1993 Jeep Cherokee -oreilley 10w30 - high copper and lead question

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Hey guys, First time poster, but may I say what a dedicated community. I had no idea there was a forum this active just for discussing lubricants.
Anyways, the vehicle is actually an 83 amc eagle, but the motor is from a 93 cherokee, so thats probably a more accurate title. I was concerned about the level of material on my magnetic drain plug, so I dug out the old blackstone kit I had lying around, and sent in a sample. These are the results:
[Linked Image]

Yes, I know, I was using cheap garbage oil. Ive seen the error in my ways and switched to M1 high mileage 10w30 now.

Anyways, the question I have you you guys is this:
During the last oil change, I had added 12.5 oz of engine restore, to see if it would help my light oil burning problem. Compression numbers went up an average of 10 psi per cylinder, but the oil burning didnt change. Im thinking valve stem seals now, but havent gotten around to changing them yet. Anyways, the additive added a bunch of copper and lead to my oil, so its difficult to say if Ive got excessive bearing wear, or how bad it is. I know, I wont get a clear picture of that for another 2 or 3 OCIs, and anything else is mere speculation, but I was just wondering if I could get you guys' opinion on if these levels of copper and lead are in line with the use of the additive, or if they seem high even for this use case. That is, if anyone has experience with UOAs done with restore in use.
 
You'll really need a fresh "additive free" report before any sort of observations can be drawn here. Sodium is also high, but perhaps its part of that oil's additive package? Aluminium and iron are also elevated from a PPM/mile perspective. The 2% fuel, given the Blackstone fuel dilution measurement method is also high.

Basically, it's a really poor showing for this piece of equipment, but we don't know how much that is skewed by the additives.

What's the history on the engine? How many miles on it, has it been sitting?
 
I wonder if the lead is how Restore supposedly restores compression. Could having such a soft metal in there actually act as a temporary "sealant" on damaged cylinder walls?
 
Why is O'Reilly cheap garbage oil? Think they've switched suppliers over the years but the high sodium would be indicative of older Valvoline. M1 high mileage is pretty expensive given the engine. The other stuff is your Restore. Think I tried that once on a beater about thirty years ago. Kind of like using the Late Earl Schieb to paint your car. Joy of having a beater. Enjoyed many of them in my younger poorer days.
 
The thing with Jeep 4.0s is they thrive on cheap garbage oils.

The Restore is doing way more damage to that engine than cheap garbage oils, and that's probably where your numbers are coming from.
 
engine was a bit of a wildcard. I got it from an auto salvage yard last year, they had a leakdown test done on it that it passed with flying colors, the only other thing I "know" about it is that it came from a 93 cherokee with 100k-150k miles. I put an HEI and carb on it since I dont have enough of the pieces to get the fuel injection working.
The fuel I could see being high because I didnt warm it up all the way before taking the sample, just idled a few minutes to stir up the oil. It was also idling rich enough to soot the plugs for the week or two before the sample, since Ive been trying different things to get it to start better in the cold.
Restore claims the key to it filling in cylinder wall imperfections is what they call "CSL", copper silver, lead. It is interesting that the analysis didnt find any silver. Maybe it settled out, or there just wasnt as much of it to begin with as the copper and lead.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Why is O'Reilly cheap garbage oil? Think they've switched suppliers over the years but the high sodium would be indicative of older Valvoline. M1 high mileage is pretty expensive given the engine. The other stuff is your Restore. Think I tried that once on a beater about thirty years ago. Kind of like using the Late Earl Schieb to paint your car. Joy of having a beater. Enjoyed many of them in my younger poorer days.

Didnt mean to step on anyones oil preference toes, I just assumed it wasnt that great since it was cheap conventional and orielley has a thing for pushing garbage fram filters.
 
Originally Posted by TheBirdman
Originally Posted by csandste
Why is O'Reilly cheap garbage oil? Think they've switched suppliers over the years but the high sodium would be indicative of older Valvoline. M1 high mileage is pretty expensive given the engine. The other stuff is your Restore. Think I tried that once on a beater about thirty years ago. Kind of like using the Late Earl Schieb to paint your car. Joy of having a beater. Enjoyed many of them in my younger poorer days.

Didnt mean to step on anyones oil preference toes, I just assumed it wasnt that great since it was cheap conventional and orielley has a thing for pushing garbage fram filters.




I think I've heard of you.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by TheBirdman
Originally Posted by csandste
Why is O'Reilly cheap garbage oil? Think they've switched suppliers over the years but the high sodium would be indicative of older Valvoline. M1 high mileage is pretty expensive given the engine. The other stuff is your Restore. Think I tried that once on a beater about thirty years ago. Kind of like using the Late Earl Schieb to paint your car. Joy of having a beater. Enjoyed many of them in my younger poorer days.

Didnt mean to step on anyones oil preference toes, I just assumed it wasnt that great since it was cheap conventional and orielley has a thing for pushing garbage fram filters.




I think I've heard of you.

How so?
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Why is O'Reilly cheap garbage oil? Think they've switched suppliers over the years but the high sodium would be indicative of older Valvoline. M1 high mileage is pretty expensive given the engine. The other stuff is your Restore. Think I tried that once on a beater about thirty years ago. Kind of like using the Late Earl Schieb to paint your car. Joy of having a beater. Enjoyed many of them in my younger poorer days.

Earl would paint your car for $99 and then use $20 from the proceeds to buy a really seedy looking plaid suit...
 
Nearly impossible to tell what's going on with the Restore additive in the picture. Run an OCI without it and see where it is from there. Assuming everything is looking okay after that, I'd ignore the "light oil burning" and top off as necessary. My personal preference from my old AMC 4.0L was Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 with 5k mile intervals. Excellent oil, cheap enough, and easy to find. Assuming it is just a light oil burning, with that regimen the engine will outlast the rest of the Eagle. If you got pics of it, post them on here! Those are awesome cars that are getting more and more difficult to find.
 
If your leak down test was good, Restore is the last thing you need in that engine, I would do another short OCI or two and get it out. My XJ 4.0 is up to 235K, it actually seems to like MaxLife 10W40, but any name brand (or house brand)15W40 is also great in a 4.0. Mine thinks it's a diesel anyway, doesn't like revving over 4K, hauls the trailer full of firewood off-road, engine is likely to outlast the body on mine.
 
Sure i got some pics
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Just last month I finished the body work, repainted the bare spots, put a bedliner stripe along the bottom, and stuck on all the trim and flares I managed to find. I havent gotten a chance to take any good outdoor shots since then.
 
Originally Posted by TheBirdman
Originally Posted by PimTac
I think I've heard of you.
How so?

What is common on here is for people to register as "new" users who are in reality individuals that have been banned in the past as trolls. One of the hallmarks of such a troll is an unfounded agenda such as calling a Fram filter "garbage" as you did. Generally they don't start a thread on that specific subject but slip it in some other post as an aside.

O'Reilly house oil is not "garbage" just as a Fram filter is not "garbage" either. Neither is Pennzoil oil or Mobil or any other name-brand oil. Using terms like this without any justification for doing so tends to make readers wonder what exactly your point is beyond the obvious.
 
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