2018 F150-5.0V8 Kendall GT1 5W20 6030 miles

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Dec 22, 2006
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Code


Unit mi.

3020 9050

Oil mi:

3020 6030

Fe 29 15

Cr 1 0

Ni 1 0

Al 4 3

Cu 29 7

Pb 1 0

Sn 0 0

Cd 0 0

Ag 0 0

V 0 0

Si 37 18

Na 10 3

K 14 4

Ti 0 94

Mo 70 21

Sb 0 0

Mn 17 6

Li 0 0

B 164 68

Mg 12 12

Ca 2051 2425

Ba 1 0

P 687 739

Zn 751 834

Fuel%
Soot
Water
Vis100c 7.3 6.7


No make up oil was added and the IOLM was at 40%.

This is a modified DI engine (2 injectors per cylinder) so the fuel dilution doesn't surprise me. Wear metals are really low for only the second change since new. I agree with Dnewton3 that fuel dilution is an occurrence rather than a problem at this point. However, I am low on 5W-20 oil but have a good supply of 5W-30 for my 6.8 V10 so I may try the 5W-30 next change. I don't see wear problems in the Ford DI UOAs here but the cam phasers may be happier long term on 5W30.

The truck is a step up from my 2011 in nearly every way. The only thing I don't like is the transmission. The 10 speed was a joint effort between GM and Ford. GM must have done gears 1 thru 5 and Ford did the rest. Cold shifts act like the drive shaft is going to fall out. Once it hits 6, it's flawless. Warm, everything is happy.
 
What did you modify on your 5.0?

There is a tsb for harsh shifting. Take it to the dealer and they will reflash the pcm/tcm and it will shift smooth as butter every shift. Mine is a lot better since I've done it. But if you are modified maybe talk to your tuner and have them sort it out.

Nice report. The low viscosity worries me some but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. I'm using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 with a Fram Ultra and I'm following the iolm. First change was around 6k and it seems to be tracking about the same for me using the monitor.
 
By "modified" I am referring to the dual injection setup. I should have referred to it as Gen 2.
 
The moderate dilution on these engines causing lower viscosity is why I am currently doing a 50/50 mix of 5W-20 and 5W-30. I may ultimately go to 100% 5W-30 if mine gets out of hand.
 
Ok. So it's actually a stock gen 3 coyote then. They all have dual injection now. You are on the right path. Wear numbers are low and declining each change. Nice job. Keep the uoa's coming.
 
Looks good; really good for only having about 9k miles on it. Break in will continue to come down I suspect.
I will enjoy seeing the UOAs as this engine ages.
Continue on!

Interesting about the 10spd trans. Hope it does not cause issues long term.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by doyall
The moderate dilution on these engines causing lower viscosity is why I am currently doing a 50/50 mix of 5W-20 and 5W-30. I may ultimately go to 100% 5W-30 if mine gets out of hand.



It has been tested with a 5W20. If dillution is a issue Ford would have recommended 5W30. A 100C viscosity of 7 is still a 20 grade.
 
Looks good for a new engine, especially the factory fill. I'm a little surprised about the fuel dilution, being a DPFI system. I thought maybe they would lean heavy on the port injection unless there was a need for a lot of power. Do you have a lead foot?
grin.gif
Obviously I don't know what strategy the engineers are using, but I didn't expect to see the fuel in these.

Thanks for posting. If I get a new 5.0, I have something to go on with your data. Does it still take (about) 8 quarts or have they bumped up to a 10 quart capacity (like the Mustang)?
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
[... If dillution is a issue Ford would have recommended 5W30. ...


You sure do have a lot of faith in Ford. Wish I could get to that level.

I would not necessarily call moderate dilution (2 -3%) an "issue", but depending on operational/environmental parameters I could see an issue in the making.
 
Last edited:
Does this "new" engine iteration have a HP fuel pump similar to the 3.5L EB? Mounted in the valve area and driven off a lobe?
 
Good question...I have no idea. The 2011 5.0 was a clean installation. The 2018 has vacuum tubes running over the top of the engine: tees, elbows, clutter. I do notice that opening the driver's door when the engine is cold triggers something that sounds like an electric fuel pump. It clicks six times but we haven't tracked it down yet.

Where do I look for the HP pump? I envision something like a small block Chevy crammed against the block in an inaccessible location.

