Originally Posted by Astro14
Then you're low. Please see the posted chart.
I saw the posted chart, and other than the max high/min low lines, I don't think it's any more useful than the two I already have or the one posted by @StevieC earlier. The chart, and the data it contains, is not an issue for me. It would appear as though extracting more than I put back in is my issue...though if I started out at correct level and replaced what I removed, I still cannot find where I lost the missing fluid...I am thinking it must have been the communists.
Originally Posted by Astro14
These often leak from the connector plug, and will often wick fluid up the wiring to the TCU. I would do a pan drop, filter change, and swap out the connector plug, then refill according to the chart. Dead level ground, idling in park/neutral, and use a good scanner, or even an IR gun on the pan, to know where your level should be.
I dropped the pan, cleaned it & and the magnet, and replaced the filter back in June. I also inspected the infamous connector plug for signs of foul-play but did not see any at the time. Ironically enough, I actually inspected it again 4 nights ago when I was under the car trying to figure out why everyone keeps saying I will have to remove the start to change the Crank Position Sensor. There was still no outward signs of trouble at home with the plug or anywhere else on the outside of the transmission, at that time.
I have used an IR gun on the pan just to see how closely it would get me to the actual temperature, and it was surprisingly inaccurate. When the fluid inside it was at 170F, the IR gun aimed at the pan only read back 145-150F. That is not an issue for me, as my EVIC will tell me the transmission fluid temperature if I navigate through the Vehicle Info menu and down to the bottom of the list...well not the VERY bottom, that is reserved for the engine's run-time hours and idling hours...but just above those it will show me the transmission fluid temp.
But only if I am not in Park. If I am in Park and flip to that screen, the temperature it reads out is just the ECT number. Strange, but not crazy...crazy is that it does not have any indication the number in P is not the true trans fluid temp. That seems a little risky to me, but whatever. They didn't ask me how to build their software, so I won't tell them how to make it better.
Originally Posted by Astro14
It's not simple and it's not easy to get this level correct.
I agree, it is not simple, nor is it easy to get the level correct. However, I do not believe it is as much of a big deal as it's made out to be if the fluid level is not correct when the transmission is put back on the road. I mean, I'm at roughly half of the fluid that I am supposed to be running, and it's been like that for days and days evidently, not to mention I've done some decent stunt driving during that period. Yet, not one hiccup or flared shift or delay in responding to my commands to shift during this time of meager fluid.
Are these transmissions just that tough? Eh, possibly...it's also just as likely IMHO that this notion that an incorrect fluid level will cause irreparable harm to the transmission has been blown out of proportion. I am not saying it's good for them, nor would I recommend anyone do it just for kicks, but surely the transmissions aren't so brittle that they can't absorb the shock of being on the wagon for a few days....