Subaru and spark plug life...

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Are subaru motors harder on plugs than normal? They use iridium plugs rated for 100k miles like everyone else but the maintenance schedule says to replace at 60k miles.

I thought maybe this was just conservative engineering but reading the forums and seeing some youtube videos, it appears that some people do start observing spark plug issues between 60-70k miles that go away after replacing the plugs.

What is the story here?
 
Iridium spark plugs typically don't last 100k miles in a Subaru. The plugs get fouled over time either by oil blow-by or normal oil consumption. Be sure to use top tier gasoline. A catch can or air oil separator will also help prolong the life of your spark plugs.
 
Is this engine dependent? I would think there is a difference between the 2.5 4 and the 3.6 6. Or am I wrong?
 
Subarus use a waste spark or something like that, so the plugs are actually firing at least 2 times. From my understanding the coil essentially fires in pairs, and since the firing order is one piston is fully up and it's partner is fully down, both plugs fire at the same time.

I can't confirm that, but it's what I read on the webz. 60k is a good number, it's a good time to check if your spark plug tube gaskets are leaking, if you haven't already started having misfires from the leaks.
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The head gaskets only last 60k, so that dictates the spark plug interval since you have to take off everything to get at the head gaskets anyway. So you might as well replace the spark plugs at that time
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Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Subarus use a waste spark or something like that, so the plugs are actually firing at least 2 times. From my understanding the coil essentially fires in pairs, and since the firing order is one piston is fully up and it's partner is fully down, both plugs fire at the same time.

I can't confirm that, but it's what I read on the webz. 60k is a good number, it's a good time to check if your spark plug tube gaskets are leaking, if you haven't already started having misfires from the leaks.
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That sounds plausible. That gives me something to research. Thanks.
 
After doing some research the FB25 on my Forester is Coil-on-Plug. I believe this means it cannot be waste-spark but apparently the engines pre 2011 were waste-spark ignition setup. That still doesn't explain a 60k mile interval though because apparently the previous generations had a 30k mile plug interval.

This is baffling.
 
My old Sienna is a waste spark system and it has coil-on-plug. The difference is that there are only coils on half the plugs, the other three have a wire from one of the coils.
 
My 08 Legacy GT with the 2.5 Turbo engine was a real PITA to change plugs on, truth be told the back cylinder on the drivers side is still not changed because my arms and knuckles were so beat up by the other 3!!

Mine were very worn with large gaps but I bought the car used and it had 120k on it then, looked like they were OEM but who knows. I'm up to 160k miles now with NO headgasket issues or leaking plug tube gaskets
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Mine also has individual coil on plug ignition.
 
I owned an 07' WRX. My owners manual specified 60K for the WRX but only 30K for the non turbo Impreza's.

This is an old pic I took when I changed the plugs on my WRX at 62K. Galvanic corrosion was on the ignition coil bolts.



[Linked Image]
 
Some older N/A engines did use copper plugs. I had a 97 Outback, did the plugs at the 60k called for( these were iridium). They looked fine but I'd bought replacements. I cleaned the old plugs and they went back in at 120k, no problem. Ran them another 60k. My current Legacy calls for 30k, but does have iridium plugs. They looked fine when I did them at 30k, again, I'd already bought replacements. So new plugs at 60k. At 90k, I'll swap back again as these plugs are holding up fine. Just don't get me going about the N/A head gaskets on the ej series engines.
 
In 2016, I replaced the plugs in my Impreza, and the wife's Outback. Not as easy as an I4, but not terribly difficult, either.

You MUST replace them before the combustion-exposed spark plug threads are covered in so much carbon that they can't be unscrewed...
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Subarus use a waste spark or something like that, so the plugs are actually firing at least 2 times. From my understanding the coil essentially fires in pairs, and since the firing order is one piston is fully up and it's partner is fully down, both plugs fire at the same time.

I can't confirm that, but it's what I read on the webz. 60k is a good number, it's a good time to check if your spark plug tube gaskets are leaking, if you haven't already started having misfires from the leaks.
smile.gif


When I replaced a timing belt on a older Forester with the EJ253 and it was a waste-spark system, OEM spec was NGK or Champion conventional. I used Denso Platinum TT, I figured waste-spark systems would benefit from these even though it wasn't using precious metal on the ground strap.

GM was a big proponent of waste-spark ignition, Mitsubishi/Hyundai and surprisingly Toyota was using also using it.
 
