Meg's Ultimate Polish Before Wax ?

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My routine twice a year is : Meg's clay , Ultimate Polish then Ultimate Wax - the rest of the year I use Meg's Ultimate Wash and finish with Turtle Wax ICE spray wax .
*Not sure if the extra step of using the Ultimate Polish on a 2017 Sonata is required or not ? Mainly , the essential oils contained in the Ultimate Polish seemed like a good idea to ensure the paint stays "healthy" - yet with a clear coat paint finish I'm not sure the polish is adding much that the Ultimate Wax isn't already providing ... Your thoughts ?
 
Professionally trained detailer with years of experience here. Ultimate polish is formulated from their Mirror Glaze #205. It is not a wax, so you don't want to let it dry then buff. Instead, it is a minimally abrasive polish using their SMAT abrasives. Basically, polish not wax is what makes paint shine. The wax is a protectant. This product can can cut out some light swirls especially in soft paint but like any polished it has to be worked against the paint. Although it can be used by hand, the proper tool is a Dual-Action polisher known in the industry as a DA. Basically, you might get 5% of this product's capabilities by hand, but it will really come alive if you get a DA.

I would recommend a Porter Cable 7424 XP or similar polisher because they are inexpensive, have a shorter 8mm orbit, so they don't create much heat to warp the pads, and they still create lots of paint correcting power. Being free spinning, it is forgiving in that if you tilt it the pad or run it up against a body line it stops rotating instead of burning the paint.

When you get such a machine, I recommend the 5" Lake Country backing plate (make sure to use the fiber washer between the backing plate and machine), and the 5.5" pads. The backing plate it comes with is junk. Get a couple of the Lake Country White pads for now because they are perfect for polishing, which is what you are doing. Draw a mark on the yellow backing plate with a black marker as a visual (more on this later)

Now watch some Youtube videos. But essentially, get the pad damp with product the you need a couple pea sized dots of the product. Now spread it out on low speed like 1 or 2... over a 2' by 2' area. Next crank the speed up to 4 or 5 (I even use 6), and press down hard (usually 10 to 15 lbs). You will hear the OPM change of the machine as it gets loaded, and the foam disc will slow down. Watch that mark. If it gets too slow or stops rotating, you are pressing too hard. If it free-wheels you need to press down more. Now make slow passes in an S shaped pattern keeping it flat and slowly creap it across the area you are working. Do about 4 to 6 passes. Wipe with a microfiber.

Examine paint and if you like what you see, repeat over entire car. At any rate, this is how to use Ultimate Polish. Watch some detailing videos by Superior Shine, Auto Fetish Detail, Mike Phillips /w Autogeek and Show Car Garage, etc. Also watch the Megiar's folks like Jason Rose, Mike Stoops, Mike Pennington etc. There are a ton of folks who polish paint. Watch the speed the move and judge how fast their DA backing plate is rotating and how the machine sounds. Replicate the pressure and arm speed.

After you do this, you might consider buying a finishing pad to apply your wax (use a slow speed like 2), and you may want to buy a cutting foam pad and something like Ultimate Compound to tackle much deeper scratches up to theoretically about 2000 grit sanding marks. When you learn more, you can get different backing plates, pads, pad types, compounds, and polishes. That said, Ultimate Polish is about the best Consumer-Grade polish I have ever seen. It's like 205 but with even more open work time, even easier to wipe off, and it has only slightly less cut (probably about a 3 on the Meguiar's scale where 205 is a 4). Either way it finishes super nice and glossy. What it and also 205 won't do is remove deeper defects. It is purely to remove haze and make brilliant and glossy though on softer paint it it may remove swirls. Just try it to see what it is capable of doing.
 
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Me personally... I polish a car as little as possible. As someone mentioned, polish has abrasives and every time they're used, a small amount of the oxidized clearcoat is taken off. By keeping the car properly waxed, the clearcoat will be protected. If you are not careful washing the car, you'll put swirl marks in the clearcoat and will need to use polish to fix it. Strongly suggest you research proper methods of washing to avoid scratching the finish.

