soliciting opinions

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Ok so when I first started following BITOG I was doing an oil lchange on my 2009 Kia Sedona 3.8L which specs for 5w-20. I grabbed the wrong bottle of oil off the shelf and ended up with Mobil 1 HM 10w-30. I didn't have the receipt and I felt fairly confident that after reading the threads on here that it was not going to be a big deal especially in the warmer weather so I used it. I also noticed that the oil was rated for 10,000 miles, and considering the vehicle is spec'd for 7500 ocis i figured it would be ok. Additionally, I bought that little Lubricheck device (which I am not saying is right or wrong) because I am a nerd who likes that sort of thing to try out.

Nonetheless I monitored the condition of the oil as the miles accumulated from August until yesterday. The device seemed to be indicating that the oil was wearing because it did go down each time I checked (about 2500 miles). I only added 1/2 quart to the mix during the first 7500 of the oci so things seemed to be fine. So yesterday I did the check again @9622 miles and the light is blinking to change immediately. It returned the same result 2 more times. I had the stuff for the next oil change so I changed the oil, which was Mobil 1 Annual Protection 0w-20 because I was hoping to get through the winter if possible without having to deal with the elements. I drive a lot of rideshare miles so they add up to frequent oil changes otherwise which is fine but a pain in the winter.

The thing is that the old oil was like so so much thicker than the new stuff. I know that one was a 30w and the other 20w, but this was really a big difference. The oil level was fine and everything and like I said I put 1/2 a quart in over nearly 10k miles so that is normal. Prior to that oil change the vehicle had a perfect oil change/maintenance record but I used conventional. This was the first time I used a synthetic and high mileage oil.

Over the months I have read about the differing opinions about the cleaning power of motor oils, and even Mobil says that if the engine is sludged up do one or 2 short ocis. I didn't think that the engine would have any sludge because it has been meticulously maintained.

So between the lubricheck results and just the marked difference how "thicc" they seemed I am sending in for a UOA and will share results.. In the meantime, I wanted thoughts/opinions on whether I am out of my mind or there may be a reason for this at such a low oci mileage.
 
I think you're doing OK. Changing out the 10w30 M1 HM at 9600 miles is not very "early", if you were intending to go exactly 10k miles. That's only 4% off.
Putting in the 0w20 right before the cold weather kicks in is a good move, considering you live in NY.
I predict the Lubricheck device will give you the same result on the 0w20.
 
Badduxx, it's interesting for me to hear about the long (compared to the Canadian specs) recommended OCI. I also have a 2009 Sedona with the 3.8 litre H/K Lamba engine. For what it's worth, the oil filler cap specifies 5W-20, but the owner's manual specifies 10W-30 down to -18 C (0 F), and 5W-20 or 0W-20 for temperatures below that (with the scale cut off somewhere below -30 C). All three weights of oil are stated to be good right to the top of the ambient range (> 50 C).

I ran Mobil 1 5W-30 this past May into early November, and recently switched to Mobil 1 5w-20 for the winter. Per other threads here on BITOG, I'm trying to minimize timing chain wear, and so am balancing using a tight (i.e. narrow) viscosity range (e.g. 5W-20 is narrow, 0W-40 is wide) and a higher W number (that is, 10W is better than 5W is better than 0W for reducing timing chain wear). But, my other considerations are minimizing particulate matter in the oil (again, to reduce timing chain wear) and minimizing cold-weather start-up wear (for which, at our temperatures, 0W is better than 5W, and 5W is better than 10W). It's a bit of a balancing act, so I'm doing fairly short (twice yearly) intervals with a 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, or 5W-30 in the winter, and a 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the summer.

Back to the different OCIs for the US and Canada - your US manual specifies 7.5K miles for the US, and my Canadian owner's manual specifies 8K km (about 5k miles). So, the Canadian OCI is 2/3 that of the US OCI! (My '09 Mazda owner's manual specifies a severe-usage OCI [5K km] as well as normal-usage OCI [8K km], but Kia does not.)

As you know, the '09 Sedona does not have an OLM, but my last work truck (a 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500 w/ the 6.0 litre gasoline engine) had one, and it consistently was down to < 10% after about 10K - 11K km (6K - 7K miles). That may not have been a valid comparison, but it's all I've got.

I don't think you can go wrong shortening up your OCIs a bit. Oil is cheap, and engine repairs are expensive. Plus, the Sedona is probably the easiest vehicle I've ever changed oil on.
 
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Originally Posted by badduxx
In the meantime, I wanted thoughts/opinions on whether I am out of my mind or there may be a reason for this at such a low oci mileage.

You are not out of your mind. UOA will be your guide.
 
I wouldn't worry about the monitoring device. Going 9600 miles on one OCI is good IMO. I think the UOA will come back fine unless there's something else you haven't mentioned.
 
Mobil1 HM 10w-30 starts out as a rather thick 30W. Your Lubricheck will serve you well if used correctly (clean, clean, clean. The engine oil and Lubricheck MUST be at the same temperature). And yes, StevieC, they do work. I've been using mine for about 5 years. Patman: Go to the Lubricheck site for answers to your question.
 
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