Oil for snowblower

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In reference to the machine in this thread:

$150 snowblower score

I plan on changing the oil prior to it's first use this winter. I have a wide range available to me at work:

Amsoil OE in various flavors: 5w-20, 5w-30, etc
Total Quartz 9000 in the aforementioned weights, plus a 10w-30 high mileage I believe
Various M1 blends
Amsoil Euro blend in whatever weight it comes in (5w-40?)

All this is basically cost-equal being as though I'd only need a quart or whatever the engine takes. In all honesty I can just snag a few pints, minus the M1 that we buy in quarts. What would you use?
 
lol, I know, this is BITOG, but your over OCD/ing this. No on the 5w20. Any 5w30 is fine. If you keep your snow blower in the garage and its just around freezing, you could also run 10w30, but most everyone runs 5W.

I have 3 Honda track blowers, $3500. $2800. and $2200. I run Chevron mostly, but will run Supertech, or any other quality 5W30 I have in an open jug, any...

They have ST in them now.

eta; Tip, watch the temp, always try to blow/remove snow before temp rises above 32F, It turns slushy after that, and that's where the Hondas really shine, they throw slushies, others don't.
 
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Well it was worth asking! I figured as much, cheap is just as good. I'll snag a quart of the house 5w-30 and call it good.
 
I actually would've thought that the looser tolerences of an air cooled engine would call for a heavier weight oil. I've always used whatever 10w40 or 15w40 diesel engine oil I happen to have on hand.

Maybe it doesn't really matter as long as it's not on the extreme ends of the viscosity range (lo or hi)?
 
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Well it was worth asking! I figured as much, cheap is just as good. I'll snag a quart of the house 5w-30 and call it good.



Yep, I used to think all my ODE needed synthetic up here in this cold environment, but its not needed for ball bearing splash lube motors. Most people don't put more than 10 hours or so on a snow blower per year, mine take a beating! I change once in the middle of the year, then again when I put them away for the year, also give them a tank full of stable and only use non ethanol fuel, never a problem starting the next year.


Originally Posted by AlaskaMike
I actually would've thought that the looser tolerences of an air cooled engine would call for a heavier weight oil. I've always used whatever 10w40 or 15w40 diesel engine oil I happen to have on hand.

Maybe it doesn't really matter as long as it's not on the extreme ends of the viscosity range (lo or hi)?


You could, probably would not really matter, but 5W30 is what most manufactures spec for oil. Every snow blower motor I have seen uses a ball bearing crankshaft main/rod bearing, splash/drip lube system, they are not picky on oil and take a lot of abuse.

5W20 is a little too light though, 30/40 not a problem.
 
Biggest issue with the Snow King was people never kept them topped off to the top of full mark any 5w30 0w30 0w40 all good
 
Mobil 1 0w40 for over 10 years in the Ariens OHV 12HP no problems, it starts easy and has no measurable wear in the valve train.
I adjusted the valves after the first few hours and again a year later, since then just checked them and they are in spec. with the OHV rockers being the last parts to receive oil its fair to conclude the other parts closest to the lube are probably in good condition also.
 
I typically use 0W30, thinking it might be the tiniest bit easier to start on the colder days. My other vehicles use a 20 or 40 weight, so I have to buy oil just for the snowblower, so I went with the 0W30. If I had 5W30 for something else laying around, I'd probably just have used that.
 
I wouldn't be hesitant to run a 0W-20 or 5W-20 if it was just "Lying around"

I have run small engines on hydraulic fluid (by accident) with no damage - so don't be worried
 
Originally Posted by dave123
Biggest issue with the Snow King was people never kept them topped off to the top of full mark any 5w30 0w30 0w40 all good



lol, The Full mark on All of my threaded fill plugs are; oil dripping out! Screw in little tiny plastic dipstick thingy, wipe off excess...GTG, Check in 8 to 10 tanks of fuel.
 
I'm in the minority, I run Briggs & Stratton small engine 5 W 30 synthetic.Lots of zinc seems to do the job
 
Originally Posted by NHRATA
I'm in the minority, I run Briggs & Stratton small engine 5 W 30 synthetic.Lots of zinc seems to do the job


I honestly think Briggs went synthetic for spec because they figured nobody was "ever" going to change the oil!

Changing oil on a walk behind mower, or snow blower for most people is almost a once in a life time experience. But this is BITOG, so its done every 6 months, or 500 yards! And a UOA!
 
Originally Posted by AlaskaMike
I actually would've thought that the looser tolerences of an air cooled engine would call for a heavier weight oil.


Beware advice from people who don't understand the difference between tolerance and clearance...and can't spell tolerance.
 
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