On my personal family cars (all 5 of them) polishing with a DA is only needed once every 3 years or so. I'll always clay the car before polishing. I wax the nice cars (with Collinite) about 3 times a year and the "beaters" only 2x a year. They all have fantastic finishes.

Please note that a lot of people refer to "paint". All modern cars have a clearcoat finish on top of the paint. When polishing or waxing, you are not working on the paint, you're working on the clearcoat. I tend to call that outer surface by it's proper name "clearcoat" or refer to it as the "finish" because, "clearcoat" used to be a trade name of PPG or one of the other big paint companies.

Ray
 
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Make sure you wipe the paint down with IPA after Ultimate Polish. And honestly, it's not doing much as far as correction goes if applied with DA let alone by hand. Just clay it, wipe down with IPA solution and apply wax.
 
Only polish if it absolutely needs it. IMHO, polishing twice a year is overkill and will gradually wear down your clearcoat, potentially leading to clearcoat failure. My rule is, if there is a noticeable collection of swirls, polish, but if it's just a few here and there, or nothing, then just wash, clay, wash, and hit it with a sealant/wax.

If you're getting enough swirls in 6 months to require a polishing, then you need to change your car wash method. Do you hand wash or take it through the automated car wash?
 
I agree with above posters. You should only be using a polish when the paint needs correcting, otherwise, you're wearing off the clear coat for nothing...
 
Using finishing polish (such as Ultimate Polish) with very little correcting abilities removes very little if nothing. I've measured the paint on my cars during the finishing paint correction step (using Meg 205 finishing polish) and the reduction in clear coat (overall paint thickness) can't be even detected. With that said, it's perfectly safe to use this type of polish even twice a year, no sweat at all. The other question is that it might be a bit of an overkill and not really needed.
 
You shouldn't have any swirls or very minimal ones if you use the two bucket wash with grit guards. Use a good car wash product with high lubricity, and use quality microfiber throughout the whole process.
 
*Awesome read - great detail !
Originally Posted by NETWizz
Professionally trained detailer with years of experience here. Ultimate polish is formulated from their Mirror Glaze #205. It is not a wax, so you don't want to let it dry then buff. Instead, it is a minimally abrasive polish using their SMAT abrasives. Basically, polish not wax is what makes paint shine. The wax is a protectant. This product can can cut out some light swirls especially in soft paint but like any polished it has to be worked against the paint. Although it can be used by hand, the proper tool is a Dual-Action polisher known in the industry as a DA. Basically, you might get 5% of this product's capabilities by hand, but it will really come alive if you get a DA.

I would recommend a Porter Cable 7424 XP or similar polisher because they are inexpensive, have a shorter 8mm orbit, so they don't create much heat to warp the pads, and they still create lots of paint correcting power. Being free spinning, it is forgiving in that if you tilt it the pad or run it up against a body line it stops rotating instead of burning the paint.

When you get such a machine, I recommend the 5" Lake Country backing plate (make sure to use the fiber washer between the backing plate and machine), and the 5.5" pads. The backing plate it comes with is junk. Get a couple of the Lake Country White pads for now because they are perfect for polishing, which is what you are doing. Draw a mark on the yellow backing plate with a black marker as a visual (more on this later)

Now watch some Youtube videos. But essentially, get the pad damp with product the you need a couple pea sized dots of the product. Now spread it out on low speed like 1 or 2... over a 2' by 2' area. Next crank the speed up to 4 or 5 (I even use 6), and press down hard (usually 10 to 15 lbs). You will hear the OPM change of the machine as it gets loaded, and the foam disc will slow down. Watch that mark. If it gets too slow or stops rotating, you are pressing too hard. If it free-wheels you need to press down more. Now make slow passes in an S shaped pattern keeping it flat and slowly creap it across the area you are working. Do about 4 to 6 passes. Wipe with a microfiber.

Examine paint and if you like what you see, repeat over entire car. At any rate, this is how to use Ultimate Polish. Watch some detailing videos by Superior Shine, Auto Fetish Detail, Mike Phillips /w Autogeek and Show Car Garage, etc. Also watch the Megiar's folks like Jason Rose, Mike Stoops, Mike Pennington etc. There are a ton of folks who polish paint. Watch the speed the move and judge how fast their DA backing plate is rotating and how the machine sounds. Replicate the pressure and arm speed.

