1994 Honda Civic LX Main Relay-solder

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1994 Honda Civic LX Main relay
Trying to see if I can resolder the old main relay and get it to work.

Any particular solder that I should purchase?
Harbor freights sells lead free rosin core solder but I'm not an expert in solder and not able to tell which solder to buy or stay away from.

How many watts should my solder gun have in order to melt the old solder.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
The original solder is lead-based, it would be best to match it though not essential.

In general stay away from cheap stuff, quality solder makes a much better job.

A 25 watt pencil type soldering iron is sufficient. Solder gun likely too much heat.
 
You can generally "Re-Flow" a cracked solder joint using VERY LITTLE additional solder.

I have a Snap-on butane torch with ironing tips.....I turn the fuel down pretty low when doing circuit board work along with a "solder sucker" if needed. I use a pretty small gauge solder on things like this (.020"-.031"), Prefer a 63% Tin/37% Lead, Synthetic Flux Core for Board/Joint repair. The use of Non-Lead solders is what causes all the cold/cracked joints we see today! Keep it away from children, Wash your hands & don't chew on it.....

Though I've never resorted to these type methods on cheap components like relays.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
The original solder is lead-based, it would be best to match it though not essential.

In general stay away from cheap stuff, quality solder makes a much better job.

A 25 watt pencil type soldering iron is sufficient. Solder gun likely too much heat.


Tried my 30 watt pencil and it wouldnt not melt down the original solder.
 
My 88 CRX was at one point prone to sudden occasional hard starting . It only happened on very hot days. Someone on a Honda group said the main relay on those cars was prone to acting up like that due to a defect. It acted just like vapor lock. Sure enough changed it and it never came back.
 
If you can afford it get a Hakko FX601. The power cord's stiff for an iron, but it should last you a lifetime.

Whatever you buy, a chisel tip is best for most jobs. Quicker heat transfer to larger surfaces than those needle tips.
You want it all flowing in about 10 seconds. Too long a time, and it indicates too low wattage, and you'll damage components or melt things.
I have a roll of Kester solder, probably 60/40 (label's worn) rosin core.
 
I would avoid the lead free solder for electrical / electronics . Use the traditional lead / tin rosin core solder , if you can find it .

Wash your hands after you finish & no eating / drinking while you are messing with the solder . No big deal .
 
When I had Honda's and when they would get the main relay issue, I would simply reflow them with no additional solder.
 
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