Ecoboost Timing Chains

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So I'm getting a P0016 on our 2014 Explorer Sport with the 3.5L Ecoboost. Everything I've read indicates this is due to worn timing chains which seems to be a significant repair. Has anybody tackled this job themselves? I have seen some people spending $800-$1000 on parts for DIY with shop costs well over $2k.

I've done a lot of different repairs and mods in the past, sure I could probably do this as well. Just a hate spending that much on parts alone! Plus, it literally JUST got cold. The wife is the primary driver of this Explorer and she loves it, but its got 100k and I already had to grind and paint some rust spots. Would it be worth tackling this or would you just look for a trade in? My only hesitation is that she wants to get an even MORE expensive vehicle like a Tahoe or Expedition next
crazy2.gif


Any ideas on how bad it would be to "just drive it" for an unknown period of time until I get around to fixing it?
 
You been changing the oil in on the regular? Seems awfully early for a worn out internal engine part. How do you know it's really the timing chain and not a sensor in there throwing a CEL?
 
Is it possible it's not phasing the cam properly and this is causing the code because it's out of timing and not due to a worn chain? I would have it properly diagnosed before condemning it because it could be a far less expensive problem than you think.
 
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Does it rattle when started cold or after sitting overnight? That seems to be the telltale sign that the chains and/or tensioners are loose in the EB 3.5. If not it may be a bad sensor or wiring. Can you scan the OBD and watch it real time?

As far as driving it like that - if it's rattling fix it ASAP especially if you have the CEL. The engine is interference so it could get expensive quick. My SHO rattles on startup but no CEL. At 128k I'm planning to drive it until CEL.
 
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We've only had it since 70k, but I change the oil every 5k with synthetic due to the nature of the GTDI engine. No rattle on start up but I have noticed slightly diminishing power. The timing chains are a known issue, with a TSB stating that the P0016 on my model year indicates a chain wear issue.
 
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Most likely water pump is already worn along with timing chains out but because timing chains run the water pump also and it is a problem. On Youtube find a guy Fordtechmakeyouloco he is a former dealer now running his own shop and probably has a video series about it. He will tell you to use factory parts and will show special tools and procedures so you know if you want to do this yourself or not.
 
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Bank 1 Cam/Crank correlation IS usually worn/stretched timing chain as it's the bank furthest from the crankshaft as the timing chain flies. The Bank 1 cam only has to be 1 tooth out to set P0016. The Tensioner can easily make-up that with no noise.
Keep driving it....And will start to make noise once the tensioner is maxed-out.

Timing chain wear/stretch is non-linear from my observations, It quickly goes from bad to worse.
 
Originally Posted by vssjim
On Youtube find a guy Fordtechmakeyouloco he is a former dealer now running his own shop and probably has a video series about it.


LOL................ try " fordtechmakuloco "
 
Does this vehicle have no way to measure chain wear/"stretch"?

Perhaps Im just spoiled with Mercedes engines.

Can an offset key be installed if the wear is that far off?

Does seem young, especially for a gas engine which doesnt necessarily load a lot of soot.
 
Direct injection twin turbos load up soot pretty quickly. The water pump runs off the belt, not chains.
 
Originally Posted by tcp71
Direct injection twin turbos load up soot pretty quickly. The water pump runs off the belt, not chains.


Yep, it's the non turbo 3.5 Ford Duratec that runs the water pump off the chains IIRC.
 
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so what has Ford done to correct this, 4 yr old engine with 100K with good service, seems early to have worn chains unless these EB 3.5 are problematic.
 
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Originally Posted by Jason_Michaels
its mind-boggling that between the 5.4s and these eco boost engines there are so many timing chain issues regardless of maintenance.


Don't forget the 4.0 SOHC's.
 
Originally Posted by Jason_Michaels
its mind-boggling that between the 5.4s and these eco boost engines there are so many timing chain issues regardless of maintenance.


That's not so. Users that choose a higher viscosity oil and change regularly have no problems.

The Ford 6.8L V10 in the trucks (including Uhaul moving trucks) also uses the exact same timing chain setup. The difference is in the oil viscosity.
 
Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by Jason_Michaels
its mind-boggling that between the 5.4s and these eco boost engines there are so many timing chain issues regardless of maintenance.


That's not so. Users that choose a higher viscosity oil and change regularly have no problems.

The Ford 6.8L V10 in the trucks (including Uhaul moving trucks) also uses the exact same timing chain setup. The difference is in the oil viscosity.

Come on now. The engineers are never wrong.
 
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Originally Posted by tcp71
Direct injection twin turbos load up soot pretty quickly. The water pump runs off the belt, not chains.


Yep, it's the non turbo 3.5 Ford Duratec that runs the water pump off the chains IIRC.


All the Ford and Mazda 3.5/3/.7 in transverse applications run the water pump off the chains. Ecoboost or not. It's due to packaging.

Originally Posted by philipp10
So timing chains are an issue on the EB line? Which specific motors? I am thinking of buying a 2.0 in the Escape.


The early Ecoboost 3.5's can stretch the chains. There are many theories floating around from casting debris clogging up the VCT, timing chain materials, owner neglect, you name it. Seems to be limited to 2010-2013 models and the various bits have underwent many revisions. IIRC it's only them that have the issues and even then only certain ones.

My SHO will rattle on startup for a second or two - no CEL and no power loss @ 128k. It's been fed a diet of mostly 5w20 for 70 or 80k and now 5w30, changed at about 7500 miles when the OLM goes off. Once I get the CEL I'll ponder what to do with it.
 
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