K&N Air Filter

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Aug 21, 2002
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Nashville, Tn.
I switched the restrictive air box that was stock on my 2001 camaro ss and during the process, I had to remove my maft and throttle body. In the screen was bugs and other debris. This leads me to believe that the K&N may be letting not so good things into the LS1. And before you ask, I had the gasket and additional material to seal the filter. I think that I am going to try a holley filter and if that fails go back to stock air filters. Has anyone else had this experience with K&N air filters.
 
You are going to get mixed opinions on this one. Some people use them with good results, and no problems showing up in their oil analyis. Personally, I do not use them anymore. I have never had a vehicle that I used them on where I could tell a difference in horsepower. I don't remember what magazine did this, but someone took a Grand Prix GTP and put a panel filter in. The car was dynoed with no horsepower gains. The car's acceleration, 0-60 and 1/4 mile were also tested with paper and then with a K&N with no improvement in horsepower. I guess it's just a matter of preference. -Joe
 
If you had Bugs and other large particles past the air filter it was not sealed properly to it's box.

I am with a KN like 7up and Caffeine,never had it,never will.Just my opinion though
 
While talking to a gentleman in a filter business (industrial/automotive/trucking) a couple of days ago I questioned the K&N system. He said they were better off just on race cars as the engines get torn down and inspected. They also need a higher unrestricted airflow than normal cars. He also mentioned that stock air filters get better filtration as time goes on. He likened it to the "rule" of having to change oil every 3K. I'm scared to think now what 2 years with a K&N did to my truck (especially here in dusty AZ).
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I believe all filters, including K&N, do get better filtering numbers as they get dirty. My air filter was not changed at all recently, and my first oil sample showed 7ppm of silicon on a 2400 mile interval, but only 6ppm of silicon on a longer 3300 mile interval. But once it gets too clogged, it will cause me to lose power and have driveability issues (possibly the engine will run too rich) so you have to find the right time to change the filter.
 
I've run a K&N on my Bronco for over a year now, with good results. I haven't run an oil analysis, but have done the "wipe test" with a clean tissue. The carb throat is absolutely clean now, with the K&N. When using the stock air cleaner and paper filter, I had a film of dust that would build up inside the cleaner and carb.

However, I may have had a leak between the carb and cleaner, with the stock setup. I fabricated a seal for the K&N, so I know that it dosen't have any unfiltered air coming through it.
 
I running a K/N with FAIK on my 99 Expedition with 5.4L. Once a week when I check the oil I check the air filter. If it ever appears to be "drying out" I pop it off. I bought the reoiling kit and rigidly follow the instructions on cleaning then oiling.

I have noticed an improvement in offline accel and passing. What it equates to in improved RWHP is unknown. It also gives that big throaty response like the old days of kicking in the secondarys on a 4 barrel.

I also have one installed on the wife's Explorer (4.0 SOHC) biut in the OEM box. So far so good. I've used em for years and am happy. My $.02

Keith
 
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/ftp/bmw/FAQ.8

there is a thing there on the K & N filter..it is surprising to me that the statistics there and then the peoples in heres own experiance is differnt...like the guy who put it in and found no residue in his intake tubes...right now i run a fram filter and i have some dust and stuff inside after 12 years. (91 honda accord) and i really wanted to go for k & n but hearing that more dirt passes makes me think.

there is a product also that goes before the k & n filter that is found on their site and it is supposed to block more dirt before it hits the filter with only 1% restriction.
http://www.knfilters.com/airforcewraps.htm
there is the link for that.

iono i want to go with k & n but not sure now
 
Now that they have the "Airforce" wrap, I'll have no problems with the K&N cone filter, but I've had good expereince with one car, and possibly bad expereince on another with their panel filters. The jury is still out, as I've not pulled a sample for comparison, since I switched to Purolator.
 
I'm confused about these pre-wrap filters. They are to help filter out dirt which may have gotten past your normal filter, right? If so, then why do you need the normal filter?

I do understand if it is used to filter out the larger particles to keep your normal filter from getting dirty as fast, but I don't see how it can help in the overall filtration.

Do I have it right?
 
Chris, the wrap is a foam covering that goes over the cone style K&N filters, so it stops a bit more dirt before it even gets to the K&N. It can't be used without the K&N cone underneath it though.
 
They do make these wraps for other filters too.

I understand that it will trap some dirt, but I don't believe it will trap dirt which the filter would not, so then it would not help to keep dirt out of the intake, right? If this is the case, the only purpose I see that it will serve is to keep the filter cleaner longer, and look cool
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Patman, Did your search for a conical foam filter yield anything? It seems that Jet, Accel, and Holley have all switched to a gauze type, recently. I've had respectable si numbers with a K&N, but my most recent analsis shows an elevated level and I think logic would dictate that I reconsider my filtration. I'm too stuborn to go back to paper so this "airforce wrap" is a consideration. It appears to a very coarse foam ,so do you think it will be effective with the fine dust?
 
I never did find a foam conical air filter, but then again I must admit I haven't been searching all that hard either. With this foam filter wrap, I can buy a used K&N LT1 FIPK setup the next time it comes up for sale (which is usually about 3-4 times a year in my car club) and then buy the wrap. This will save me a lot of money, since the used FIPKs usually sell for about $150 CDN (compared to $200 US for new, or about $400 CDN)
 
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