 will work fine in your climate of DFW. However, I have seen your area get cold spells and you may in fact want to go back to 5W30 during that time, or plan accordingly. This whole test you're doing is quite subjective. Interesting but subjective.

It could take you years to find out WHAT?
That your engine can go 15K + miles per OCI?
Or that you shouldn't have?
How many miles per year does this car compile?
I may be dead by the time you get any results!

Just kidding/having a little fun & good luck.

CB

Lol, I hope your not dead anytime soon friend.
I can put 50k on a vehicle in a year pretty easily.
Work necessitates that.
Why? just to see I guess really.
Thanks for your reply
Originally Posted by Mainia
Mobil1 AFE or Mobil 1 Extended would be a better choice to push. Why........because it has been formulated for that purpose.

Good to know, thanks.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
What model & year Toyota are you using?
I'm sure that the 0W40 will work fine in your climate of DFW. However, I have seen your area get cold spells and you may in fact want to go back to 5W30 during that time, or plan accordingly. This whole test you're doing is quite subjective. Interesting but subjective.
...
CB

I'm not sure what you're getting at here...as far as cold starts, far colder than anybody is likely to see in TX, 0W40 will outperform 5W30 by definition. 0WXX is tested for CCS at -35C and MRV at -40C while 5WXX is tested to very similar viscosity specs at -30C and -35C, respectively.
The 0W40 will be thicker at operating temps, but that is true in warm or cold weather.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

That vvti aint gonna like that. My yaris wanted something between a 20 and a 30 MAX.
BUT,
reading your putting 50k on a year maybe you do a lot of highway. That yamaha1.5L + 70MPH highway may be OK with a A3 40 grade oil ( MB 229.5 0w40 is near a thick 30 - or it will be in a month ). Most thing I would be interested in is how soggy the engine gets around town with the thick oil.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi

I'm not sure what you're getting at here...as far as cold starts, far colder than anybody is likely to see in TX, 0W40 will outperform 5W30 by definition.

......
The 0W40 will be thicker at operating temps, but that is true in warm or cold weather.


I think he may be concernd about real world starting temperatures in Tx.
The M1 FS 0W40 is likely to be 30-50 cSt MORE VISCOUS than say a PP 5w30 at 40 - 60 degrees F. That's a difference the engine will notice. But with 50k miles driving a year - and assuming a lot of highway miles - his overall MPG shouldnt take a hit. I;m more worried about the VVTi retarding the intake cam too much too soon with the thicker oil. I found with real world trials in my cars, you can tailor the cam phasing with the oil noticably. I had no issue with the Honda FIT 1.5L - it didn't have VVT - its got VTEC a whole different animal

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by Bjornviken
i dont think oil will hold up that long. And i would't run a full saps oil that long.Ã¥

I really don't have a wide understanding of oil formulations and their uses and all. I just thought that it was more robust and that the European cars call for this type of oil and seeing how they extend their ocis out much further over there I thought it would maybe be a good fit for it.
Can you educate a little further on that?
Thanks

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
That vvti aint gonna like that. My yaris wanted something between a 20 and a 30 MAX.
BUT,
reading your putting 50k on a year maybe you do a lot of highway. That yamaha1.5L + 70MPH highway may be OK with a A3 40 grade oil ( MB 229.5 0w40 is near a thick 30 - or it will be in a month ). Most thing I would be interested in is how soggy the engine gets around town with the thick oil.

Ive already put a few k on the oil or so and honestly I don't notice a difference. Just got back from a 7 hour drive yesterday and the gas mileage was good like usual.

 

[KrisZ]

I installed M1 0w40 in my Mazda 3 2.0L about 1500 miles ago, the cap calls for 5w20 and honestly I can't tell much of a difference either. The hot idle may be a bit quieter, but it also may be my placebo. Gas mileage seems to be about the same.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Pinoak

Ive already put a few k on the oil or so and honestly I don't notice a difference. Just got back from a 7 hour drive yesterday and the gas mileage was good like usual.
Good to know. MIght throw it in the wife's Subaru this spring and see what happens

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
Originally Posted by Char Baby
What model & year Toyota are you using?

I'm sure that the 0W40 will work fine in your climate of DFW. However, I have seen your area get cold spells and you may in fact want to go back to 5W30 during that time, or plan accordingly. This whole test you're doing is quite subjective. Interesting but subjective.

It could take you years to find out WHAT?
That your engine can go 15K + miles per OCI?
Or that you shouldn't have?
How many miles per year does this car compile?
I may be dead by the time you get any results!

Just kidding/having a little fun & good luck.

CB

Lol, I hope your not dead anytime soon friend.
I can put 50k on a vehicle in a year pretty easily.
Work necessitates that.
Why? just to see I guess really.
Thanks for your reply


Thank you!

