Taking care of turbo GDI Engine

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
74
Location
PNW
I got Kia Stinger last week. It has been a wonderful car. Since it has got a GDI engine and tubos, I was little hesitant to buy it. But I finally went for it.

1. Anyone knows about carbon build on Hyundai's 3.3 Lamda II turbo engines?
2. Intake valve cleaner from CRC, should I use it and how often?
3. Effect of oil viscosity (5w30 vs 10w30)?
4. Catch can?

I don't baby my car much. I rev it a lot.
 
Last edited:
Concerning the CRC intake valve cleaner, depends upon exactly how you plan to apply it and how your vehicle is configured.
I tried to spray it in past the MAF sensor, but the configuration of my vehicle made the cleaner splash back on the sensor...there was a right angle turn in the air path and I guess hooking the spray tube through that didn't work. My car ran atrociously bad until I cleaned the MAF sensor, it was a PITA to get the sensor out due to it being crammed up against the left side of the engine compartment with the screws facing left...luckily I had some teeny screwdrivers.
I ended up buying a special tool from Subaru for introducing their intake valve cleaner and carbon remover through a vacuum tube, this works well but I'm not completely sure why there are two different products.
Trav is an experienced mechanic on this site and warned me about using such cleaners too much...I last ran one maybe 6 months ago and will probably wait at least another year before running another one.

I would also recommend using a dexos2, dexos1 Gen 2, and/or SN Plus oil. Some DIT engines have had trouble with LSPI and those oil standards were developed to help keep it from occurring...my car was actually recalled for LSPI a while ago and there were some vehicles involved that got new engines. I had already learned about LSPI and was running a M1 oil with a formulation that helped mitigate that problem before the new standards had gone "live".
Car makers have been tweaking the ECU programs to help limit LSPI, but I still feel a lot better running an oil that also quashes it.

Enjoy that Stinger...I'm sure it flies!

EDIT - I may have talked about LSPI and oil already in another thread you started, sorry for any repetition!
 
Congrats! My vote is for a dexos1 Gen2 5W30. But you have many choices (i believe) in the manual. Any one of those should work nicely. 5w vs 10w isn't an issue in NY. They are both 30s at operating temps. The 3.3T is fairly new so i haven't read of any deposit issues. I had a catch can on a couple of my KIA/Hyundai but it collected very little so removed them. I run Top Tier 95% of the time and our 2.0T now has over 140k miles without issue. I'm sure your driving habits will keep deposits at bay. If tracking it, I'd move up to a w40 for any events.

Again, congrats and enjoy
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by wemay
Congrats! My vote is for a dexos1 Gen2 5W30. But you have many choices (i believe) in the manual. Any one of those should work nicely. 5w vs 10w isn't an issue in NY. They are both 30s at operating temps. The 3.3T is fairly new but i haven't read of any deposit issues. I had a catch can on a couple of my KIA/Hyundai but it collected very little so removed them. I run Top Tier 95% of the time and our 2.0T now has over 140k miles without issue.

Wow! Good to hear...I am just getting in the vicinity of 100kmiles now. My wife's car is a 2006 and she is just over 100k...guess who does most of the driving in our family?
;^)
 
1. I don't know, sorry, but the internet doesn't seem awash with horror stories.

2. Snake oil.

3. Viscosity won't matter much towards your specific concerns. I believe thicker is better to an extent, and would run an A3/B4 0W/5W-40

4. Snake oil. Snake can?
 
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by wemay
Congrats! My vote is for a dexos1 Gen2 5W30. But you have many choices (i believe) in the manual. Any one of those should work nicely. 5w vs 10w isn't an issue in NY. They are both 30s at operating temps. The 3.3T is fairly new but i haven't read of any deposit issues. I had a catch can on a couple of my KIA/Hyundai but it collected very little so removed them. I run Top Tier 95% of the time and our 2.0T now has over 140k miles without issue.

Wow! Good to hear...I am just getting in the vicinity of 100kmiles now. My wife's car is a 2006 and she is just over 100k...guess who does most of the driving in our family?
;^)


Lol, wife uses the SFS for work and we used it exclusively (vs the other vehicles) on weekends. Not any more but it was our trip car. Lol. But yeah, really reliable and issue free. Thankfully.
 
