Have you ever bought after market wheels?
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I bought these knock off BBS CH, and they actually held up really well over about 5 years. I sold it to my brother who starting daily driving it, and promptly peeled one open like a can of tuna. Of course in that time BBS found out and the replicas had to stop, so hes stuck with 3 nice knockoffs.
Yes, for cars, trucks, and bikes. Sometimes they were OEM, but for a different trim package than I had.
I got my jeep with Ultra type 50 already on it. Backspacing comes in handy, but the chrome is best saved for bar stools. I almost did when looking for a set of winters for the RX, instead I got some mint OEM 18s for $350 off CL. No questioning quality as it came off the same car, and quite a bit cheaper than aftermarket wheels that look ridiculous.
Here is some new old style wheels. 17x8 Vision wheels with 265/60-17V Goodyear cop spec tires on a 2013 Tahoe PPV. The Goodyear cop tires are stupid government priced at
$1200 for just 4 tires, but they make a big heavy Chevy a blast to to drive.
$1200 for just 4 tires, but they make a big heavy Chevy a blast to to drive.
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I had O.Z. Racing Superleggera wheels on my 1998 SVT Contour
The factory wheels were 16" and these were 17" and lighter than the factory wheels. They were over $250/wheel in early 2000s money. They made a great handling car handle even better with a stiffer sidewall for the tires. Performed a bit better too with lower rotating mass and less unsprung weight.
But most wheels are not lighter and don't offer better performance. This is really one of those areas where you get what you pay for.
The factory wheels were 16" and these were 17" and lighter than the factory wheels. They were over $250/wheel in early 2000s money. They made a great handling car handle even better with a stiffer sidewall for the tires. Performed a bit better too with lower rotating mass and less unsprung weight.
But most wheels are not lighter and don't offer better performance. This is really one of those areas where you get what you pay for.
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I have bought after market wheels twice, because both cars came with steelies and hubcaps. I prefer the look of a nice alloy wheel.
Off topic: I wonder why after market wheels are sometimes called custom wheels. They are not designed and made for one person, so whats custom about them.
Off topic: I wonder why after market wheels are sometimes called custom wheels. They are not designed and made for one person, so whats custom about them.
I recently sold this set I bought 15 years ago and had on 3 different Chevy trucks. A 02 Silverado to a 08, to briefly on a 13 Tahoe. They were a very rare American Racing 18x8 wheel. Still looked like new since I always switched to the stock wheels with Blizzaks.
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Nope. When I was younger I wanted to, but CL didn't exist. Got older and didn't have time/money (still don't). Right now I won't: I've noticed that most rims just get chewed up over time, either from tire installation or salt. As such I just stick with the cheapest option.
Hmm, between the wife and I we've had 9 vehicles, and only one had alloys. And that was because they came with the car. And that car rocked some CL steelies for the winter months.
Hmm, between the wife and I we've had 9 vehicles, and only one had alloys. And that was because they came with the car. And that car rocked some CL steelies for the winter months.
The wheels that came on my Fusion were the stock steel wheels with factory wheel covers on them. They looked okay for what they were, but they scratch easily, and steel wheels are heavy.. plus I wanted a different look.
I found some MB Spark wheels, used, on Craigslist for $350. One ended up having a small crack in it (never disclosed by the lying seller) but I was able to get it welded by a specialist.
(First pic is with the MB wheels.)
I used those wheels for about 2 1/2 years, until I found a smoking deal on a brand new set of Liquid Metal Instinct wheels at Discount Tire. Gotta say, as much as I enjoyed the look of the chrome wheels, I'm a huge fan of the new look with the darker two-tone LM wheels (second pic).
I found some MB Spark wheels, used, on Craigslist for $350. One ended up having a small crack in it (never disclosed by the lying seller) but I was able to get it welded by a specialist.
(First pic is with the MB wheels.)
I used those wheels for about 2 1/2 years, until I found a smoking deal on a brand new set of Liquid Metal Instinct wheels at Discount Tire. Gotta say, as much as I enjoyed the look of the chrome wheels, I'm a huge fan of the new look with the darker two-tone LM wheels (second pic).
I've bought two sets, and have toyed with the idea of a third set for my truck, but so far haven't seen anything I like.
1. oem wheels are usually pressure cast, I think they call it, which is the strongest way to do it for the weight of the wheel. Finding an aftermarket wheel that is pressure cast is possible, but they are 3x the cost of the regular offerings. So, when going aftermarket, there's a weight or strength penalty vs oem. Both times I've done this, it's been on a tow vehicle, so I watched the weight capacities as a "must," and the heavier wheel/tire combo was felt in a slight reduction in highway ride quality. The truck had a stiff suspension to begin with, so the change could be noticed, especially on longer drives.
