Perfect storm!

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Changed the oil for winter using left-overs ...
Out M1 EP 10Wx30 after 7413 miles.. This is my current summer oil for this car.

Ended up mixing 4 qt. of PP 5Wx30 (winter oil for this car) and 1.5 qt. of M1 EP 5Wx30 (I had 2 qt. Left-over)
I can use the 1/2 qt. left over for top up. The car burns very little oil.

Hopefully gtl and pao can get along or the wife will witness the perfect storm.
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Since I've joined bitog, I am more cautious about mixing.
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Oil color was very dark brown and it looked kind of thick ... I compared it with fresh Chevron Supreme 10Wx30.

Only put 7413 miles (6 months) on this 15K miles oil but the car is gdi. om recommends 7500 miles oci.
This is the longest I've gone with any oil.
Previous PP change was in low 5K mile range iirc ... and with dino cs or pennzoil I typically go 3500-4500 miles max.

Kind of concerned about the oil thickness but it's all visual inspection and not a real gauge.
Saved some oil in a jar and may do a uoa!
What do you guys think?
 
Uh huh. Another frankenbrew. With this act OiUzer you've just become a full blown bitog member! J/K. I'm pretty sure there are oils at Wally World that are PAO/ GTL blends so, like the others have said, you'll be OK.
 
What about the old oil looking kind of thick and heavy ... is that due to oxidation or is it soot.
Can't recall how much soot oil can absorb before being ineffective.
Maybe I pushed the EP to its limit with the gdi engine. Not sure about 15K miles...
Like to know if I could go beyond 7413 to 10K miles. I guess uoa maybe the only way to find out.
 
Originally Posted by double vanos
Uh huh. Another frankenbrew. With this act OiUzer you've just become a full blown bitog member! J/K. I'm pretty sure there are oils at Wally World that are PAO/ GTL blends so, like the others have said, you'll be OK.


lol that's right a true member must mix knowing that it may not be the best idea.
whereas before I used to occasionally mix without any knowledge!
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Originally Posted by OilUzer

Since I've joined bitog, I am more cautious about mixing.
grin2.gif





Anyone posting here with mixing concerns is a true newb. Disregard every thing an anti-mixer says from now on...
 
I became more cautious about mixing oils this year after having a conversation with Lake Speed Jr about base oil compatibility. Now try to keep mixing only between similar oils of the same brand.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Care to share?


Simply put, some base oils just don't want to blend with one another. In the original testing for the Driven line of oils, they found that some combinations of oils, particularly oils containing alkylated naphthalenes mixed with ester based oils, faired worse in sequence IIIG testing than the oils by themselves. When exposed to high heat, the two would separate and the lighter of the two would rapidly boil off. Oils with an acidic additive package don't like to blend with oils using an alkaline based additive package, and they can form insoluble soaps which at best clog up oil filters faster and at worst can damage engine seals.
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Care to share?


Simply put, some base oils just don't want to blend with one another. In the original testing for the Driven line of oils, they found that some combinations of oils, particularly oils containing alkylated naphthalenes mixed with ester based oils, faired worse in sequence IIIG testing than the oils by themselves. When exposed to high heat, the two would separate and the lighter of the two would rapidly boil off. Oils with an acidic additive package don't like to blend with oils using an alkaline based additive package, and they can form insoluble soaps which at best clog up oil filters faster and at worst can damage engine seals.


How many of these incompatible base-stocks are used in everyday group II+, III, IV and V oil blends? I don't care about what tribologists play with in their labs, but what's actually out on the shelves. Will PYB ever have an issue in the same sump as Redline, is what I want to know.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Care to share?


Simply put, some base oils just don't want to blend with one another. In the original testing for the Driven line of oils, they found that some combinations of oils, particularly oils containing alkylated naphthalenes mixed with ester based oils, faired worse in sequence IIIG testing than the oils by themselves. When exposed to high heat, the two would separate and the lighter of the two would rapidly boil off. Oils with an acidic additive package don't like to blend with oils using an alkaline based additive package, and they can form insoluble soaps which at best clog up oil filters faster and at worst can damage engine seals.


How many of these incompatible base-stocks are used in everyday group II+, III, IV and V oil blends? I don't care about what tribologists play with in their labs, but what's actually out on the shelves. Will PYB ever have an issue in the same sump as Redline, is what I want to know.


From what I gathered, if the oil has reached the shelf, it is good to go. Mixing something like PYB 5w-20 with PYB 10w-40 of the same API certification would be fine since they share similar chemistry. Mixing something like PYB 10w-30 conventional group II/III with something like Red Line 10w-30 probably won't go over well. While the conventional oil will blend well with PAO, the high amount of polyol ester in Red Line will not blend well with conventional oil.

I spoke to him about something very similar with mixing PYB 10w-30 with Driven XP3. He told me I'd be better off running straight PYB 10w-30 than trying to blend it, saying the risk of base oil incompatibility and additive clash isn't worth it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by StevieC
What happens when people go to different oil changes places and get different oils?
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With this car i get 5.5 qt. out on the ramp. and when I put in 5.5 qt. it's right at the full mark.
OM spec is 5.27 qt.

It's kind of surprising that I assume all of oil comes out. People say some oil stays in the gallery, etc. If it does, it must be in addition to the 5.5 qt. ... Maybe the ramp forces more/all oil out.I

Long long time ago, I used to crank/turn the engine for a second or two after it was drained to get all of the oil out
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I would never do that now!
One of my friends used to do it and I thought it was a good idea and none of our cars ever blew up!
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I sold that car with over 400K miles! All using dino 10Wx40
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