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Good to know. MIght throw it in the wife's Subaru this spring and see what happens

I am also wanting to run 0W40 in my Subaru and the T&C to quiet things down a bit.

 

[Dorian]

I ran 0W40 M1 in my old 5S-FE and 1ZZ-FE and they run great with it. The NR and NZ 1.5 engines are supposedly a little hard on oil. I don't think it will be an issue since they use that weight of oil overseas. The VVTi will activate at certain particular predetermined points regardless of oil weight but more dependent on oil pressure. I am interested in running this oil in our 2AR non-hybrid car to see how the higher zinc and phosphorus levels react with the start up noise.

 

[burla]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
So I put M1 0w40 in a Toyota 1.5. I wanted to test out some microgreen oil filters and see how long I can go with 1 oil change. Thought I'd just go 15k on each filter if everything looks good after a 10k mile sample and leave the oil in for as long as it samples good.
If I can get 25k or so out of it I'll just keep doing the same oci minus uoas for as long as it lives.
A couple friends have pitched a fit because they don't think 0w40 has any business being in this little engine.
Anyway the oil cap calls for 5w30 so I didn't think it would really be a big difference and I wanted to use a robust oil to do the experiment with.
They think a w20 is what it should have in it
Just getting some input on here is all. Thanks


I use Royal Purple filters, and I can w/o any doubt they can hit whatever oci your oil can hit. I tested them over 5 years myself cutting them open, even at a 2 year oci the media and soft subtle and pliable, like new. I would think most spun micro glass can do the same. And I think m1 0w40 is a super class oil, built right on the edge of being 30 weight, so after 500 miles likely that oil will be a 5w30, but what I don't understand is the desire to go 25k miles. You getting TAN level on that uoa? Just because you can do something, or someone else does it, doesn't make it a good idea. Develop a better strategy, shorten up the time you put a hook on your oci, take care of your equipment. I was just reading yesterday on machinelube, the number one cause of engine failure is poor lubrication. It takes no time for metal to react poorly in an acidic environment.

 

[burla]

Instead of running 25k miles, maybe shorten it by 5k miles and don't do a filter swap, run a spun microglass. Changing a filter 1/2 though on an oil with an application that doesn't hold a lot of oil may not be wise long term. I do like the strategy of using a 0w40 though, especially any close to 12.5 cSt. Basically those are thirty weight due to the shear you will be getting. Even though PUP cSt is a little higher, I've seen that shear fairly well and quick as well. High detergency and super high moly paired with GtL basestock, another decent choice for what you are doing.

I know some labs are famous for saying, if you have 1 tbn then you are good to go. But, this study suggests maybe that is running an oil too long. Link, tbn versus tan. I understand that is diesel, but with ethanol and different quality gas the same considerations should be thought of with gas. At a minimum, if you still are doing the 25k change, get TAN level.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
That vvti aint gonna like that. My yaris wanted something between a 20 and a 30 MAX.
BUT,
reading your putting 50k on a year maybe you do a lot of highway. That yamaha1.5L + 70MPH highway may be OK with a A3 40 grade oil ( MB 229.5 0w40 is near a thick 30 - or it will be in a month ). Most thing I would be interested in is how soggy the engine gets around town with the thick oil.

Ive already put a few k on the oil or so and honestly I don't notice a difference. Just got back from a 7 hour drive yesterday and the gas mileage was good like usual.



Don't worry his opinions tend to be from left field. It should last 15K OCI given your driving habits the only way to know for sure is via UOA.

 

[oghl]

Many people also bug me about using 0W40 (or 5w30 or 15W40) in one of my cars that calls for 0W20. If it's a 1.5L Toyota, most likely it's not a high stress engine anyway (high RPM, high lift, high power). You will give up a slight, I would bet imperceptible amount of fuel mileage. So no worries at all about using this oil.

As for the oil filter, you really won't need any special filters at all. Just get one that filters down to the smallest # of microns on the shelf. Typically these are the more expensive M1, Fram, Wix, Purolator, etc, the higher end of their product line. I have no knowledge of Microgreen, but it may just work fine also.

M1 0w40 is a long life oil. If you put 50k a year on the car, you drive a lot and I bet at highway speeds a lot of the time. I would consider using operation time rather than mileage to determine when to change oil. I have 7 vehicles on various 0W40 oil that's the same or similar to your oil choice, and I change them at 300 hours or slightly more for the street vehicles. I am actually comfortable extending my time to 500 hours, but it already takes a year or more to collect the 300 hours. It's easier for me to just do them all at the same time also.

50k miles per year, M1 0w40 even at 25k change interval, you are in the running for reaching 1 million miles

If you do want to extend to 25k mile, spend a little money on an oil analysis to make sure the oil is still serviceable, and that contamination and corrosion are kept in check. That's the cost of one oil change, and you will be able to do one or two less oil changes every year. So the economy argument is certainly there.