Hello, i have a 08 lacrosse with 65000 miles very well maintained..I was driving around this morning, made several stops and my low fuel light came on, so I put about two gallon in at gas station cause I have 10 gallons at home ..Anyway I drove the car after I got fuel about two miles , parked it on a incline with the nose facing down and shut off car. About an hour later I go to leave and the car started briefly for about two or three seconds , then stalled out...I went to start again and it would not start, battery is strong, the drive belt is turning when I crank it, but it just wont start. no codes coming up...any suggestions, before I have it towed,,,I did in the meantime put another five gallons in so I have 1/2 tank of fresh gas in it..
008 lacrosse started, stalled and now wont start
- Thread starter lucerne06
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With so little fuel in the tank and I'm guessing this is the norm there could be a fair amount of water in the fuel. Fill the tank up, all the way and see how it runs. Keeping it full during the winter time will help keep water out of the fuel system.
i vote for fuel pump failure
Originally Posted by lucerne06
would it just go that fast, with no warning...
Absolutely! 01 Pontiac suddenly died while driving. Thought it stalled out, would not start again. Take the gas filter off, and try starting it. It should SPRAY fuel if working correctly.
would it just go that fast, with no warning...
Absolutely! 01 Pontiac suddenly died while driving. Thought it stalled out, would not start again. Take the gas filter off, and try starting it. It should SPRAY fuel if working correctly.
See if you can hear the pump energize when you turn the key on. I'm not a fan of running the tank so low, the fuel in the tank keeps the pump cool and extends life.
It's also possible running the fuel low is a red herring and you have something else going on like crank position sensor. Check for fuel, injectior pulse and spark.
It's also possible running the fuel low is a red herring and you have something else going on like crank position sensor. Check for fuel, injectior pulse and spark.
Super cheap, random fix...disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect. Sometimes things get weird in the computer and it just needs a reset. Other than that, seems like things are pointing to what others have said. Hope you get it figured out quickly and easily!
Take a rubber mallet (or the like) and using mild force bang on the bottom of the fuel tank; one good "whack" will usually do it. Alot of times that will get it going to get home, but do not drive it again without replacing the pump.
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Start at the beginning, Check fuel injector and fuel pump fuses first then as someone posted spray a bit of starting fluid down it, if it fires the ignition is ok and its time to move on. Go to Horror Freight spend $20 and get this..
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html
Connect it to the fuel rail schrader valve and have someone turn the key on while you look at the gauge. If it has about 35-43 psi its time to get a fuel sample.
Turn the key off,release the pressure at the valve and disconnect the line at the rail,have someone turn the key on and take a sample in a large jar or clean clear bottle.
If it has water it will separate. A momentary on off of the key will do it, it will flow but with no real pressure because its open.
If no separation you need a noid light to plug into the injector harness to see it they are firing, there are other ways but for under the shade tree the noid is easiest.
Its probably a failed pump but this is not cheap for this car so its best to check it out first. Use only OE parts for this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html
Connect it to the fuel rail schrader valve and have someone turn the key on while you look at the gauge. If it has about 35-43 psi its time to get a fuel sample.
Turn the key off,release the pressure at the valve and disconnect the line at the rail,have someone turn the key on and take a sample in a large jar or clean clear bottle.
If it has water it will separate. A momentary on off of the key will do it, it will flow but with no real pressure because its open.
If no separation you need a noid light to plug into the injector harness to see it they are firing, there are other ways but for under the shade tree the noid is easiest.
Its probably a failed pump but this is not cheap for this car so its best to check it out first. Use only OE parts for this.
some of these cars had a problem with the rear seat foam pushing against fuse panel under seat and damaged fuel pump relay socket in fuse panel making it loose and not allowing fuel pump to turn on. Remove seat bottom and find fuel pump relay in front of box should be listed on lid of box and pull it out and look at pins or have some one crank while pushing or wiggling on relay. If it works a TSB on this shows you where to modify seat under side to prevent this happening again and replace fuse box which is easy to do.
OK gearheads...heres the story so far... Had a helper this morning turn the key off and on a few times , each time I can hear the fuel pump running, second did a pressure test, it registered around 60. then I sprayed starting fluid into intake TWICE, still have a crank but no start...then I noticed the middle coil pack had a big crack on it and was warm to the touch after trying to crank a few times , the other coils were cold,,,,so I replaced the middle coil bank # 2 and 5...but alas still no start..and it was warm again, the only one out of the three...also got a code 0455, but that is emissions, check gas cap which I had off...any thoughts
Originally Posted by lucerne06
OK gearheads...heres the story so far... Had a helper this morning turn the key off and on a few times , each time I can hear the fuel pump running, second did a pressure test, it registered around 60. then I sprayed starting fluid into intake TWICE, still have a crank but no start...then I noticed the middle coil pack had a big crack on it and was warm to the touch after trying to crank a few times , the other coils were cold,,,,so I replaced the middle coil bank # 2 and 5...but alas still no start..and it was warm again, the only one out of the three...also got a code 0455, but that is emissions, check gas cap which I had off...any thoughts
The ignition module may have failed. You need to start doing some testing.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ignition-module-and-crank-sensor-test-1
OK gearheads...heres the story so far... Had a helper this morning turn the key off and on a few times , each time I can hear the fuel pump running, second did a pressure test, it registered around 60. then I sprayed starting fluid into intake TWICE, still have a crank but no start...then I noticed the middle coil pack had a big crack on it and was warm to the touch after trying to crank a few times , the other coils were cold,,,,so I replaced the middle coil bank # 2 and 5...but alas still no start..and it was warm again, the only one out of the three...also got a code 0455, but that is emissions, check gas cap which I had off...any thoughts
The ignition module may have failed. You need to start doing some testing.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/ignition-module-and-crank-sensor-test-1
Replace the 2 coils you didn't replace.
So if it was the ignition control module all along, I can see replacing the one coil that was cracked but why replace the other ones with only 65k on them, they could last a long time.
What part caused the other to fail? How do you know the other 2 have no internal damage that may or may not develop later and damage the new module. Heat is the enemy of electronics and electrical systems.
The only thing I was going by is he said the other two were cold. Just not a big believer in changing out parts just to change them out. If they are factory coils they are most likely better than after market.
But I get where you are coming from beings you see this stuff more than me.
But I get where you are coming from beings you see this stuff more than me.
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