Subaru TR580 Lineartronic CVT - Drain and Refill

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Last week, I performed a 30K service on a 2014 Subaru XV CrossTrek where I recommended a CVT Fluid Drain and Refill. The owner agreed. So, I took some pictures to document the process. I have noticed that a number of folks on this site own Subarus so they may find this information to be helpful.

First, I recommend performing the fluid change when the vehicle is cold (sitting for at least 6 hours). You will see why.

For the CrossTrek, the specified fluid is now Genuine Subaru CVTF-II, part #SOA427V1660 (pics 1 and 2). MSRP is $14.50/qt. You will need 6 quarts, but I recommend picking up 7 quarts just in case.

Loosen the fill plug before removing the drain plug. IIRC it takes a 8mm hex bit socket. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain. You should remove about 5.5 quarts (pic 3). Install a new drain plug gasket (803916010) and re-install plug, torque to spec if desired.

Re-fill the fluid with a driveline filler, but be sure to dedicate a unit just for CVT Fluid. I have been told that any contamination with non-CVT transmission fluids can be problematic. So, I purchased a new one, an Assenmacher #ATFBasic. The angled adapter works fine. Add 4 quarts thru the fill hole with the engine off. Then, start the engine, add an additional 2 quarts and finger-tighten the fill plug. Note: I added 6 quarts to the tool and was able to pump in about ~5.75 quarts (pic 4).

With the engine running, move the gear selector from P->R->N->D and back to P. It is important to start with a cold engine because the fluid level check must be performed when the CVT fluid is between 95F and 113F. A scan tool that is capable of reading the transmission temp is highly recommended. I prefer to perform my level check at 95F to have more fluid in the transmission. However, you should start with a cold transmission because the engine idle speed takes a while to drop to a normal level (during the warm-up process), and an excessively high idle speed will impact your fluid level. This vehicle sat for 6 hours prior to the transmission service and the fluid temp was still at 84F. (pic 5)

Continue to shift thru each gear selector position until the transmission fluid temp reaches 95F. At this point, return to the "P" position and remove the fill plug. If you pumped in ~5.75 quarts like I did, about 4-6 ounces should drain out. When the fluid draining out becomes a very, very thin stream, re-install the fill plug and you are done!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQnGh0UFfks

I hope this helps folks who are considering a transmission service on their Subaru CVT.



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Nicely done!

I have to admit that I paid the dealer to do this for our Legacy and I'll do the same for the FXT soon, since I'm under their extended warranty for the CVT in both of our Subies.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Nicely done!

I have to admit that I paid the dealer to do this for our Legacy and I'll do the same for the FXT soon, since I'm under their extended warranty for the CVT in both of our Subies.


What did they charge you? The local dealer here quoted $250.
 
Nice post.

Amsoil now ships some lubricants in a plastic pouch/bag with a plastic nozzle. Could you get CVT fluid in those and skip the filling machine? Or no room?

I need to do Subaru's (maybe only Forester) in the spring.
 
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Originally Posted by gathermewool
Nicely done!
I have to admit that I paid the dealer to do this for our Legacy and I'll do the same for the FXT soon, since I'm under their extended warranty for the CVT in both of our Subies.

I would highly recommend that you harass the dealer well in advance about the special high torque fluid the FXT needs.
I started having issues with my tranny around 80kmiles and took the FXT back to the dealer of purchase for repairs under the 100k extended CVT warranty.
I reminded them at that time that the turbo needed special fluid...it is a different color than the standard fluid, although I don't recall the colors at this point. Let's say standard was green and high torque was orange.
After picking the car up, I noticed that the invoice for the repair mentioned the CVTF-II fluid. I hadn't heard that name before and called back to make sure it was the high torque flavor.
The service advisor talked to the mechanic and called me back to say the fluid that went in was green just like it should be and the same as the fluid they took out before the repair.
I told him that I had read that orange was the proper color. He told me I was wrong and I took his word for it, we ended the call.
The mechanic called me back 15 minutes later and asked if I could bring the car back the next day.
This dealer had also done my 60kmile service, so it apparently had the wrong fluid in for 20kmiles...I wonder if this contributed to the need for repair.

If the dealers can't keep this straight, how is anybody supposed to?
 
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Nicely done!
I have to admit that I paid the dealer to do this for our Legacy and I'll do the same for the FXT soon, since I'm under their extended warranty for the CVT in both of our Subies.

I would highly recommend that you harass the dealer well in advance about the special high torque fluid the FXT needs.
I started having issues with my tranny around 80kmiles and took the FXT back to the dealer of purchase for repairs under the 100k extended CVT warranty.
I reminded them at that time that the turbo needed special fluid...it is a different color than the standard fluid, although I don't recall the colors at this point. Let's say standard was green and high torque was orange.
After picking the car up, I noticed that the invoice for the repair mentioned the CVTF-II fluid. I hadn't heard that name before and called back to make sure it was the high torque flavor.
The service advisor talked to the mechanic and called me back to say the fluid that went in was green just like it should be and the same as the fluid they took out before the repair.
I told him that I had read that orange was the proper color. He told me I was wrong and I took his word for it, we ended the call.
The mechanic called me back 15 minutes later and asked if I could bring the car back the next day.
This dealer had also done my 60kmile service, so it apparently had the wrong fluid in for 20kmiles...I wonder if this contributed to the need for repair.

