So my plow truck is a 78 chevy k20. I think it has a 10si alternator. When plowing i usually have the heat on high, all lights on, and an overhead 12v plug in rotating beacon. Today i shut my truck off and it would not restart. It cranked over super slow like one turn over every second. I have not checked anything with a volt meter. The dash volt meter reads above 13v with everything running. The battery is about 5 years old. Does this sound like i am just drawing to much current from the battery? I would think the charging system could keep up considering the only thing thats being powered thats not normally is the 12v beacon light. Having the heat on and the lights on should not cause the battery to run down. The plow is run off a belt driven hydraulic pump so that is not drawing any electrical power.
charging issue, battery, or alternator problem.
- Thread starter joegreen
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Battery needs replacement. While you are in there, check your alternator belt for wear and proper tension.
Originally Posted by joegreen
Today i shut my truck off and it would not restart. It cranked over super slow like one turn over every second.
The dash volt meter reads above 13v with everything running.
1) Weak starter - - very common on these to crank slow when they are hot
2) bad battery cables or terminals
Today i shut my truck off and it would not restart. It cranked over super slow like one turn over every second.
The dash volt meter reads above 13v with everything running.
1) Weak starter - - very common on these to crank slow when they are hot
2) bad battery cables or terminals
You need to rule things out. Is the truck on the road or farm only? Fully charge the battery with an AC charger and have it tested, preferably load tested with 1/2 the CCA for 15 seconds and read the voltage. Then move on to charging system. Use a accurate voltmeter to measure the voltage at the battery and keep turning on things to see if the voltage falls off.
If you rule those two things out, then maybe look at the starter. Also cables and clamps. Starter solenoid.
I was once thinking of that kind of plow setup, hydraulic pump driven off a 5.7L Chevy engine. I found a plow for sale on CL pretty cheap. But I was told I would never be able to buy parts. I got a large snowblower instead.
If you rule those two things out, then maybe look at the starter. Also cables and clamps. Starter solenoid.
I was once thinking of that kind of plow setup, hydraulic pump driven off a 5.7L Chevy engine. I found a plow for sale on CL pretty cheap. But I was told I would never be able to buy parts. I got a large snowblower instead.
Looks like everyone covered most of the bases. I'll just add that don't do what I sometimes do - put on blinders, skip the proper diagnostic procedures, and start replacing stuff based on hunches. I fought a similar problem on an old Ford pickup, only to find out the main wire from the battery to the starter had corroded internally (no visual signs) and did not transfer enough energy to the starter.
^^^^, "...the main wire from the battery to the starter had corroded internally (no visual signs) and did not transfer enough energy to the starter."^^^^
I have such a corroded wire from my friend's '89 Chevy. Drove us mad. He too kept changing Advance Auto Parts starters. UGGHH
I have such a corroded wire from my friend's '89 Chevy. Drove us mad. He too kept changing Advance Auto Parts starters. UGGHH
X THREE ! that was the cause of the Rat's starter troubles. A stupid cable! Your truck is twice as old as the Rat.
The truck is sort of an extra vehicle. It never really gets used. I use it to plow my driveway and occasionally drive it around so the brakes stay functional. It uses to much fuel to daily drive. I would like it to start reliable though. I'll check out those suggestions.
Originally Posted by Donald
You need to rule things out. Is the truck on the road or farm only? Fully charge the battery with an AC charger and have it tested, preferably load tested with 1/2 the CCA for 15 seconds and read the voltage. Then move on to charging system. Use a accurate voltmeter to measure the voltage at the battery and keep turning on things to see if the voltage falls off.
If you rule those two things out, then maybe look at the starter. Also cables and clamps. Starter solenoid.
I was once thinking of that kind of plow setup, hydraulic pump driven off a 5.7L Chevy engine. I found a plow for sale on CL pretty cheap. But I was told I would never be able to buy parts. I got a large snowblower instead.
I'm not so sure about parts either but really the only thing that could go bad is the pump. Other than that it's just hoses and a valve that diverts hydraulic pressure. It's definitely not as fast as an electric setup but with the pump under the hood the fluid stays nice and warm and helps prevent plow freezup.
You need to rule things out. Is the truck on the road or farm only? Fully charge the battery with an AC charger and have it tested, preferably load tested with 1/2 the CCA for 15 seconds and read the voltage. Then move on to charging system. Use a accurate voltmeter to measure the voltage at the battery and keep turning on things to see if the voltage falls off.
If you rule those two things out, then maybe look at the starter. Also cables and clamps. Starter solenoid.
I was once thinking of that kind of plow setup, hydraulic pump driven off a 5.7L Chevy engine. I found a plow for sale on CL pretty cheap. But I was told I would never be able to buy parts. I got a large snowblower instead.
I'm not so sure about parts either but really the only thing that could go bad is the pump. Other than that it's just hoses and a valve that diverts hydraulic pressure. It's definitely not as fast as an electric setup but with the pump under the hood the fluid stays nice and warm and helps prevent plow freezup.
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A lot of good advice .
Do you have a volt ohm meter ?
Start testing voltages , from the battery posts / terminals , cable clamps , cables , frame ground and engine / starter ground .
You said the battery is 5 years old . Can you check the electrolyte / acid level & add pure water as needed ( I go to the water mill express & pay $ .25 for a gallon ) .
Personally , I rarely get more than 4 years out of a Walmart battery .
Do you have a volt ohm meter ?
Start testing voltages , from the battery posts / terminals , cable clamps , cables , frame ground and engine / starter ground .
You said the battery is 5 years old . Can you check the electrolyte / acid level & add pure water as needed ( I go to the water mill express & pay $ .25 for a gallon ) .
Personally , I rarely get more than 4 years out of a Walmart battery .
Park it where you can throw a charger and extension cord on it about every month when the weather's nice. 6 amps for a few hours, longer if the ammeter shows it's still "hungry".
You might not be getting the RPMs to charge at yard-plowing speeds.
You might not be getting the RPMs to charge at yard-plowing speeds.
Havent checked anything yet but the truck did start yesterday when i went out to plow again. Two things you guys should know. While i was rebuilding my transmission for a year the battery went flat. I checked the fluid level and recharged it once the transmission went back in. That was around july 1st. So the battery could have suffered some damage. Also when i went back out plowing i payed attention to the volt meter on the dash. It went below 13v when the headlights, parking lights, heat, and beacon were all on. The headlights and the heat being the two biggest draws. So that is probably where my issue lies? Is the alternator just not turning over fast enough to get the voltage up or is it an alternator problem? The rpms generally stay between idle and 2000 rpm when plowing.
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