Originally Posted by dnewton3
First
to this website!
I will confess I'm going to be a bit harsh on your UOAs here; sorry to be so blunt to a new member, but there's stuff going on here that needs addressing.
I see nothing that indicates how many miles these samples were run; I will presume they were run a "normal" distance (with the IOLM; perhaps 7-10k miles?).
Dmax engines generally run extremely well on any decent API spec'd HDEO. There is no need (zero, none, nada) for the Lucas; ditch it.
What concerns me is the elevated Al; way more than normal levels, and it's repeating in the UOAs.
Also, the K is too high. I have no idea if K is an additive in the Lucas; if that's the source then it's yet another reason to stop using it. Or, you may have a coolant leak that's seeping into the cylinders and getting at the Al pistons. I cannot assure you of that, but it's a plausible explanation.
Dmax engines typically turn in some of the very best UOAs for light duty diesel engines. I recommend you stop the Lucas, use any decent dino 15w-40 HDEO, run another few UOAs and see if things settle down. If the K drops out and the Al drops down, then you're fine. If not, then you've got a coolant leak and it needs to be dealt with.
Also, get rid of that giant oil filter; there's nothing wrong whatsoever with the stock oil filter. Many a Dmax have turned in excellent UOAs (better than yours) with the stock type filters. I will confess I don't know specific details about that Cat filter, but two things scream out at me:
https://karenstransport.com/
https://karenstransport.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fk-trans-f1-and-filter-for-duramax-engines
1) there is no BP valve in the filter; THAT IS A VERY BAD THING AS THE OEM APPLICATION REQUIRES A BP VALVE IN THE FILTER BECAUSE IT DOES NOT HAVE ONE IN THE BLOCK. All the typical filter makers (Wix, Fram, Baldwin, etc) clearly show approximately a 15psi delta for the internal filter BP valve in the stock Dmax application. The CAT filter 1R-1807 has no BP in it! (nor does any of the other brand equivalent filters for the cross ref to that CAT filter). Filters that have no BP valve in them do so because the engine makers include a BP relive in the block. But the Dmax does not have one, so it needs one in the filter.
2) these CAT filters are stupid expensive; you pay a LOT more for those oil filters and they will NOT provide any significant reduction in wear, despite all the hype they claim ($17 for a filter ????; you can pay 1/2 that and get excellent "normal" filtration)
It is quite possible that between the oil filter not having a BP valve in it, and the super thick oil, you're starving the engine of oil upon start up until that thick syrup you call "oil" finally gets warm.
The BP filter you're about to add isn't going to help in the way you think either. BP filters are tools to greatly extend the OCIs, but ONLY when you understand what they can and cannot do. Your engine has high Al wear; you need to first fix that issue before trying to compound issues with longer OCIs.
This is a great cautionary tale of why NOT to attempt to out-think the OEMs.
Do as you see fit, but it's my opinion you're on the wrong track.
And THAT is as informed an opinion as you are going to find on this site or any other. It's a great engine (I owned one and have followed the Duramax UOAs on this site for years) and it's highly likely that your actions are killing it. At a minimum, your oil management regime is doing absolutely no good.