So this car I'm about to buy hasn't been purchased yet. I can still cut and run if I want to. It's a 1998 Olds 88. Mechanic checked it out, everything is good but the struts need replaced soon and they are the originals. The mounts rattle when you go over snow or bumpy surfaces. Everything else in this car is solid with 146,000 miles on this V6 3800. Guy is asking 2900.00, after taxes, title,etc.. I'm at 3400.00 Shocks for parts alone would be 700-800 dollars. The dealer isn't going to do that because there is no money in it for him. He couldn't sell that car for 3900.00. So given what I've explained, do you think it's a bad idea to purchase it and have the struts done on my own as long as it's a solid running car? My thought is any car could need them even if it's a newer model car. But just uncertain and needed an opinion.
Opinion Needed / 1998 Olds 88
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$3400 for a 20 year old, no thank you.
My BIL had a '96 Olds 88. And although it was an OK car(OK is the key word), it still had it's issues such as front wheel bearings, exhaust system, AC and many of these cars still had their share of intake manifold &/or head gasket issues.
Go to FL or TX and find a good Camry 4 cyl 2003-04. This is the '02-'06 Camry however the '03 & '04 are the BEST. Everyone that I know(and I know many) with these 4 cyl Camry's are still driving them and NO RUST yet here in the NE
Go to FL or TX and find a good Camry 4 cyl 2003-04. This is the '02-'06 Camry however the '03 & '04 are the BEST. Everyone that I know(and I know many) with these 4 cyl Camry's are still driving them and NO RUST yet here in the NE
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I would not pay over $800. If it had only 30k or so but 146k? Not over 800-1000.
That same car here..it would take a special person to give me $750 for it.
With that kind of money you can get a more modern reliable car.
With that kind of money you can get a more modern reliable car.
Yes its way overpriced. Not quite as low as the others have said. Those sell for $1800-$2200 all day long here.
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WONDERFUL cars!! But at that mileage,if it's impeccably clean,$1500 out the door.
When I bought my showroom MINT fully loaded 87 Olds Toronado Trofeo in 97 with 120,000 miles on it,I paid $1500 cash for it.
When I bought my showroom MINT fully loaded 87 Olds Toronado Trofeo in 97 with 120,000 miles on it,I paid $1500 cash for it.
Even in 2009 that would probably be overpriced. If it needs shocks I wouldn't pay over $500.
There's plenty of money in it for him at that price yeesh.
There's plenty of money in it for him at that price yeesh.
Great Vehicles but the mark-up is based on our nostalgia for them; we remember them as great so they ask that. In reality every piece of plastic and rubber is 20 years old; it *will* require upkeep, and some parts may start getting hard to find depending on the trim level - some of those had rather fancy HVAC systems and other doodads.
I agree with the post above about considering a camry - something that has naturally long-lasting DNA. The 3800 is not the only component in that car which needs to run right to drive.
If they'd reduce the price to 1500 (considering it needs struts) it would be more reasonable.
I agree with the post above about considering a camry - something that has naturally long-lasting DNA. The 3800 is not the only component in that car which needs to run right to drive.
If they'd reduce the price to 1500 (considering it needs struts) it would be more reasonable.
Originally Posted by diyjake
$3400 for a 20 year old, no thank you.
I wouldn't pay that either. $1K tops.
$3400 for a 20 year old, no thank you.
I wouldn't pay that either. $1K tops.
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Go to cargurus.com and the other similar sites and start doing comparison shopping . Find one interesting , check KBB.com & NADA.com .
Try to take all emotion out of this . It is just business .
If you do get a GM 3.8l , check if the notorious plastic coolant elbows have been replaced with metal elbows .
Try to take all emotion out of this . It is just business .
If you do get a GM 3.8l , check if the notorious plastic coolant elbows have been replaced with metal elbows .
At most, dealer retail for Excellent condition, which this isn't, is $2k according to Edmunds.com used car.
I put every option on the car, the top trim level and outstanding condition, which obviously this isn't since it needs struts.
If you really want this car, $2k is all the money.
Either I missed it, or you don't say what sort of dealer this is.
If this is a buy here - pay here dealer, they ask for insane money because most shoppers are looking for someone to tote-the-note. They usually get enough money in the down payment to cover their costs in the car. Your payments are their profits. Their target customer only cares that they need to get $1000 down and $67/week for 52 weeks or whatever the numbers are. They don't care that they are spending about $4500 for a $2k car.
If this is a new car dealership, this is an auction car and they would be foolish not to jump at the first $1500 that walks in the door asking to buy.
I put every option on the car, the top trim level and outstanding condition, which obviously this isn't since it needs struts.
If you really want this car, $2k is all the money.
Either I missed it, or you don't say what sort of dealer this is.
If this is a buy here - pay here dealer, they ask for insane money because most shoppers are looking for someone to tote-the-note. They usually get enough money in the down payment to cover their costs in the car. Your payments are their profits. Their target customer only cares that they need to get $1000 down and $67/week for 52 weeks or whatever the numbers are. They don't care that they are spending about $4500 for a $2k car.
If this is a new car dealership, this is an auction car and they would be foolish not to jump at the first $1500 that walks in the door asking to buy.
Why would you want to buy a car that isn't manufactured any longer? Just a car with questionable maintainability going into the future.
This car was produced during the wide span of years that GM FWD's were all poorly engineered garbage. It was unreliable from day one-to purchase one for anything much over scrap value 20 years later is a bad idea. Here are just a few reasons..
1) Almost any FWD V-6 has several items that are difficult to maintain due to the engine being mounted 'sideways'. This engine will need a lot of unscheduled maintenance that will be difficult due to it's lateral mounting.
