What spec indicates ability to retain film over time?

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In an engine that gets cold starts say once a month, I think a big issue is the oil having drained out of where it needs to be moreso than say a daily driver. So what would one look for in an oil that would indicate it's better at clinging to the parts and retaining a film over long periods of just sitting? I would think this would have a lot to do with how much of the oil drains off while it's hot, after that last drive for the month. Or not.

Of course my general question is how to pick a good oil for a vehicle that sits and sits, for best protection with those sporadic start ups. BUT I want the science/specs that help me make that decision.
 
As much as people hate STP, I have always found even a 1/4 of a bottle in the sump will leave a film on all engine parts that never, ever "drips away" or becomes "dry"

I have a 1943 Farmall H that has had the same oil in the sump for probably 20 years now.
It gets started and used once or twice a year, for about 1-2 hours each time.
It always gets instant oil pressure, and every time I check the oil it looks and smells like all normal oil would.

The oil filter is the typical Farmall "bypass" design, and it gets warm in a normal period of time.
 
I had a racing freind that recommended a product called "Hi Tach" once to me for startup valvetrain noise in a new Chevy 350. It completely silenced it. Of course back then I didn't know about anti-drainback oil filters. The STP stuff reminds me of that Hi-Tach but it sort of creeps me out.
 
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Red line motor oil or Ester based group 5. Perfect for your conditions, but expensive.
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
+1 for Redline
The ester oil is polarized so it clings to the metal...

Sure, esters are polar molecules but metal atoms are not. I've never understood this one.
 
Esters are not only polar but are dense and stand up to heat better then other base oils, and Redline has moly levels 8x what most oils have, and moly is what the industry uses for cold starts. If redline can't kill that tick, likely nothing lubrication wise will, it is a great oil imo. If you want to try something with your current oil to see if there is a difference, try lubeguards biotech, we call it poor mans redline. It too is ester based and will raise moly levels with oil soluble moly. It is no surprise we hear a lot about engine ticks with the newest specs and modern engines. Just going up in viscosity is the cheapest "potential" fix. However, it may be something additives and pao'ester base oils are better suited at quieting. I'm sure 12 guys will just telly ou to live with it, but I say nothing to loose trying some things. I wouldn't recommend additives where the science isn't solid, I'd shoot the engine with a shotgun before adding an oil thickner.

Here is what a group of people have found when it comes to redline, presumably it would be similar to clone oils and moly treatments. Do not give up on the oil sometimes it can take 500 miles to plate and kill the tick, we even had one guy take 1700 miles. Sometimes it quiets right away, and sometimes not at all. But the success rate at killing tick is very high, otherwise all the guys saying so wouldn't bother bringing it up. redline is a tick killer, killed more ticks then raid.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by 330indy
+1 for Redline
The ester oil is polarized so it clings to the metal...

Sure, esters are polar molecules but metal atoms are not. I've never understood this one.


Metal atoms have very mobile electron clouds - if a polar molecule approaches the metal surface the electrons can be either repelled or attracted depending on which end of the polar moment is nearest. If a -ve end gets near, the electrons migrate away leaving an area of positiveness, to which the -ve end is further attracted. This is the simple description of electrostatic attraction. Of course it gets more complicated than that, but that's the basic polarity story.
 
Originally Posted by weasley
Metal atoms have very mobile electron clouds - if a polar molecule approaches the metal surface the electrons can be either repelled or attracted depending on which end of the polar moment is nearest. If a -ve end gets near, the electrons migrate away leaving an area of positiveness, to which the -ve end is further attracted. This is the simple description of electrostatic attraction. Of course it gets more complicated than that, but that's the basic polarity story.

OK sure, but I've never seen electrostatic attraction to metals. But maybe that's just me.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by weasley
Metal atoms have very mobile electron clouds - if a polar molecule approaches the metal surface the electrons can be either repelled or attracted depending on which end of the polar moment is nearest. If a -ve end gets near, the electrons migrate away leaving an area of positiveness, to which the -ve end is further attracted. This is the simple description of electrostatic attraction. Of course it gets more complicated than that, but that's the basic polarity story.

OK sure, but I've never seen electrostatic attraction to metals. But maybe that's just me.


It's how varnish want's to set itself up too...polar varnish molecules prefer to stick to the metal than to the non polar lubricant.

If you can effectively remove the circulating varnish from the oil (often by electrostatic means), it will eventually clean up the surfaces themselves.
 
I would also say...grp. V oils (esters).

And once I was told...vw PD oils (vw505.01 or 507)...that they contain special EP/AW additive wich protects cam lobes at cold starts....but I am not 100% sure since I heard that only once...

Cams in PD engines are really very sensitive (are eaten away) if non PD oils are used....
 
Originally Posted by Shannow
It's how varnish want's to set itself up too...polar varnish molecules prefer to stick to the metal than to the non polar lubricant.

If you can effectively remove the circulating varnish from the oil (often by electrostatic means), it will eventually clean up the surfaces themselves.

Okay but that's different than saying the polar varnish is electrostatically attracted to the metal. It could adhere to the metal via mechanical reasons, which I'm sure you understand better than I do.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
It could adhere to the metal via mechanical reasons, which I'm sure you understand better than I do.


All adhesion mechanisms are chemical one way or another.
 
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