Raybestos RPT Coated Rotors (pics)

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Originally Posted by Danno
Originally Posted by The Critic
Thanks for posting. These are painted economy rotors, not painted premium rotors, and the price is reflected accordingly. There are likely to be differences in metallurgy, castings and runout tolerances between these rotors and their premium offerings.

How can you tell economy vs premium, and which rotors are you referring to?

Thanks


The RPT rotors are economy rotors. According to the description, they are machined for a maximum of .004" of lateral runout, which is a fairly loose standard. Most premium rotors, if they advertise runout, will be .002" or less. .004" is way too much for most modern vehicles.

"Lateral Runout & Thickness Variation

Our coated rotors come with a lateral runout of 0.004″ or less and a thickness variation of less than 0.0005", ensuring:

Less pedal pulsation
Less brake noise
An extended pad life"

https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/products/rotors/rpt.html

rotors.PNG
 
Originally Posted by Rand
I first read this as having issues with the new rotors.. then realized you threw in the issues you were having in the middle of talking about the new ones.

Nice thread.. appreciate the pics.
Thanks.

Yeah, looking back can see how the wording might have been confusing. As noted choose RPT this time because of comments here and on Amazon about the Wagner E coated (same RA coated category) showing some rust on the non coated/painted area with use. Centric Premium have a similar looking coating, however placed in the next RA category. Whether they show the same rust in non coated areas, seems possible. The latter ~$10 more a rotor than RPT.

Likely the RPTs are the Raybestos "Professional Grade" rotors with the coating. For painted guaranteeing a time frame.

Since Napa "Ultra Premium" equivalent coated mentioned a couple times, with the RA 5% discount and shipping figured in price, two RPT rotors purchased price $1.60 more than Napa current list for one. Pics and specs including coating testing description, as noted, look to be identical.
 
I put the Napa Ultra Premium rotors on my Tacoma about 1,200 miles ago. They are coated and look just like these, but are supposed to have 0.002 or less runout. I didn't check them with a dial indicator, but they are perfectly smooth with no pulsing or other vibrations. If they hold up, I'll be going with these again in the future.
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
The RPT rotors are economy rotors. According to the description, they are machined for a maximum of .004" of lateral runout, which is a fairly loose standard. Most premium rotors, if they advertise runout, will be .002" or less. .004" is way too much for most modern vehicles.



My foot / butt cannot tell the difference between these and the OEM rotors when they were new. No perceptible difference at all in smoothness / vibration from when the car was new. Maybe I got lucky and got a set that was not out at the 0.004" limit, or maybe 0.002" difference in runout limit makes no difference on some vehicles?
 
Originally Posted by novadude
..My foot / butt cannot tell the difference between these and the OEM rotors when they were new. No perceptible difference at all in smoothness / vibration from when the car was new.….
+1 At this point topic rotors seem to perform same as I remember the OE when new. As for the tolerance spec, as long as they perform to my expectation immaterial to me. I noticed the Centric CTek rotors recently posted here, don't even list a runout spec. Same for other Centric, Wagner, ACDelco….. Looking at RA and rotor sites, Raybestos seems rather unique in listing one.

Practically speaking I'd imagine for the average joe installing rotors on daily or semi daily driver, if like me, not too caught up in a runout spec anyway. Otoh, I could have gone with Honda OEM rotors for ~$100 each.
whistle.gif
 
Don't get hung up on the 0.004" allowable runout. Your rotors could be 0.0005", 0.001", 0.002", etc. That 0.004" number is just the "worst" case that Raybestos will pass dimensional checks on. As they produce more and more, their tolerances will surely tighten up too and these have been available for a little while now.
 
Originally Posted by novadude

My foot / butt cannot tell the difference between these and the OEM rotors when they were new. No perceptible difference at all in smoothness / vibration from when the car was new. Maybe I got lucky and got a set that was not out at the 0.004" limit, or maybe 0.002" difference in runout limit makes no difference on some vehicles?


hallstevenson is correct. The .004" is likely a QC standard they have. Most rotors today are manufactured well and .001-.002" is common.
Originally Posted by Sayjac
Originally Posted by novadude
..My foot / butt cannot tell the difference between these and the OEM rotors when they were new. No perceptible difference at all in smoothness / vibration from when the car was new.….
+1 At this point topic rotors seem to perform same as I remember the OE when new. As for the tolerance spec, as long as they perform to my expectation immaterial to me. I noticed the Centric CTek rotors recently posted here, don't even list a runout spec. Same for other Centric, Wagner, ACDelco….. Looking at RA and rotor sites, Raybestos seems rather unique in listing one.

Practically speaking I'd imagine for the average joe installing rotors on daily or semi daily driver, if like me, not too caught up in a runout spec anyway. Otoh, I could have gone with Honda OEM rotors for ~$100 each.
whistle.gif


Measuring runout during a brake job is critical and is part of the OEM service procedure. I highly recommend measuring the runout whenever you install new rotors or resurface your existing ones.
 
I'm satisfied with the job, the rotors and how it turned out. Rotors are fine, as noted braking restored to my satisfaction. As these done for myself, thankfully the only person I have to please is me.

Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Don't get hung up on the 0.004" allowable runout....
Obviously I didn't and don't. As noted, many/most other rotors even so called premium, don't even list a spec. If these continue to perform as they have, if needed later likely go with same for the rear.
 