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
4. Snake oil. Snake can?


snake can.jpg
 
Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP is my vote. It is not rated as a LPSI oil but has 1,100 ppm calcium and single digit low sodium, so technically it is a LSPI oil. Its was the FF oil for the Corvette until the new 0w 40 oil becomes available it has a viscosity of 11.8 at 100C and 3.5 HTHS. So it gives you some buffer room for fuel dilution/viscosity were 5w-30 dexos 1 Gen 2 does not. Has a bunch of Certs, some being for diesels but they can't hurt ...Chev seems to love this oil for the Corvette.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by KrisZ
Any type of cleaner meant to clean the valves is best administered though the throttle body to ensure it is applied uniformly on all valves. Introducing a cleaner by any other vacuum source may not accomplish that.




True but this will not help the OP with his Stinger. A older non-GDI engine, then yes.
 
I moved recently to NC, as per manual, I can run 5W-30, 5W40, 10-W30, 15W-40 and 20W-50 as I don't drive now if it snows (everything is closed on snow days and I have summer tires).

OIl for Stinger.jpg
 
Originally Posted by MrMoody
Don't rev it cold.


Thanks, I won't. Usually I remote start it for 10 mins, that gets the car to operating temperature.

Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Concerning the CRC intake valve cleaner, depends upon exactly how you plan to apply it and how your vehicle is configured.
I tried to spray it in past the MAF sensor, but the configuration of my vehicle made the cleaner splash back on the sensor...there was a right angle turn in the air path and I guess hooking the spray tube through that didn't work. My car ran atrociously bad until I cleaned the MAF sensor, it was a PITA to get the sensor out due to it being crammed up against the left side of the engine compartment with the screws facing left...luckily I had some teeny screwdrivers.
I ended up buying a special tool from Subaru for introducing their intake valve cleaner and carbon remover through a vacuum tube, this works well but I'm not completely sure why there are two different products.
Trav is an experienced mechanic on this site and warned me about using such cleaners too much...I last ran one maybe 6 months ago and will probably wait at least another year before running another one.

I would also recommend using a dexos2, dexos1 Gen 2, and/or SN Plus oil. Some DIT engines have had trouble with LSPI and those oil standards were developed to help keep it from occurring...my car was actually recalled for LSPI a while ago and there were some vehicles involved that got new engines. I had already learned about LSPI and was running a M1 oil with a formulation that helped mitigate that problem before the new standards had gone "live".
Car makers have been tweaking the ECU programs to help limit LSPI, but I still feel a lot better running an oil that also quashes it.

Enjoy that Stinger...I'm sure it flies!

EDIT - I may have talked about LSPI and oil already in another thread you started, sorry for any repetition!


Thanks, I don't have another thread but I was posting in one related to Stinger. That's a lot of information, I will take some time and understand. I was planning to run Mobil1 EP or Pennzoil Ultra.


Originally Posted by wemay
Congrats! My vote is for a dexos1 Gen2 5W30. But you have many choices (i believe) in the manual. Any one of those should work nicely. 5w vs 10w isn't an issue in NY. They are both 30s at operating temps. The 3.3T is fairly new so i haven't read of any deposit issues. I had a catch can on a couple of my KIA/Hyundai but it collected very little so removed them. I run Top Tier 95% of the time and our 2.0T now has over 140k miles without issue. I'm sure your driving habits will keep deposits at bay. If tracking it, I'd move up to a w40 for any events.

Again, congrats and enjoy


Thanks, I do. I moved to NC. I am planning to run top tier too. Good miles on yours.


Originally Posted by rooflessVW
1. I don't know, sorry, but the internet doesn't seem awash with horror stories.

2. Snake oil.

3. Viscosity won't matter much towards your specific concerns. I believe thicker is better to an extent, and would run an A3/B4 0W/5W-40

4. Snake oil. Snake can?


Thanks, I made an post about all viscosity I can use.

Originally Posted by Mainia
Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP is my vote. It is not rated as a LPSI oil but has 1,100 ppm calcium and single digit low sodium, so technically it is a LSPI oil. Its was the FF oil for the Corvette until the new 0w 40 oil becomes available it has a viscosity of 11.8 at 100C and 3.5 HTHS. So it gives you some buffer room for fuel dilution/viscosity were 5w-30 dexos 1 Gen 2 does not. Has a bunch of Certs, some being for diesels but they can't hurt ...Chev seems to love this oil for the Corvette.


Thanks, ESP was one of my top choices (other one being Penzzoil ultra).
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP is my vote. It is not rated as a LPSI oil but has 1,100 ppm calcium and single digit low sodium, so technically it is a LSPI oil. Its was the FF oil for the Corvette until the new 0w 40 oil becomes available it has a viscosity of 11.8 at 100C and 3.5 HTHS. So it gives you some buffer room for fuel dilution/viscosity were 5w-30 dexos 1 Gen 2 does not. Has a bunch of Certs, some being for diesels but they can't hurt ...Chev seems to love this oil for the Corvette.

