Now I start using Torque Wrench for oil changes

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Last weekend I did an oil change on my 2013 Maxima. PP 5W30 and Mahle OC711 filter. When I removed the drain plug, I was surprized at how little torque was required to loosen the bolt. It was not dripping, but I was not impressed with the doofus (me) who 'tightened' this down 6 months ago. The VQ35DE engine, like many Nissan's has a steel lower oil pan, so less risk of drain plug thread damage versus a fully aluminum pan.

So I wanted to see how my 56 year old left arm & shoulder was performing. New copper crush washer, then I tightened the drain bolt as per usual - used a 14mm wrench and my usual amount of personal ugga-duggas. Then I torqued with my 3/8 drive mechanical click wrench set to 26 foot pounds. It clicked after about 20-22 degrees of additional twist. Lesson here: don't trust my arm & shoulder for torque.

Now all oil changes will be completed with the torque wrench. Sermon over, I am born-again.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Fumoto valve.

+1 Although before that I used my arm force and never had a leak. Also did lots of customers cars at my dads shop and none of those came back with leaks. Anything 20 or over is enough.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Fumoto valve.

+1 Although before that I used my arm force and never had a leak. Also did lots of customers cars at my dads shop and none of those came back with leaks. Anything 20 or over is enough IMO.
 
I started using one not very long ago too. It's funny how soooooo many suggest using a torque wrench for everything else but laugh at people who use them for drain plugs or "my arm is my torque wrench".
 
When doing oil changes on Toyota 3 and 4 generation forklifts no mater what, the drain plugs would drip. I got into using Loctite pipe sealant every drain plug gets the sealant, It seals the threads and increases the force needed to loosen the drain plug.
 
with a crush washer, all you need to do is tighten until you have felt the copper crush some. The torque crushes it until it work hardens. The washer may be annealed and used again if not crushed excessively.

Rod
 
Nissan specifies both to use a crush washer and to tighten the drain plug to a given torque value though.
 
Good idea. You can't go wrong using a torque wrench (as long as it is accurate!). I almost always use a (calibrated) torque wrench for drain plugs.

I changed the oil on the wife's Volt about a week ago... I was trying to figure out where to find the torque spec... and noticed it was cast into the pan next to the drain plug. Got to love that!
 
Originally Posted by Kira
OP said, "...my 56 year old left arm & shoulder..."

How old is your right arm and shoulder?


approximately the same age...but I'm left handed, so there might be slightly higher 'ugga-dugga's' on the left side :eek:)
 
My old Infiniti used to require quite a bit of tightening to fully crush those funky copper washers.
 
I have been changing oil on my own and customers cars for 60 years now, and have yet to use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Or a lug nut for that matter. Never a problem. Maybe us old guys just have a better built in torque wrench LOL.
 
Originally Posted by twoheeldrive
Good idea. You can't go wrong using a torque wrench (as long as it is accurate!). I almost always use a (calibrated) torque wrench for drain plugs.

I changed the oil on the wife's Volt about a week ago... I was trying to figure out where to find the torque spec... and noticed it was cast into the pan next to the drain plug. Got to love that!
OT-that's how I figured how tight to torque the lugs on the F-450-the lug nuts all have "140" (foot-pounds) marked right on them. From back when Ford really had "Better Ideas"!
 
Originally Posted by old1
I have been changing oil on my own and customers cars for 60 years now, and have yet to use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Or a lug nut for that matter. Never a problem. Maybe us old guys just have a better built in torque wrench LOL.

Amen to that!
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I kinda like it when they are too tight.
In my experience, the important thing is the washer.
Now, I am not talking about too loose; but as someone else said, anything over about 20 pound feet should be fine.
I probably end up with about 25 pound feet by feel.
Then again, any excuse to use the 3/8" flex head Snap-On torque wrench is OK by me.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I did my first oil change when I was 13? never had a drain plug strip, or fall out. I worked part-time in a garage from age 16-21, did hundreds of oil changes.

I admit that I'm not as strong or agile as I was as a teen, as would be the case with a lot of BITOG members, so the Torque Wrench is a nice easy - safe solution versus having a drain plug fall out!

If I was to lose a drain plug from improper tightening....well my wife would never let me forget it. Can't say I'd blame her either...stuff of nightmares!
 
Nothing wrong with using a torque wrench, on most steel pans I don't and honestly never did but aluminum ones are a different story, every time no exceptions.
I have repaired or replaced more aluminum pans than I care to remember (thankfully not damage I caused) with buggered threads, cracks and all sorts of stuff caused by someones tuned torque arm.
 
My 2 Nissans take the copper oil plug crush washer..like how you can feel it seat and crush down for the seal...never had one leak with tightening it by feel.
 
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