2. I like the styles of the aftermarket wheels - there's a lot out there to choose from. I think some styles will end up lasting longer than others - I'm a fan of black wheels but I think they may come in and out of style (both sets I bought were black)
3. I actually want to decrease my wheels size from 20" oem to 18", because you can just feel the unsprung weight on this very nice vehicle. BUT, the majority of the aftermarket wheels tend to go wider or change the offset to push the tire farther outboard. While a small amount isn't a big deal, taking the center line outside (or inside) of the steering pivot point ends up applying braking forces into the steering hardware, which we'll feel at the wheel when braking on uneven surfaces. If the surfaces are even, we won't feel it, but the forces are still there; not really something you want. In the end my best option may be oem take-offs, if I can find them. BUT -- I *really* wish I could just try a set of 18's to see how they track while towing, compared to the oem 20's. The truck drives on rails even with a travel trailer behind that - best tow vehicle I've driven. In this case, I have no interest in messing that up, and it may just keep it's stock wheels for good.
4. there are a very small number of threads I've come across where aftermarket wheels weren't balanced well from the factory.
5. both sets of aftermarket wheels I ended up with (the ATX line of American Racking) were solid wheels, well-built, and did fine. BUT, in both of those the plastic trim bits on the wheels were not substantial at all- it was sort of shameful to have these massive, machined wheels with flimsy center caps and clips.
1. oem wheels are usually pressure cast, I think they call it, which is the strongest way to do it for the weight of the wheel. Finding an aftermarket wheel that is pressure cast is possible, but they are 3x the cost of the regular offerings. So, when going aftermarket, there's a weight or strength penalty vs oem. Both times I've done this, it's been on a tow vehicle, so I watched the weight capacities as a "must," and the heavier wheel/tire combo was felt in a slight reduction in highway ride quality. The truck had a stiff suspension to begin with, so the change could be noticed, especially on longer drives.
2. I like the styles of the aftermarket wheels - there's a lot out there to choose from. I think some styles will end up lasting longer than others - I'm a fan of black wheels but I think they may come in and out of style (both sets I bought were black)
3. I actually want to decrease my wheels size from 20" oem to 18", because you can just feel the unsprung weight on this very nice vehicle. BUT, the majority of the aftermarket wheels tend to go wider or change the offset to push the tire farther outboard. While a small amount isn't a big deal, taking the center line outside (or inside) of the steering pivot point ends up applying braking forces into the steering hardware, which we'll feel at the wheel when braking on uneven surfaces. If the surfaces are even, we won't feel it, but the forces are still there; not really something you want. In the end my best option may be oem take-offs, if I can find them. BUT -- I *really* wish I could just try a set of 18's to see how they track while towing, compared to the oem 20's. The truck drives on rails even with a travel trailer behind that - best tow vehicle I've driven. In this case, I have no interest in messing that up, and it may just keep it's stock wheels for good.
4. there are a very small number of threads I've come across where aftermarket wheels weren't balanced well from the factory.
5. both sets of aftermarket wheels I ended up with (the ATX line of American Racking) were solid wheels, well-built, and did fine. BUT, in both of those the plastic trim bits on the wheels were not substantial at all- it was sort of shameful to have these massive, machined wheels with flimsy center caps and clips.
Originally Posted by meep
I've bought two sets, and have toyed with the idea of a third set for my truck, but so far haven't seen anything I like.
1. oem wheels are usually pressure cast, I think they call it, which is the strongest way to do it for the weight of the wheel. Finding an aftermarket wheel that is pressure cast is possible, but they are 3x the cost of the regular offerings. So, when going aftermarket, there's a weight or strength penalty vs oem. Both times I've done this, it's been on a tow vehicle, so I watched the weight capacities as a "must," and the heavier wheel/tire combo was felt in a slight reduction in highway ride quality. The truck had a stiff suspension to begin with, so the change could be noticed, especially on longer drives.
