What do you guys think about this UOA? Wondering if I should change to a 40 weight or still too soon to determine.
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18 KIA Stinger GT - M1 EP 5w30 3,666 OCI
- Thread starter Spdfrk1990
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Too soon. Engine is still breaking in. It would be good to get a TBN number on next UOA.
PS Nice ride!!
PS Nice ride!!
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I'd wait until you have at least 10-15K miles on it before deciding. The engine is still breaking in.
Thanks.
I'd even say wait until you have over 30k-35k miles on the engine but I'm not an expert on UOA's.
After 20K you may want to run a synthetic oil.
M1EP is not.
Its S.S.
I also wouldn't run a LL oil during break in but,
its down to fate and break in gods and you not toasting the rings by hopping on it too much too long when she's tight.
M1EP is not.
Its S.S.
I also wouldn't run a LL oil during break in but,
its down to fate and break in gods and you not toasting the rings by hopping on it too much too long when she's tight.
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Good choice of oil: its dexos1, about 1/3 PAO base oil, a Stinger deserves great oil like that.
Yep, still breaking in, silicon showing high due to seal materials still in there.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
What do you guys think about this UOA? Wondering if I should change to a 40 weight or still too soon to determine.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Just wondering, have you had a free re-spray on that yellow? What was the issue with that?
![[Linked Image]](https://m.kia.com/worldwide/vehicles/stinger/images/design/img_exterior_detail3_7.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Yep, still breaking in, silicon showing high due to seal materials still in there.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
What do you guys think about this UOA? Wondering if I should change to a 40 weight or still too soon to determine.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Just wondering, have you had a free re-spray on that yellow? What was the issue with that?
The Owner's Manual is realy vague on what oil to use, with an odd typo and weird language I've never seen before.
It says you can use " Sw-30 above ", which, I guess, the letter "S" means "5", OK, got that. Then "above" word means you can use a 5w30, 5w40, or 5w50, allright, a good range anyway. They say SM/GF-4 or above, which means SN/GF-5, which also indicates you cannot use 5w40 or 5w50 since they are not GF-4 or GF-5 (requires Sequence VID fuel economy increase). Contradictory owner's manual information which you can interpret liberally I'd suppose. And why even mention SM/GF-4, an older obsolete spec, for a 2018 model anyway?
Then there is the C2 recomendation for the 2.0L engine, meaning they are concerned about soot from the DI in the 4-cylinder but not in the turbo DI 6.
We've seen owners manuals give vague, inaccurate, or slightly contradictory instructions before in oil specs, yet this one is especially strange.
It says you can use " Sw-30 above ", which, I guess, the letter "S" means "5", OK, got that. Then "above" word means you can use a 5w30, 5w40, or 5w50, allright, a good range anyway. They say SM/GF-4 or above, which means SN/GF-5, which also indicates you cannot use 5w40 or 5w50 since they are not GF-4 or GF-5 (requires Sequence VID fuel economy increase). Contradictory owner's manual information which you can interpret liberally I'd suppose. And why even mention SM/GF-4, an older obsolete spec, for a 2018 model anyway?
Then there is the C2 recomendation for the 2.0L engine, meaning they are concerned about soot from the DI in the 4-cylinder but not in the turbo DI 6.
We've seen owners manuals give vague, inaccurate, or slightly contradictory instructions before in oil specs, yet this one is especially strange.
What exactly is SW-30?
![[Linked Image]](https://i.imgur.com/x9p4rAz.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://i.imgur.com/dBTOIll.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
What exactly is SW-30?
"S" means thats a big company who can't type a "5" there when a 5 is what they kinda mean.
https://www.kiastinger.org/pdf/2018_Stinger_OM_sm.pdf is the Owner's Manual for the U.S. market.
I don't see Lonzbera's generic Kia chart anywhere in there, although it looks like the 2.0T's C2 recomendation is sprinkled in.
What exactly is SW-30?
"S" means thats a big company who can't type a "5" there when a 5 is what they kinda mean.
https://www.kiastinger.org/pdf/2018_Stinger_OM_sm.pdf is the Owner's Manual for the U.S. market.
I don't see Lonzbera's generic Kia chart anywhere in there, although it looks like the 2.0T's C2 recomendation is sprinkled in.
I did find something in a Kia forum that is consistent with the brief info printed in the owner's manual, and it breaks it down by 2.0T vs. 3.3T as it should:
https://www.kiastinger.org/threads/631-Kia-Stinger-Oil-Thread
https://www.kiastinger.org/threads/631-Kia-Stinger-Oil-Thread
What's the oem viscosity for this engine in Korea?
You're still washing out what looks like a bunch of break-in particles. The actual wear-in of the parts is long done. I say you continue with the shorter intervals to quicken the removal of wear causing particles from the sump. Once metals settle down, see how the oil is doing at that point and adjust as needed.