For my H4 non turbo engine, I replaced the four factory OEM NGK spark plugs Subaru p/n 22401AA65A or FRP5AP-11 with the identical plugs at 125k. These NGK platinum tips are rated at 90K. The tips on two of them eroded from .043 gap to .071 gap. The factory manual recommends 60k intervals and based on my findings, I would change no later than 90k for my application the next time. The odd thing is there were no check engine lights or signs of misfiring or significant loss of mpg. I'm usually around 25mpg with mixed driving or 27mpg in the summer.

60k may not be bad advice because the tube seals also tend to harden up and let oil traces inside and could cause shorts from the ceramic insulator to the boot. Estimated time to replace plugs was about 1.5 hours or less if I rushed but you just need to have the right combination of extensions and patience to do the job.
 
I think it's kind of funny that just because the factory "recommends" .xxx" plug gap that all cars are set exactly at that when they roll off the production line. I can pretty much guarantee you that the factory does the exact same thing that people that aren't overly anal on things that don't matter do... they unbox them and screw them into the engine. Done.

So you can't say "they opened up .028" over 90k" or whatever unless you were personally the one that measured them new and then when they were changed. I promise you that 50,000+ volts cares not about a couple thousandths difference.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I think it's kind of funny that just because the factory "recommends" .xxx" plug gap that all cars are set exactly at that when they roll off the production line. I can pretty much guarantee you that the factory does the exact same thing that people that aren't overly anal on things that don't matter do... they unbox them and screw them into the engine. Done.

So you can't say "they opened up .028" over 90k" or whatever unless you were personally the one that measured them new and then when they were changed. I promise you that 50,000+ volts cares not about a couple thousandths difference.


I can say they opened up to .028 for the worst one while the other were .052, .045., and .070. The fine wire style center electrode under visual inspection had two where the shape was an eroded blob. The other two still had reminisce of the step down tip shape. With the four brand new ones that were purchased and well within .041 +/-.002, I have confidence that the factory ones also were at that permissible recommended range.

I cannot decide how other people install their plugs but I will continue to measure mine and compare to specs and for the hundreds that I have measured, all were within vehicle recommended specs out of the box. The extra 5 seconds it takes gives me a measurable data point of what went into my engine.
 
CCS, you're likely the exception, and why I made the point. Only a few measure before they put them in; I don't know for certain that the vehicle manufacturer does but at the speeds of production it doesn't make sense that they would. As long as you have a sharp edge on the tip and the ground strap, and enough voltage to jump the gap, there should not be any really noticeable difference in performance.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
CCS, you're likely the exception, and why I made the point. Only a few measure before they put them in; I don't know for certain that the vehicle manufacturer does but at the speeds of production it doesn't make sense that they would. As long as you have a sharp edge on the tip and the ground strap, and enough voltage to jump the gap, there should not be any really noticeable difference in performance.


I will agree with your statement that 100% gap check at plant doesn't make sense but probably disagree with you that automotive assy has more requirements than what the outside world knows about. Maybe a new posted thread should be created vs. hijacking this thread. Previously, I was a process mfg engineer where our company designs products like brake transducers, occupant weight sensors, heavy duty fluid pressure sensors as part of the portfolio for the big Asian and European vehicles. Their necessary demands and requirements upon us goes into the demands we have with our car makes.

In this example, what are the top three topics about plugs generally discussed? Gap, torque, brand??? So if you were part of the Subaru engine assy team and plug installation was under your ownership...gap would be listed as a key characteristic. There is a pretty tight tolerance for this spec so doubt if a precursor check is used. That means by definition this aspect must be checked more than just shift start or time check vs. output because now your into 5 or even 6 sigma quality level in which the plant's goal is striving for. Let's say realistically
I am familiar with all the checks and balances that went into mfg of sensors and all the requested automation that goes along with it. For spark plug gap, that measurement can be made a mile away at way faster than engine plant assy thruput speed. I know these plugs are purchased in bulk trays and not individually like we buy them and staged where the gap is exposed and correctly orientated so a vision camera inspects/rejects thus 100% inspection before presenting to technician or even a pick and place robot arm staging queue that will zips them into the engine.

So to get back on track for OP topic, I checked my notes and made a slight err in that I did replace the plugs earlier along with all the timing and original roller hardware at 95K because factory recommended age exceeded well before mileage. So for my application and my findings suggests that yes...my model is hard on spark plugs.
 
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