I know at least one flavor of this ESP is a dexos2 oil, and that standard does include an LSPI test.
My issue is that there are two versions of ESP in the 5W30 grade now and I don't know which one is which.

OPer, you mention Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and I don't believe that line meets dexos1 Gen 2 or SN Plus standards. Pennzoil Platinum does in a number of grades and I'd be more comfortable with that, just my take and it may be that PUP meets your needs just fine.
 
The 3.3 Lambda II has a 2 stage fuel injector. It sprays a little fuel when the intake valves are open, getting some fuel on the back side of the injectors, then does its full injection after the intake valves close.
There is a video on youtube that shows this.
This was Hyundai's response to the issues of carbon buildup on GDI engines.

I have the same engine (without the turbo) on my Santa Fe and was a little worried about all the GDI carbon issues, but after learning about how the fuel injectors work, I am not near as worried about it.
Since I do not have a turbo, I am not as worried about you might be though.
If I had a turbo, I would make sure to use a SN+/D1G2 oil.

Since mine is not a turbo, I will just be using oils I already have in my stash (a mix of xw-30 and 5w-40 synthetic oils in SN, SN+ variaty) and will stick with a 5000 mile OCI.
 
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi

OPer, you mention Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and I don't believe that line meets dexos1 Gen 2 or SN Plus standards. Pennzoil Platinum does in a number of grades and I'd be more comfortable with that, just my take and it may be that PUP meets your needs just fine.


I have been looking at 10W30 as well with 5W30. Seems like 10W30's are lagging behind. Between Pennzoil Platinum and Mobile1 ESP, I would choose ESP.

Originally Posted by blupupher
The 3.3 Lambda II has a 2 stage fuel injector. It sprays a little fuel when the intake valves are open, getting some fuel on the back side of the injectors, then does its full injection after the intake valves close.
There is a video on youtube that shows this.
This was Hyundai's response to the issues of carbon buildup on GDI engines.

I have the same engine (without the turbo) on my Santa Fe and was a little worried about all the GDI carbon issues, but after learning about how the fuel injectors work, I am not near as worried about it.
Since I do not have a turbo, I am not as worried about you might be though.
If I had a turbo, I would make sure to use a SN+/D1G2 oil.

Since mine is not a turbo, I will just be using oils I already have in my stash (a mix of xw-30 and 5w-40 synthetic oils in SN, SN+ variaty) and will stick with a 5000 mile OCI.


That's pretty good to hear. I looked at one of the videos yesterday, I assume it was for just Lamda from 8 years ago.
 
It's a turbo, go 5w40! You can get lots of European oil for cheap from rmeuropean.com store (as long as you meet $65 min spend), this is where I get Motul WAY cheaper than Amazon/Ebay ($33 for 5qt vs $45) + no tax since they are in Colorado. Enjoy you car, it's a really nice one!
 
Best bet is to get with a vehicle specific user group and see what they have experienced and look at their solutions to any problems.

I can't speak to your vehicle, but many other turbo DI engine owners definitely have positive experience with using a PCV oil separation unit. Especially with the draw on the PCV dirty side when turbos spool up. The contaminates from the PCV gasses can collect in the intercooler and cause issues. And with DI, since the intake valves are not washed like in port injection, deposits building up and coking on the intake valves is a common problem.

I am not sure I would use one of the intake cleaners on the motor. Ford engineers have noticed that doing such things with their Ecoboost engines has led to turbo problems. And since VG turbos are a wallet buster to replace, you probably will take care of the majority of intake issues with the oil separation unit.

If PCV oil separation units or "catch cans" are snake oil, then it has to be explained why every heavy diesel OEM has PCV / CCV oil separation units on their motors as part of the original build from the factory. They are not as cheap with their engine builds as the auto/pickup OEM's seem to be. And they know how to take care of their customers better. They actually realize their customers want a dependable engine beyond the warranty period.
 
IMHO: I'd run Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil, Top Tier 93 octane gas and install some quality OCCs in the PCV loops. Keep your OCI at under 5K miles. Do the "Italian Tune-up" on occasion (safely of course). I'd also recommend the Fram Ultra over the OEM oil filters. Enjoy the car!

FWIW: From talking to some local Kia techs, just putting on some better flowing cat-backs (with HFC to stay somewhat legal) nets a very nice bump in power.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top