If the dealers can't keep this straight, how is anybody supposed to?


And to make matters worse, both BG and MOC (commonly used by dealers for customer-pay maintenance work) say their universal CVT Fluid can be used in BOTH applications.

https://mocproducts.com/product/04172/
http://www.bgfox.com/docs/318_Application_Chart-8-2017.pdf

Subaru has clearly stated in various TSBs that the orange high-torque CVT fluid and the blue/green CVTF-II cannot be interchanged and transmission damage will result.
 
The process required is not so much different than what I had to do on my 2004 VW Passat with the ZF Tiptronic and no dipstick or fill tube.

Cold car, level on 4 jack stands, after pan drop, filter change, re&re pan, then fill with pump, start car and let it warm up, keep topping up fluid with pump as the transmission pan reaches 45C (I'm going from memory) and then wait for fluid to stop dribbling and then tighten the fill plug. I used a laser guided Infrared temperature gun to verify the pan temperature.

Hardest part of this job was getting the car onto and off the 4 jack stands.
 
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Originally Posted by KGMtech


Hardest part of this job was getting the car onto and off the 4 jack stands.


That is why I use 4 ramps.. even if you can only drive onto 2 and have to jack and lower it onto the other 2.. its way easier.
 
I like those bottles with the long necks. Makes it very easy to pour
smile.gif


Too bad Napa stopped using them for their house brand oil and ATF
 
Originally Posted by The Critic

And to make matters worse, both BG and MOC (commonly used by dealers for customer-pay maintenance work) say their universal CVT Fluid can be used in BOTH applications.

https://mocproducts.com/product/04172/
http://www.bgfox.com/docs/318_Application_Chart-8-2017.pdf

Subaru has clearly stated in various TSBs that the orange high-torque CVT fluid and the blue/green CVTF-II cannot be interchanged and transmission damage will result.

I wonder if I would have gotten the right fluid if I had a WRX with a CVT.
I think even Subaru mechanics forget that the turbo Foresters exist...maybe they had no reason to pop the hood for that job and didn't notice the intercooler?
 
Thanks for posting this Critic. I've asked my Subaru dealer about doing a CVT drain and fill service but they flat out refuse until the car has 100,000 miles. Way to long an interval according to what I've read on the 'net. The job seems similar to a front differential drain and fill with a bit more measuring of the fluid. Pretty sure I can handle this.
 
I like that fluid pumper with the 'hook' outlet and ball valve. Talk about perfect for these fill from underneath transmissions.

How did that drained fluid look @ 30K miles compared to other CVTs? I know the fluid from the Jatco unit in our 2016 Nissan quest was nearly black at ~30K. OEM color is blue.

The refill was in kind of a weird spot on my 2016 Forester CVT as compared to this 2014.
 
Originally Posted by JTK
I like that fluid pumper with the 'hook' outlet and ball valve. Talk about perfect for these fill from underneath transmissions.

How did that drained fluid look @ 30K miles compared to other CVTs? I know the fluid from the Jatco unit in our 2016 Nissan quest was nearly black at ~30K. OEM color is blue.

The refill was in kind of a weird spot on my 2016 Forester CVT as compared to this 2014.


The drained fluid looked fine - it was medium brown.
 
Thanks Critic for sharing this, very helpful. Really appreciate the write-up.

Do you have any experience or information doing a CVT fluid change on a 2018 Subaru CrossTrek?

I am all set to complete one on our 2018 but there appears to be another challenge. The exhaust pipe routing is different than on earlier years of CrossTreks. The exhaust pipe is now on the driver's side of the engine, very close to the refill plug area. It will make getting the fill plug out rather difficult. I'm also concerned about the heat from the exhaust and getting burnt or melting the driveline filler tubing while working in that small space.

There's an exhaust pipe hanger bracket on the rear of the transmission case that can be disconnected and allows the exhaust pipe to be lowered an inch or so. Still very little room to work.

Noticed that on the passengers side of the CV transmission case there is a plug that looks just like the refill plug that is on the driver's side. It seems to be just about the same height above the top of the transmission pan as the driver's side plug. Do you know if this is an acceptable refill plug for the CVT fluid and would allow me to get the fill level correct? Didn't want to break it open without having any idea if this is an alternate fill plug or something else entirely.

I recently completed the front differential fluid change and successfully located the refill plug for the front diff.

The plug I'm wondering about is on the CVT case on the passengers side. It's not the front diff refill plug.

Thank you for any help you can offer.
 
Ok thank you. I'll get the car off the ground in a week or two and take some decent pictures of both sides of the transmission case and the exhaust pipe clearance issue.

Would be really convenient if the plug on the passenger's side served the same purpose as the known refill plug on the driver's side of the transmission. Not having to deal with the exhaust pipe heat and clearance issues would make things a lot simpler

The extension or something like that might work if the refill has to be done on the driver's side.
 
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Here is a photo from the passenger's side of the transmission showing the plug in question. Looks very similar to the known refill plug that is located on the driver's side. With the exhaust pipe now relocated to the driver's side it leaves this area clear with plenty of space to work. I will get a photo up soon showing the exhaust pipe issue on the driver's side.
 
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