You're still washing out what looks like a bunch of break-in particles. The actual wear-in of the parts is long done. I say you continue with the shorter intervals to quicken the removal of wear causing particles from the sump. Once metals settle down, see how the oil is doing at that point and adjust as needed.
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Good choice of oil: its dexos1, about 1/3 PAO base oil, a Stinger deserves great oil like that.
Yep, still breaking in, silicon showing high due to seal materials still in there.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
What do you guys think about this UOA? Wondering if I should change to a 40 weight or still too soon to determine.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Just wondering, have you had a free re-spray on that yellow? What was the issue with that?
Maybe I will try the ESP next time. Some yellow cars had a problem with the paint chipping due to adhesion issues. Ours did not exhibit issues like some others though so I decided not to get the repaint.
Good choice of oil: its dexos1, about 1/3 PAO base oil, a Stinger deserves great oil like that.
Yep, still breaking in, silicon showing high due to seal materials still in there.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
What do you guys think about this UOA? Wondering if I should change to a 40 weight or still too soon to determine.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Just wondering, have you had a free re-spray on that yellow? What was the issue with that?
Maybe I will try the ESP next time. Some yellow cars had a problem with the paint chipping due to adhesion issues. Ours did not exhibit issues like some others though so I decided not to get the repaint.
Originally Posted by Spdfrk1990
Maybe I will try the ESP next time. Some yellow cars had a problem with the paint chipping due to adhesion issues. Ours did not exhibit issues like some others though so I decided not to get the repaint.
Deja vu... some '08 BMW 5-series had bad paint, that only became apparent after a few years, when it would lose its gloss completely, looking dull and oxidized after only 4 years or so. The Kia Stinger yellow issue, after I googled it, said the paint formulation was missing some important chemical from the supplier. BMW had a similar issue. I don't know what small amount of whatever chemical it was, but many '08 BMWs have dull paint when it should still be shiny at the 5 year point.
That M1 ESP line is a good one. GM tested a similar formula as the ESP 5w30 in their ESP 0w40 for Corvette LT1/LT4 engines.
If you want to go to super-premium oil, get the Ravenol DXG 5w30 full-PAO/ester dexos1 Gen2 tungsten-moly oil from Blauparts.com or maybe amazon.com has it now. It has the highest quality ingredient list I've ever seen in an oil with full certifications. Great NOACK.
You can't go wrong with M1 ESP or M1 Extended Performance or M1 Annual Protection though.
Maybe I will try the ESP next time. Some yellow cars had a problem with the paint chipping due to adhesion issues. Ours did not exhibit issues like some others though so I decided not to get the repaint.
Deja vu... some '08 BMW 5-series had bad paint, that only became apparent after a few years, when it would lose its gloss completely, looking dull and oxidized after only 4 years or so. The Kia Stinger yellow issue, after I googled it, said the paint formulation was missing some important chemical from the supplier. BMW had a similar issue. I don't know what small amount of whatever chemical it was, but many '08 BMWs have dull paint when it should still be shiny at the 5 year point.
That M1 ESP line is a good one. GM tested a similar formula as the ESP 5w30 in their ESP 0w40 for Corvette LT1/LT4 engines.
If you want to go to super-premium oil, get the Ravenol DXG 5w30 full-PAO/ester dexos1 Gen2 tungsten-moly oil from Blauparts.com or maybe amazon.com has it now. It has the highest quality ingredient list I've ever seen in an oil with full certifications. Great NOACK.
You can't go wrong with M1 ESP or M1 Extended Performance or M1 Annual Protection though.
DXG is $49.03 + 3.99 shipping on Amazon from Blauparts. My order actually arrived one day early which was a nice surprise. On the subjective side, my engine is smoother and quieter. On the objective side, mileage has not dipped at all (Fuelly-calculated) from PUP 5w20.
Whats the engine ?
2.0 197hp G4KL
2.0 247hp G4KL
3.3 370hp G6DP
2.0 197hp G4KL
2.0 247hp G4KL
3.3 370hp G6DP
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Given the odd wording of the manual, if it were me, I'd be tempted to try an E6 5w-30 or an A3/B4 5w-30, even. Note, this isn't because of anything in the UOA itself, just as an option for something different with a higher HTHS.
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Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Where is the best place to buy the M1 ESP?
.
You can legally (warranty) use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 which has an HTHS=3.5, compared to M1 Extended Performance's 3.0, to give you some extra protection on that twin-turbo setup if you're driving hard, as in tracking the car or in very hot, high-rpm duty for periods of over 10 minutes at a time. (M1 ESP 5w30 is similar to the new Corvette spec'ed M1 ESP 0w40.)
Where is the best place to buy the M1 ESP?
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