There is a secondary air induction that you can hear closing when you close the throttle, I assume that's located in the intake somewhere as well. Also, I have the delightful auto start/stop. My routine is "start truck, shut off s/s, put in gear".

There's a lot of complexity added for an incremental gain in fuel economy. Fortunately I plan on never doing engine work on this thing.
 
Originally Posted by dustyroads
Looks good for a new engine, especially the factory fill. I'm a little surprised about the fuel dilution, being a DPFI system. I thought maybe they would lean heavy on the port injection unless there was a need for a lot of power. Do you have a lead foot?
grin.gif
Obviously I don't know what strategy the engineers are using, but I didn't expect to see the fuel in these.

Thanks for posting. If I get a new 5.0, I have something to go on with your data. Does it still take (about) 8 quarts or have they bumped up to a 10 quart capacity (like the Mustang)?


I do occasionally stand on it but for the most part it isn't pushed hard. My hard acceleration is usually passing on two lane roads...typically 45 or 50 mph up to 70 and back down.

The oil pan capacity is allegedly 9.9 quarts. Measuring the exact fill, running it for five minutes and letting it sit overnight results in the dipstick showing it's down about a half quart. I will probably just add 10 next time.
 
Originally Posted by AITG
...The oil pan capacity is allegedly 9.9 quarts. ...


Better check your manual before you dump 10 quarts in it. My '18 5.0L specs 8.8 quarts.
 
Originally Posted by AITG
... Where do I look for the HP pump? I envision something like a small block Chevy crammed against the block in an inaccessible location.

Well the ones on the 3.5EB engines are mounted on the rear of the driver side valve cover.
The 1.0EB engines have it on the valve cover as well.
This is because those HPFP are driven by a cam lobe.
See this link for several examples:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+3.5+ecoboost+high+pressure+fuel+pump


Originally Posted by AITG
... Also, I have the delightful auto start/stop. My routine is "start truck, shut off s/s, put in gear".

Youtube again ... there's a way to defeat the auto S/S function by adding a jumper in the switch. Keeps you from having to deactivate every time.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+auto+start+stop+system+defeat+f150
everything from changing the programming to easy hard-wire jumpers
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by dnewton3
...Youtube again ... there's a way to defeat the auto S/S function by adding a jumper in the switch. Keeps you from having to deactivate every time.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+auto+start+stop+system+defeat+f150
everything from changing the programming to easy hard-wire jumpers


Suggestions on the truck forums are that the jumper method on 2018's will result in an error display. Posters also say using Forscan to reprogram will disable the Battery Management System.
 
Originally Posted by doyall
Originally Posted by AITG
...The oil pan capacity is allegedly 9.9 quarts. ...


Better check your manual before you dump 10 quarts in it. My '18 5.0L specs 8.8 quarts.

You're right. Any time I try to do things from memory I'm reminded why I always told apprentices to look it up.
 
Originally Posted by AITG
Originally Posted by doyall
Originally Posted by AITG
...The oil pan capacity is allegedly 9.9 quarts. ...


Better check your manual before you dump 10 quarts in it. My '18 5.0L specs 8.8 quarts.

You're right. Any time I try to do things from memory I'm reminded why I always told apprentices to look it up.


Well, capacity went up about a quart over my '13 anyway. Thanks guys.
 
Originally Posted by doyall
Originally Posted by dnewton3
...Youtube again ... there's a way to defeat the auto S/S function by adding a jumper in the switch. Keeps you from having to deactivate every time.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+auto+start+stop+system+defeat+f150
everything from changing the programming to easy hard-wire jumpers


Suggestions on the truck forums are that the jumper method on 2018's will result in an error display. Posters also say using Forscan to reprogram will disable the Battery Management System.



What I've done on mine to disable the start/stop system is simple and it works, no errors or anything. There is a small two wire connection off of the battery, if you unplug that it will turn the system off. Many have done it, no ill effects so far. Mine has been off for 3-4 months now.
 
Originally Posted by advocate
What I've done on mine to disable the start/stop system is simple and it works, no errors or anything. There is a small two wire connection off of the battery, if you unplug that it will turn the system off. Many have done it, no ill effects so far. Mine has been off for 3-4 months now.


That disables the Battery Management System as well. It apparently dictates the charging algorithm, perhaps other things. Some on the truck forums suggest disabling the BMS is a good thing but I have yet to be convinced taking into consideration an AGM battery.
 
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