After you do this, you might consider buying a finishing pad to apply your wax (use a slow speed like 2), and you may want to buy a cutting foam pad and something like Ultimate Compound to tackle much deeper scratches up to theoretically about 2000 grit sanding marks. When you learn more, you can get different backing plates, pads, pad types, compounds, and polishes. That said, Ultimate Polish is about the best Consumer-Grade polish I have ever seen. It's like 205 but with even more open work time, even easier to wipe off, and it has only slightly less cut (probably about a 3 on the Meguiar's scale where 205 is a 4). Either way it finishes super nice and glossy. What it and also 205 won't do is remove deeper defects. It is purely to remove haze and make brilliant and glossy though on softer paint it it may remove swirls. Just try it to see what it is capable of doing.
 
Originally Posted by parshisa
Make sure you wipe the paint down with IPA after Ultimate Polish. And honestly, it's not doing much as far as correction goes if applied with DA let alone by hand. Just clay it, wipe down with IPA solution and apply wax.

*IPA stands for___ ?
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
You shouldn't have any swirls or very minimal ones if you use the two bucket wash with grit guards. Use a good car wash product with high lubricity, and use quality microfiber throughout the whole process.

*I take it grit guards are wash buckets with ripples in the botom for grit to settle into ?
 
If you can't get hold of ipa (or you're too tight fisted like me, as you can only buy it in tiny expensive bottles in Australia), A 50/50 mix of mentholated spirits (basically 50% water / 50% ethanol) works absolute wonders at lifting off polishing oils and any left over residue. Leaves the paint very naked and allows your wax or sealant to really bond well with the paint.

On my daily Saab 9-5 I now use AutoGlym Super Resin Polish (SRP) with a long throw DA applied at a medium speed and allow to dry / harden. Don't use too much as it'll cake, it's is a very mild abrasive, but is filler (resin
wink.gif
heavy. Use it to fill that last annoying spider web that I can never seem to get
smile.gif


Once buffed off and looking awesome, you can just leave it like that. The resins in SRP will protect the paint very well, however.

Best to apply AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection (EGP) and allow to harden for 30-60 minutes, depending on the temp. On my single stage cars, I just use EGP after the metho[/] wipe down, (no SRP) as getting the last nasty spider web out of a single stage paint is far easier.

Only trouble is that like most wax's and sealants, they're dust magnets
frown.gif
Quick blast with the hose and a microfibre wipe down has it looking pro in no time however.

Jordan
 
The Grit Guard , two bucket wash approach will help to reduce swirls I had (another primary reason I used polish) ... With my paint in better shape with no need for paint correction I can skip the polish step for now .
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by parshisa
Make sure you wipe the paint down with IPA after Ultimate Polish. And honestly, it's not doing much as far as correction goes if applied with DA let alone by hand. Just clay it, wipe down with IPA solution and apply wax.

*IPA stands for___ ?


India Pale Ale...Lol!
 
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Originally Posted by NETWizz
Although it can be used by hand, the proper tool is a Dual-Action polisher known in the industry as a DA. Basically, you might get 5% of this product's capabilities by hand, but it will really come alive if you get a DA.


I don't do this for a business but I've used the Meguiars products for decades completely by hand and have gotten great results. Plus I'm sure there is less removal of clear coat when done by hand which can be a good thing with very minor swirls. So in other words, maybe you do want 5% of the capability at times.

I would agree with those that say to use the Meguiar's Ultimate Polish as little as possible. I don't care if it removes even a miniscule amount of clear coat. If you don't need it, don't use it. You can also just a glaze like Show Car 7 which I understand has no abrasives but still has the polishing oils of the Ultimate Polish to bring out depth of gloss.
 
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
Show Car 7 which I understand has no abrasives but still has the polishing oils of the Ultimate Polish to bring out depth of gloss.


It's basically full of fillers.
glaze = filler

Regards
Jordan
 
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