Any car owners with bypass and huge mileage?

Originally Posted By: jakemarsh7
I'm just wondering if one of the Amsoil bypass filtration systems seems like something that would make sense for my situation
Why would a bypass make sense for your application? Just to stir the pot?
 
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Why would a bypass make sense for your application? Just to stir the pot?

uninformed bias and complete misunderstanding of pros/cons of bypass filtration?
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pass the ladle; I'll stir for a while
grin.gif
 
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150000 on a '94 Grand Cherokee. Frantz on the 4.0 inline and the auto tranny. Dual Frams on the fuel line.

100000 on an '06 Dodge Durango. Ralph Wood Motorguards on baby Hemi and auto transmission.

A bunch of trouble free driving.
 
Sorry for the delay (4 years) in replying. The engine is the 3.8. I'll have to post my update video someday.

I can't remember if I mentioned it in one of my previous posts but in January of 2014 at 517,000 miles I was replacing the leaky valve cover gaskets and I noticed the valve train on the rear head was nearly dry. It wasn't getting any oil so I pulled the heads and had them done, put in new rings and bearings, oil pump, hoses, etc,

The van now has 618,000 miles on it. Original cam and cam bearings! How is that possible?! Once the rebuild work was done I just kept driving and in June of 2016 I reached 600K. As of today, the van is still running well but being in Minnesota means the rust is probably going to kill it before the motor dies.
 
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Cost effective use of a bypass filter means UOAs. And you need a big oil sump to make UOA cost effective otherwise just replace the oil if it costs the same or less than a UOA?
 
Originally Posted by biron
Sorry for the delay (4 years) in replying. The engine is the 3.8. I'll have to post my update video someday.

I can't remember if I mentioned it in one of my previous posts but in January of 2014 at 517,000 miles I was replacing the leaky valve cover gaskets and I noticed the valve train on the rear head was nearly dry. It wasn't getting any oil so I pulled the heads and had them done, put in new rings and bearings, oil pump, hoses, etc,

The van now has 618,000 miles on it. Original cam and cam bearings! How is that possible?! Once the rebuild work was done I just kept driving and in June of 2016 I reached 600K. As of today, the van is still running well but being in Minnesota means the rust is probably going to kill it before the motor dies.


CarWell or FF or Krown or similar.
 
I have an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter on my 2014 WRX. It's been on there for 12,000 miles Ive had 2 UOA and they both came back great. The car only has 24,000 miles on it and I want to take it off and cut it open but at 50 bucks a filter I'm gonna leave it on longer. I will post the pics once I do cut it open. Cant wait, I do always cut open all my regular full flow filters, cut out the media from the housing and look into the pleats for any signs of metal. I did find my 2006 silverado 4.8L making metal at 210,000. It was 2 cam lobes, Changed the cam and the lifters and no more metal. Its been 55,000 miles since the cam replacement. That's all I have ever seen inside the pleats and I've cut open Id say 40 filters.
 
Originally Posted by rotorcraft230
I have an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter on my 2014 WRX. It's been on there for 12,000 miles Ive had 2 UOA and they both came back great. The car only has 24,000 miles on it and I want to take it off and cut it open but at 50 bucks a filter I'm gonna leave it on longer. I will post the pics once I do cut it open.



You shouldn't find anything in those pleats, ever..... not to the human eye, anyway

- - - not if the oil that goes to the bypass filter comes from the "clean oil" side of the full flow oil filter, like mine does.
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by rotorcraft230
I have an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter on my 2014 WRX. It's been on there for 12,000 miles Ive had 2 UOA and they both came back great. The car only has 24,000 miles on it and I want to take it off and cut it open but at 50 bucks a filter I'm gonna leave it on longer. I will post the pics once I do cut it open.



You shouldn't find anything in those pleats, ever..... not to the human eye, anyway

- - - not if the oil that goes to the bypass filter comes from the "clean oil" side of the full flow oil filter, like mine does.


I have the oil coming off a sandwich plate pre full flow. Just FYI
Mark
 
I'm in the same boat, currently about 10k with the bypass on 50k motor. Plan to keep it on since its already there. My thread below has some data, should be posting up a new uoa by Monday.
 