2. I like the styles of the aftermarket wheels - there's a lot out there to choose from. I think some styles will end up lasting longer than others - I'm a fan of black wheels but I think they may come in and out of style (both sets I bought were black)
3. I actually want to decrease my wheels size from 20" oem to 18", because you can just feel the unsprung weight on this very nice vehicle. BUT, the majority of the aftermarket wheels tend to go wider or change the offset to push the tire farther outboard. While a small amount isn't a big deal, taking the center line outside (or inside) of the steering pivot point ends up applying braking forces into the steering hardware, which we'll feel at the wheel when braking on uneven surfaces. If the surfaces are even, we won't feel it, but the forces are still there; not really something you want. In the end my best option may be oem take-offs, if I can find them. BUT -- I *really* wish I could just try a set of 18's to see how they track while towing, compared to the oem 20's. The truck drives on rails even with a travel trailer behind that - best tow vehicle I've driven. In this case, I have no interest in messing that up, and it may just keep it's stock wheels for good.
4. there are a very small number of threads I've come across where aftermarket wheels weren't balanced well from the factory.
5. both sets of aftermarket wheels I ended up with (the ATX line of American Racking) were solid wheels, well-built, and did fine. BUT, in both of those the plastic trim bits on the wheels were not substantial at all- it was sort of shameful to have these massive, machined wheels with flimsy center caps and clips.
Great post on many subjects that most people don't consider. After many years I'm still trying to figure out all of the subjects you mentioned, plus others. Just tire, and wheel weight are a HUGE piece of the puzzle. I wish I could find aftermarket wheels to replace the "widow maker" wheels on my 1950 Chevy fire truck with 2400 original miles. They are 20 inch wheels running 7.00x 20 inch bias ply tires. 3 out of six are 68 year old tires made by US Royal. The truck I just bought is from my 7 generation family's hometown in NW Kansas. It is the location of the historical site of the "Home on the Range" cabin.
I've bought two sets, and have toyed with the idea of a third set for my truck, but so far haven't seen anything I like.
1. oem wheels are usually pressure cast, I think they call it, which is the strongest way to do it for the weight of the wheel. Finding an aftermarket wheel that is pressure cast is possible, but they are 3x the cost of the regular offerings. So, when going aftermarket, there's a weight or strength penalty vs oem. Both times I've done this, it's been on a tow vehicle, so I watched the weight capacities as a "must," and the heavier wheel/tire combo was felt in a slight reduction in highway ride quality. The truck had a stiff suspension to begin with, so the change could be noticed, especially on longer drives.
2. I like the styles of the aftermarket wheels - there's a lot out there to choose from. I think some styles will end up lasting longer than others - I'm a fan of black wheels but I think they may come in and out of style (both sets I bought were black)
3. I actually want to decrease my wheels size from 20" oem to 18", because you can just feel the unsprung weight on this very nice vehicle. BUT, the majority of the aftermarket wheels tend to go wider or change the offset to push the tire farther outboard. While a small amount isn't a big deal, taking the center line outside (or inside) of the steering pivot point ends up applying braking forces into the steering hardware, which we'll feel at the wheel when braking on uneven surfaces. If the surfaces are even, we won't feel it, but the forces are still there; not really something you want. In the end my best option may be oem take-offs, if I can find them. BUT -- I *really* wish I could just try a set of 18's to see how they track while towing, compared to the oem 20's. The truck drives on rails even with a travel trailer behind that - best tow vehicle I've driven. In this case, I have no interest in messing that up, and it may just keep it's stock wheels for good.
4. there are a very small number of threads I've come across where aftermarket wheels weren't balanced well from the factory.
5. both sets of aftermarket wheels I ended up with (the ATX line of American Racking) were solid wheels, well-built, and did fine. BUT, in both of those the plastic trim bits on the wheels were not substantial at all- it was sort of shameful to have these massive, machined wheels with flimsy center caps and clips.
Great post on many subjects that most people don't consider. After many years I'm still trying to figure out all of the subjects you mentioned, plus others. Just tire, and wheel weight are a HUGE piece of the puzzle. I wish I could find aftermarket wheels to replace the "widow maker" wheels on my 1950 Chevy fire truck with 2400 original miles. They are 20 inch wheels running 7.00x 20 inch bias ply tires. 3 out of six are 68 year old tires made by US Royal. The truck I just bought is from my 7 generation family's hometown in NW Kansas. It is the location of the historical site of the "Home on the Range" cabin.
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I buy non-oem steelies for winter tires. That's the only aftermarket wheels I ever bought.
When I bought my first and only new car, I really wanted the mag wheels that came standard with the upper trim level. However, that was a $1200 option for me. No thanks.
3 years later I bought a used set of these very same mag wheels for $400. It also was the same tire size so I didn't have to buy new tires.
When I bought my first and only new car, I really wanted the mag wheels that came standard with the upper trim level. However, that was a $1200 option for me. No thanks.
3 years later I bought a used set of these very same mag wheels for $400. It also was the same tire size so I didn't have to buy new tires.
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