1993 K1500 hard cold start

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I did not want to hijack the other recent 5.0 TBI hard start thread but to explore what Clinebarger posted about testing the fuel pump relay and prime wire

My 1993 K1500 has a longer crank first start when cold but starts quick when up to temp. How long? Well several seconds before it will catch. Possibly this is 100% normal on this worn out old girl. But for fun I began researching what he was saying on this and began playing around.

Vehicle running, fuel relay unplugged and the vehicle stays running. This means the oil pressure switch is good. Now after researching the red prime wire, I could not find the loose wire attached to the wire loom near the fuel pump relay but after reading some wire diagrams I found it connects to port G on the OBD1 port. He stated that there should not be power to the wire when the engine is running.

So I tested with my auto ranging multimeter, which as fool proof as it is, I am still new at. So: Truck off, ignition off: 5 millivolts DC. Truck running, relay in place: It fluctuated between 24-34 millivolts. Truck off, ignition off and relay removed: 0.5 millivolts. I used port A as ground.

I suppose next step is to test the relay with a power source or replace and see if it improves. But on the flip side, I have not tested my fuel pressure so perhaps the vehicle is otherwise fine.

As a caveat, I am not willing to throw money at the truck and am really enjoying learning about basic trouble shooting, electrical and so on. Just a fun project.
 
I've owned three TBIs and all took like 2 seconds of cranking on a cold start and then start right up. It's normal!
 
What happens if you turn the key on, let the fuel pump build pressure, then key off & on again? May be a weak fuel pump, my XJ does this intermittently, but then is normal again (for MONTHS!).
 
That's the other option I should try is the key on/off to prime the system and listen for the pump.
 
My 89 1500, 5.0 TBI doesn't start cold when it's below like fifty Fahrenheit, unless the engine is warm. I just hold the throttle open a bit and it fires right up and settles into an idle. It's not enough of an issue for me to pursue a fix. Tbi is a good fuel injection system, but can be a little aggravating to troubleshoot with basic obd1 onboard diagnostics, even with a scanner and proper attachments. I don't have anything to add that hadn't been said as far as advice.
 
This is assuming your ignition system is up to par.

I would replace the fuel filter and especially the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator caused many a cold start problem on my S-10 because it leaked down when the fuel system was cold.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by BrianF
I did not want to hijack the other recent 5.0 TBI hard start thread but to explore what Clinebarger posted about testing the fuel pump relay and prime wire

My 1993 K1500 has a longer crank first start when cold but starts quick when up to temp. How long? Well several seconds before it will catch. Possibly this is 100% normal on this worn out old girl. But for fun I began researching what he was saying on this and began playing around.

Vehicle running, fuel relay unplugged and the vehicle stays running. This means the oil pressure switch is good. Now after researching the red prime wire, I could not find the loose wire attached to the wire loom near the fuel pump relay but after reading some wire diagrams I found it connects to port G on the OBD1 port. He stated that there should not be power to the wire when the engine is running.

So I tested with my auto ranging multimeter, which as fool proof as it is, I am still new at. So: Truck off, ignition off: 5 millivolts DC. Truck running, relay in place: It fluctuated between 24-34 millivolts. Truck off, ignition off and relay removed: 0.5 millivolts. I used port A as ground.

I suppose next step is to test the relay with a power source or replace and see if it improves. But on the flip side, I have not tested my fuel pressure so perhaps the vehicle is otherwise fine.

As a caveat, I am not willing to throw money at the truck and am really enjoying learning about basic trouble shooting, electrical and so on. Just a fun project.



The PCM grounds on TBI systems are VERY noisy, Hook your DVOM to the battery negative. I consider under 500 millivolts NO Voltage when testing 12 volt solid state devices.
The terminal pins at the data link connector are known to have a layer of corrosion on them as they don't have a protective Tin coating, Your problem is most likely from poor contact with the terminals.

You can easily back-probe test the fuel pump relay in the truck, (Trucks used a different style relay than passenger cars of the era, The car relay connectors are sealed with a Tar like material & you don't want that stuff on your test equipment!. Trucks use a nice "metri-pack" style connector with silicone seals)

Terminal A, Orange wire.....Battery power.
Terminal C, Red wire......Prime
Terminal D, Black/White.....Ground
Terminal E, Gray wire.......Output to fuel pump
Terminal F, Green/White.....ECM relay control, Puts out 12vdc

*Back-probe terminal E with a T-pin or a straightened paper clip by slipping past the silicone seal.
*Have someone turn on the key.
*If the relay is operational.....It should audibly click & you should now have power.

An additional test.....
*Key off
*DVOM hooked to battery positive
*Probe the same Terminal E.
*If the wiring between the relay, oil pressure switch & fuel pump are good....The DVOM will read near battery voltage.
This tests the uses the ground return from the fuel pump as a quick/dirty test of the wiring.

Every TBI owner should have one of these, HERE
Replaces thee fuel filter for pressure testing, I changed the fitting on mine to a R-12/Standard schrader & use a old Robinair R-12 gauge set which are more accurate & last longer than the dedicated gauges sold today.
 
Robinair gauges are great!

I agree with the TBI engines are slow to start when cold, the fuel is basically squirting straight down on a cold intake manifold floor. Like a carb.
 
Thanks guys for the input!! Very much appreciated and this is great info!!

So last night, when all was quiet, no kids running around yelling or what not, I did an audible test on the fuel pump. I fiddled the door switch so it would not buzz with the key in the ignition and door open. I tripped the ignition and heard the fuel pump kick in.

But because this is a learning experiment, I plan on probing the test ports and relay as suggested. As well I want to source a fuel pressure gauge and timing light.
 
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