1993 Jeep Cherokee -oreilley 10w30 - high copper and lead question

[TheBirdman]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by TheBirdman
Originally Posted by PimTac
I think I've heard of you.
How so?

What is common on here is for people to register as "new" users who are individuals that have been banned in the past as trolls. One of the hallmarks of such a troll is an unfounded agenda such as calling a Fram filter "garbage" as you did. Generally they don't start a thread on that subject but slip it in some other post as an aside.

O'Reilly house oil is not "garbage" just as a Fram filter is not "garbage" either. Neither is Pennzoil oil or Mobil or any other name-brand oil. Using terms like this without any justification for doing so tends to make readers wonder what exactly your point is beyond the obvious.

My bad then, most of the car communities Ive been in before seem to all seem to agree that frams are pretty low quality, but Im definitely no expert.

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
If your leak down test was good, Restore is the last thing you need in that engine, I would do another short OCI or two and get it out. My XJ 4.0 is up to 235K, it actually seems to like MaxLife 10W40, but any name brand (or house brand)15W40 is also great in a 4.0. Mine thinks it's a diesel anyway, doesn't like revving over 4K, hauls the trailer full of firewood off-road, engine is likely to outlast the body on mine.

Yea, it was just a quick idea to see if it would have an effect on the blue cloud that always seems to catch up to me at stoplights.

 

[andyd]

Unlax you guys. Its a less expensive oil. Perfect for a 4.0. Main deal is keep the level up.Agree about valve seals.Maybe a hail Mary with a HM 10w30 or 40. A Grand Wagoner 727 torqueflite with a NP 219 or 229 transfer case is a bolt on

 

[TheBirdman]

Originally Posted by andyd
Unlax you guys. Its a less expensive oil. Perfect for a 4.0. Main deal is keep the level up.Agree about valve seals.Maybe a hail Mary with a HM 10w30 or 40. A Grand Wagoner 727 torqueflite with a NP 219 or 229 transfer case is a bolt on

I put a transgo shift kit in the tf998, so while its no 727, it does the job. I am on the lookout for a cheap NP219, 229, or 242, because the viscous coupling in the 129 is blown out and Id also like a low range option. Know anybody lol?

 

[Donald]

Oil burning could be valve stem seals or crudded up oil control ring. You can replace the valve stem seals cheap enough. Kreen and or a piston soak may help with a crudded up oil control ring. Replace the rings?

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted by Donald
Oil burning could be valve stem seals or crudded up oil control ring. You can replace the valve stem seals cheap enough. Kreen and or a piston soak may help with a crudded up oil control ring. Replace the rings?
Donald beat me to it-I was going to add, try to pick up a deal on Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W40 and try running it, make sure to run it long enough to get it good & hot, I've actually freed up oil control rings with it on neglected engines.

 

[csandste]

From was garbage in 2005. Now it's fine.

Purolator was fine in 2005. Now it's garbage.

Much of the anti Fram stuff started with a Po'd former employee. Some of those feelings are still out there on other boards. Fram is to be complimented for eventually putting up a PR fight. Should have happened earlier.

For the OP, if oil meets SN or SN+ it's pretty good.

 

[JLTD]

Back on topic, is this the first oil change since the engine was taken from the junkyard? If so, then that would explain the high metals…as would whatever additives you put in. Totally agree that an additive-free sample after another 500 or 1000 miles is needed to establish a baseline.

Edit: and using a carburetor I'd head straight for a 10w-40 and keep intervals short, at least at first.

 

[DONWATERS]

I would use 15w40 HDEO, good for any hi mi 4.0. And no additives.