Just saw this post - thought I'd throw in my experience with my Amsoil BP filter.
I have an 05 VW GTI (bought new) with 1.8 Turbo. Must use synthetic because of the snotting issues if you use mineral oil. I have used Pentosin Hi Perf II 5W-40 once the car came off the free maintenance (and Castrol Syntec) at 40K miles. Normal oil filter was replaced with an equivalent larger Mann filter for additional oil capacity. Engine has Revo Stage 1 software as well as a larger 2.5" turbo back exhaust and larger dia intake pipe. Bigger intercooler as well.
Added the Amsoil single BP kit at approx 25K miles. UOA analysis has been done since 50K miles. OCI started at 5K miles and have steadily increased to the current 12K at 156K miles. Fe ppm have slowly increased from 7 PPM to latest value of 19 PPM. Sn is consistent between 0 and 2 while Pb has slowly increased from 1 to 4 PPM. Cu ran from 2 to 7 while Al is steady at 2 PPM. All other engine metals are 0.
Only real issue from the UOA has been due to spark issues - lost an Ir spark plug tip giving non-zero fuel %. Insoluble % varies from 0 to trace levels ( Even though this has been an expensive set of UOA and oil changes (9 qts of syn every change), I prefer to see any issues early on - hopefully before they become catastrophic. There has been no major engine work except for the required timing belt changes. The car continues to jump when you stick your foot in it and sips gas when you don't.
 
Hi all,

I find this forum about bypass filtration and oil cleanliness extremely interesting.

But still, I would like to ask if there are any car owners that use bypass filtration and have covered high miles.

Thanks
Do a search here for Ralph Wood's posts and you will find all the real-world info you could want on the benefits of bypass filtration. This forum now seems to have a lot of folks who think bypass filtration is a waste of time and money. AFAIK, that soot those EGRs are feeding back into your engines is not filtered. :unsure:
 
Regarding soot, that's a very misunderstood topic.

Soot in most engines starts out around 40nm in size, give or take a bit. That's NANO-meters, not micro-meters (um). Think about it for a second ...

Soot that is 40nm in size has to "grow" (amalgamate, or co-join) with other soot particles and increase to 100x (one hundred times) its initial size, just to become 4um. And as we all know, most particles smaller than 5um really pose little threat in terms of wear. So soot must grow 100x larger just to even approach being a concern.

Most bypass filters (any of the major brands like Amsoil, Frantz, FS2500, etc) really only become truly effective when the particles are around 3-4um and larger; they will be "absolute" in efficiency around that size. So any particle smaller than that will pass right through even the most efficient of bypass filters.

Part of the oil add-pack is the anti-agglomerate; the stuff that keeps soot from amalgamating. As long as the oil is in good shape and not overwhelmed, the additives will keep soot from "growing" larger, or at least significantly slow the progess of growth. Now consider the OCI practices. OCIs flush out the majority of all contamination (admittedly not all, but darn near most of it). Fresh oil with low contamination and a strong add-pack really has little concern for soot. Though there may be a lot of soot near the end of an OCI, that doesn't mean that the soot is large enough to do damage yet. Most of the soot is still too small to make a significant impact in wear rates. If you horribly overran the OCI, and didn't have BP filters, then it would be a major concern. In effect, it's not filtration keeping soot in control in a normal OCI; it's the oil additives. You can have 3% soot by volume, but as long as those particles are small, they mean little and the wear rates are not affected. Never confuse particle quantity with particle size.

BP filters don't make equipment last longer. BP filters make oils last longer in service by keeping them clean over a very long OCI. BP filters haven't been shown to statisically make a difference in wear control in short-to-moderate OCIs. BP filters are a fiscal savings tool in regard to oil changes, not equipment life. Low wear rates are not exclusive to the use of BP filters. You can get low wear rates by just changing the oil frequently enough that you flush out contamination rather than filter it out.

There are countless examples of similar engines run in very similar conditions, which have different filtration systems. Those that use BP filters really have shown zero (none, zip, nada) advantages in terms of wear control in "normal" OCIs (less than 15k miles). There are some old UOAs here on this site for some Dmax diesel engines. Two trucks drove from the midwest, out through the Rockies, pulling RVs. One ran syn oil and BP filtration; the other ran dino oil and a typical FF filter only. And yet, at the end of 6500 miles, both trucks turned in nearly identical UOAs in terms of wear metals. The BP filter did absolutely nothing to improve the wear rates, nor did the syn oil. Why? Because in 6500 miles, the OCI didn't accumulate enough contamination yet to make any burden to either system. The BP and syn fluid cost about 4x more money, and returned not one penny of benefit over the standard filter and oil.

