What Oil Are You Running In Your Honda 1.5T?

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Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?
 
Appreciate the replies regarding using alternate oil.

I want to make sure I understand the basics: Is it true that if we want to improve the resistance to dilution (viscosity reduction) we should pick an oil with a higher upper (summer) number - for example 30W or 40W instead of 20W? Also for those of us who drive in freezing temperatures is it the lower number (e.g. 0W) that is relevant to cold starting protection?

If both those statements are true (and correct me if they aren't) - then for Wisconsin winter driving would I be best with something like 0W30 or 0W40? If so, I'm leaning towards Castrol Magnatec (unless anyone has heard bad things about it) and changing every 3,000 miles.

Thoughts?
 
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Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.
 
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.


Sorry to ask - but I don't know the acronyms (e.g. PPPP, GTL, QSUD, SOPUS). I'm guessing QS=Quaker State and PP=Penzoil.
 
Originally Posted by dbier
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.


Sorry to ask - but I don't know the acronyms (e.g. PPPP, GTL, QSUD, SOPUS). I'm guessing QS=Quaker State and PP=Penzoil.



Yep. It's all Shell
 
Originally Posted by dbier
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.


Sorry to ask - but I don't know the acronyms (e.g. PPPP, GTL, QSUD, SOPUS). I'm guessing QS=Quaker State and PP=Penzoil.

PPPP = Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus
GTL = Gas to Liquid (a process used to extract hydrocarbons from natural gas)
QSUD = Quaker State Ultimate Durability
SOPUS = Shell Oil Products U.S.
 
Sorry if I missed this and it's already been posted but does anyone have ANY objective evidence (UOA) that fuel dilution is detrimental to the engine?
 
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
Sorry if I missed this and it's already been posted but does anyone have ANY objective evidence (UOA) that fuel dilution is detrimental to the engine?





I haven't seen any evidence but there has not been much in the sense of a long term observation yet. We see a lot of analysis with high fuel dilution yet wear metals are low.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
Sorry if I missed this and it's already been posted but does anyone have ANY objective evidence (UOA) that fuel dilution is detrimental to the engine?





I haven't seen any evidence but there has not been much in the sense of a long term observation yet. We see a lot of analysis with high fuel dilution yet wear metals are low.




So a whole lot of effort and worry here and elsewhere over something that may have ZERO consequences. People on some of the other Honda forums are losing their minds...I'll get worked up when someone shows me there's a real problem...otherwise life is too short.
 
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Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.


but is it really though?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
Sorry if I missed this and it's already been posted but does anyone have ANY objective evidence (UOA) that fuel dilution is detrimental to the engine?





I haven't seen any evidence but there has not been much in the sense of a long term observation yet. We see a lot of analysis with high fuel dilution yet wear metals are low.



There are several reports on CRV forums of owners having new cylinder heads installed because of excessive cam wear. These were owners that also had the fuel dilution issue, so it's mot unreasonable to assume there's a connection. Admittedly, these are still relatively few events and may be the most extreme examples, but the engines are still pretty new to the market.
 
Originally Posted by Smokescreen
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Try what I'm using in my Honda,QSUD 10W30.


Wonder how that oil differs from what I'm using in my WRX - PPPP 10W-30.

Think it's essentially the same thing?

PPPP uses GTL basestock, QSUD does not. Also, SOPUS considers QS their "value" oil and PP their "premium" oil.


but is it really though?

QSUD is considerably cheaper so there's the "value." PPPP uses GTL basestock so there's the "premium."
 
Well. The GF informed me that the dealership does oil changes for $12. So, even with the $20 MIR on PPPP (the route I advised her to go), which would put her oil cost at around $4-5 for the oil change (not including filter or labor), it probably makes too much sense not to let them do it. If I lived there I'd do it for her, but she'd have to get her dad to do it or pay somebody else to do it.

If it was my car, I'd run PPPP 10W-30, most likely. Same as in my WRX. Matter of fact I need to buy some of that and take advantage of that rebate.
 
Having a teenager from the Honda dealer do your OCI's doesn't solve the problem, does it?
 
On the other hand...

There is a clear warning in the owners manual not to over fill the crankcase so if your dealer is doing your OCI's and when dilution takes it above full you can march right in and expect resolution. This will accomplish two things a record of suspected dilution and corrected crankcase level, in fact they'd probably just drain it all and refill. Problem with this is much time spent at the dealer.
 
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Originally Posted by turnbowm
QSUD is considerably cheaper so there's the "value." PPPP uses GTL basestock so there's the "premium."

I bet Smokescreen is getting at the point that it's not considerably cheaper in Canada. The price tends to be identical down to the cent at almost every store in Canada, which shouldn't be far off the mark, given they're virtually interchangeable, maybe aside from an A5/B5 spec in 5w-30. I'd consider the value brand to be Formula Shell, which, for better or worse, doesn't carry the dexos1 specification.
 
Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by turnbowm
QSUD is considerably cheaper so there's the "value." PPPP uses GTL basestock so there's the "premium."

I bet Smokescreen is getting at the point that it's not considerably cheaper in Canada. The price tends to be identical down to the cent at almost every store in Canada, which shouldn't be far off the mark, given they're virtually interchangeable, maybe aside from an A5/B5 spec in 5w-30. I'd consider the value brand to be Formula Shell, which, for better or worse, doesn't carry the dexos1 specification.

That's interesting. At Walmart (U.S.), 5-qt jugs of QSUD are $17.97 versus $22.68 for PPPP.
 
Definitely not up here. On occasion, you'll see a slight difference, but that's the exception and not the rule. If you want to buy a SOPUS 5w-30, be it synthetic or conventional, here, the general rule is that the price on PYB=QS, PHM=QSED, PP=QSUD, be it regular price or on sale price.
 
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