2) The AC does not work. If it does, it will fail soon. Don't fall for the 'it just needs to be charged' pitch. I guess there is a small chance that the system was properly repaired.
3) If it has power windows, ALL of the window motors will fail at some point.
4) Most GM cars that were produced during the infancy stages of DEXTRON coolant integration have had traditional 'green' mixed it and will have issues due to this.
5) Unless it was a southern car or only driven in the nice weather where you live, it probably has significant rust damage is places that are not always easy to find. Fuel/brake lines are a good example.
I purchased a 1995 Toyota Corolla with 150K in 2007 (so it was 12 years old at the time) for $2200. I drove it until 2013, racking up over 330K doing nothing but routine maintenance. It would not pass inspection at this point due to a rust hole in the floorboard, however it drove down the road just fine. Given the fact that I NEVER (literally) washed it and drove it in Upstate NY winters this was to be expected. I was leaving for overseas work at the time inspection was due, so I just gave it to a friend. The AC still blew cold, heat was hot, no check engine lights, etc.
Sorry if this message comes across as condescending, it is just the harsh reality of GM FWD's from the late 80's to the mid 2000's. I truly don't want you to make this purchase, you will regret it.
1) Almost any FWD V-6 has several items that are difficult to maintain due to the engine being mounted 'sideways'. This engine will need a lot of unscheduled maintenance that will be difficult due to it's lateral mounting.
2) The AC does not work. If it does, it will fail soon. Don't fall for the 'it just needs to be charged' pitch. I guess there is a small chance that the system was properly repaired.
3) If it has power windows, ALL of the window motors will fail at some point.
4) Most GM cars that were produced during the infancy stages of DEXTRON coolant integration have had traditional 'green' mixed it and will have issues due to this.
5) Unless it was a southern car or only driven in the nice weather where you live, it probably has significant rust damage is places that are not always easy to find. Fuel/brake lines are a good example.
I purchased a 1995 Toyota Corolla with 150K in 2007 (so it was 12 years old at the time) for $2200. I drove it until 2013, racking up over 330K doing nothing but routine maintenance. It would not pass inspection at this point due to a rust hole in the floorboard, however it drove down the road just fine. Given the fact that I NEVER (literally) washed it and drove it in Upstate NY winters this was to be expected. I was leaving for overseas work at the time inspection was due, so I just gave it to a friend. The AC still blew cold, heat was hot, no check engine lights, etc.
Sorry if this message comes across as condescending, it is just the harsh reality of GM FWD's from the late 80's to the mid 2000's. I truly don't want you to make this purchase, you will regret it.
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I'd go on your local Craigslist, put $3400, 150K max miles, sedan in the search and see what else you can get.
RUN! That car is WAAAAAY overpriced, and nowhere near worth it. I wouldn't go higher than about $800 for that, especially considering the struts.
Heck, for the price you're talking about, you could FLY to Tucson and buy a nice 1998 Lincoln Continental or this 2003 Buick Regal LS and drive it home. Either way, you'd be getting a better, rust-free car, for far less.
Another option would be to show back up with $1000 cash and tell him take it or leave it, and be prepared to walk out with nothing.
Heck, for the price you're talking about, you could FLY to Tucson and buy a nice 1998 Lincoln Continental or this 2003 Buick Regal LS and drive it home. Either way, you'd be getting a better, rust-free car, for far less.
Another option would be to show back up with $1000 cash and tell him take it or leave it, and be prepared to walk out with nothing.
I remember my dad buying a new 86 Buick Riviera for $28k. After 5 years the Bucik dealer was offering $3500 for it and wouldn't budge when negotiating on a Park Ave. Nor were they discounting much on the new Buick. I forget how many miles on it, I think about 70k or so and in very good condition.
Five year old Honda Accords/Camrys were worth about 10k trade-in back then with the same miles. And cost about 18k new instead of $28k. From that point on he bought new Camrys every 5 years. When he traded in his first Camry after 5 years the salesman asked, "are you sure you're ok with 10k trade in value on the old Camry?" My dad said yes that's fine.
Five year old Honda Accords/Camrys were worth about 10k trade-in back then with the same miles. And cost about 18k new instead of $28k. From that point on he bought new Camrys every 5 years. When he traded in his first Camry after 5 years the salesman asked, "are you sure you're ok with 10k trade in value on the old Camry?" My dad said yes that's fine.
Originally Posted by SirTanon
RUN! That car is WAAAAAY overpriced, and nowhere near worth it. I wouldn't go higher than about $800 for that, especially considering the struts.
Heck, for the price you're talking about, you could FLY to Tucson and buy a nice 1998 Lincoln Continental or this 2003 Buick Regal LS and drive it home. Either way, you'd be getting a better, rust-free car, for far less.
Another option would be to show back up with $1000 cash and tell him take it or leave it, and be prepared to walk out with nothing.
Rust free, yes. Better? No way, Jose.
Travelling to buy a $2000 car? BITOG: Where everyone spares no expense with other people's money.
RUN! That car is WAAAAAY overpriced, and nowhere near worth it. I wouldn't go higher than about $800 for that, especially considering the struts.
Heck, for the price you're talking about, you could FLY to Tucson and buy a nice 1998 Lincoln Continental or this 2003 Buick Regal LS and drive it home. Either way, you'd be getting a better, rust-free car, for far less.
Another option would be to show back up with $1000 cash and tell him take it or leave it, and be prepared to walk out with nothing.
Rust free, yes. Better? No way, Jose.
Travelling to buy a $2000 car? BITOG: Where everyone spares no expense with other people's money.
My step son was desperate and had to buy something to get to work---quick. Think he paid $700 for an '01 leSabre. About 120K, nice 3.8, but blender doors didn't work. Think he overpaid. It was pretty clean looking.
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