BP filters are a fantastic tool to extend OCIs. They make a lot of sense in large sump systems where the costs can be spread out over very long OCIs, especially when the oil change volume is measured in gallons and not quarts.

But BP filters are not a one-size-fits-all answer which will assure you of success in all applications; that is patently untrue. In short-to-moderate OCI durations, they do pretty much nothing but waste money because they do NOT improve wear rates when contamination levels are low, and the soot is still very, very small.


 
I have an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter on my 2014 WRX. It's been on there for 12,000 miles Ive had 2 UOA and they both came back great. The car only has 24,000 miles on it and I want to take it off and cut it open but at 50 bucks a filter I'm gonna leave it on longer.

Put a Frantz, or better an Oil Refiner (final generation Frantz) on there, and you can buy a lot more oil and toilet paper. Heck, you could even buy the factory-approved TP straight from Frantz and still be way ahead of that Am--l scam.
 
I have 248,000 miles on my '03 Honda S2000 with an Amsoil BMK-13 dual remote bypass filter system and a prelube pump. I run Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 oil with 40,000 mile OCIs. My car still runs like new and my UOAs are looking great.

I agree that the filter is the key, but it takes a good oil with a robust add pack to allow you to extend your OCIs enough to make it cost effective.
That is awesome you still have a modern classic… I do think that prelube pump you have on the vehicle is an underrated component with regards to the low engine wear. I am not a technical person-but remember looking them up when I first saw your vehicle on here many years ago. The concept of prelubing seems a great way to eliminate cold-start wear on an engine-which think is one of the main factors with engine wear in general.
 
Hi all,

I find this forum about bypass filtration and oil cleanliness extremely interesting.

But still, I would like to ask if there are any car owners that use bypass filtration and have covered high miles.

Thanks
I've always liked the idea. Had one years ago, but found it would not remove gasoline from the oil. After 20k miles, the oil looked great, but had a gas smell. So I never installed another one.
 
I've been running an Amsoil BMK 23-EA Dual Bypass Filter since January 2016. I installed the unit when my 2011 Ford Expedition had 100k miles. It currently has 330k miles. So I've run it for 230k miles. I make Cross Country trips multiple times per year. I change the Full Flow (Eao-26) filter every 25k miles, and I change the Bypass (EABP-100) every 75k miles. I've done 15 UOA's, and have a pretty good grasp of what I'm doing. Based on my research with these 5.4L motors I switched from Amsoil SS 5w-20 to Amsoil SS 5w-30 @250k miles. So far so good for 80k miles. I hope this helps. I have learned so much from this forum, and I love sharing my results and observations.
(The EABP-100 is rated for 70k miles, however the Math works better for 75k miles with my 25k Eao-26 Filter)
 
I've been running an Amsoil BMK 23-EA Dual Bypass Filter since January 2016. I installed the unit when my 2011 Ford Expedition had 100k miles. It currently has 330k miles. So I've run it for 230k miles. I make Cross Country trips multiple times per year. I change the Full Flow (Eao-26) filter every 25k miles, and I change the Bypass (EABP-100) every 75k miles. I've done 15 UOA's, and have a pretty good grasp of what I'm doing. Based on my research with these 5.4L motors I switched from Amsoil SS 5w-20 to Amsoil SS 5w-30 @250k miles. So far so good for 80k miles. I hope this helps. I have learned so much from this forum, and I love sharing my results and observations.
(The EABP-100 is rated for 70k miles, however the Math works better for 75k miles with my 25k Eao-26 Filter)
Curious how the water pump did on the 3.5L? Certainly the OEM didn't last 330k ... when replaced? more than once?
 
Curious how the water pump did on the 3.5L? Certainly the OEM didn't last 330k ... when replaced? more than once?
dnewton3 My 2011 Expedition has a 5.4L 3 valve motor, the water pump is original, the alternator is also original. I think I'm on my 5th windshield, 5th Battery (2 or 3 under warranty) I've replaced the steering wheel (they get kind of gummy), both Switch Packs on the Steering Wheel, and the Clock Spring. I'm most Surprised by the Original Alternator. I replaced the Alternator 3 times on my 1999 Expedition 5.4L 2valve. As you might imagine I'm pretty On Top of my vehicle maintenance. I don't hesitate to drive my Expedition anywhere in the US or Canada. I just drove down to my Cattle Farm in S GA, which is 2000 miles from my House in Utah. If people would properly maintain their Vehicles, they would last a long time!
Thanks for your Question
 
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