It's your vehicle, you can do what you like.

But if someone asks me for advice, I go along with The Critic, and also Raybestos Brake Tech School for that matter:

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
"You cannot do a proper brake job without a dial indicator to measure rotor runout."

Results at 1,200 miles are meaningless. It may take as much as 10K for brake shudder to start, on an out-of-spec brake job.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
It's your vehicle, you can do what you like.

But if someone asks me for advice, I go along with The Critic, and also Raybestos Brake Tech School for that matter:

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
"You cannot do a proper brake job without a dial indicator to measure rotor runout."

Results at 1,200 miles are meaningless. It may take as much as 10K for brake shudder to start, on an out-of-spec brake job.



After reading some of your posts Hangfire, and a pm last year, i bought a dial set. I have to do the brakes on the elantra, so i will be using it for the first time. I'm curious what runout readings i get.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
It's your vehicle, you can do what you like.

But if someone asks me for advice, I go along with The Critic, and also Raybestos Brake Tech School for that matter:

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
"You cannot do a proper brake job without a dial indicator to measure rotor runout."

Results at 1,200 miles are meaningless. It may take as much as 10K for brake shudder to start, on an out-of-spec brake job.

I assume that was directed at me? Should I get a dial indicator and check/adjust them? I did wire wheel the hubs and get them as clean as I could.
 
Quote
It's your vehicle, you can do what you like......
That would be the operative sentence, and I do.

Even as the Honda OE rotors developed a pulsation and (as previously noted) had to be turned, it's possible 'at some point' topic rotors could too. If or when that happens, do as I did for them, get them turned. Otoh, if at all it may take much longer than the Honda OE and that would be great. I also see the link references 'fleet managers'. The fleet I manage is mine and thus that the only I standard I must meet. I take a pragmatic approach to this, satisfaction the goal. Accomplished.

And now stipulated, notation of (out of ordinary practice) Raybestos listing of a run out spec strictly for QC max purposes, not an indication of actual results. So now it would seem notation much ado about nothing.

As an aside, it might be interesting to know the percentage of indy shops and dealers that actually measure for runout when installing new rotors. My speculation would be, not that high.
 
Originally Posted by Sayjac

As an aside, it might be interesting to know the percentage of indy shops and dealers that actually measure for runout when installing new rotors. My speculation would be, not that high.


From my experience working around garages and dealerships in my younger days (some 25 years ago), I would say "NONE" is the likely answer. Time is money. If the car leaves the garage with no vibrations / pulsations everyone is happy. If the vibrations / pulsations come back in 10k miles, they can sell another brake job and blame it on the driver's braking habits.
 
Originally Posted by Sayjac

As an aside, it might be interesting to know the percentage of indy shops and dealers that actually measure for runout when installing new rotors. My speculation would be, not that high.

The number is very low, probably close to 0. This is the reason why OEM's will only pay warranty claims for rotor resurfacing if it is performed using an on-car brake lathe.
 
Originally Posted by novadude
From my experience working around garages and dealerships in my younger days (some 25 years ago), I would say "NONE" is the likely answer. Time is money. If the car leaves the garage with no vibrations / pulsations everyone is happy. If the vibrations / pulsations come back in 10k miles, they can sell another brake job and blame it on the driver's braking habits.

This.

I can count the number of brake jobs I've paid for in my lifetime on one hand, but I also buy tires, get wheel alignments, recall work, and so on. I always view the shop area whenever I can. I've never seen a dial indicator in action.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
After reading some of your posts Hangfire, and a pm last year, i bought a dial set. I have to do the brakes on the elantra, so i will be using it for the first time. I'm curious what runout readings i get.

Me too! There's a fair chance they will be in spec... not every measurement-free brake job goes South.
But there sure is something comforting about KNOWING it's a good job/well done.
 
Originally Posted by novadude
Originally Posted by Sayjac
As an aside, it might be interesting to know the percentage of indy shops and dealers that actually measure for runout when installing new rotors. My speculation would be, not that high.
From my experience working around garages and dealerships in my younger days (some 25 years ago), I would say "NONE" is the likely answer.….
So given that as a now apparently agreed upon observation/rule, at the 'very minimum' the job done meets the standard of getting it done at a shop or dealer. Add in the benefits of using the pads (Akebono here) and rotors of choice and saving a TON of money, it's no lose imo. Also as noted, out of the box rotors may very well meet any oe spec, ie., any ocd, anal retentive, bitog standard. All those things considered, lots of comfort in the satisfaction of the job done.
 
I didn't come to BITOG to learn how to repeat the mistakes, and live down to the limitations of the average slap-dash shop or dealer.

And a rotor meeting spec in the box, doesn't necessary mean it meets spec on the hub.

And I've been there, done that, redone my own brake jobs at 10K miles after the WUBBA WUBBA shows up, and wondering [censored] why did I use quality components and here I am again doing the work over again. I'm DONE with that. Now I KNOW why, not going back to the mystery.

5 minutes more per side and I KNOW it's quality job. Done.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
And I've been there, done that, redone my own brake jobs at 10K miles after the WUBBA WUBBA shows up, and wondering [censored] why did I use quality components and here I am again doing the work over again. I'm DONE with that. Now I KNOW why, not going back to the mystery.


Does the wubba wubba sound when braking or also during driving without the brakes being applied? I'm trying to track down a noise but no vibration or noise when braking.
 
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