Renewable Lubricants

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=OVERKILL
Sure, I understand that concern. Conversely, the Honda S2000 mill was >100HP/L, spun to north of 9K and required plain-jane 10w-30. The present 6.2L Hellcat mill produces 707HP (114HP/L), and has full warranty on an OTS 0w-40. The GT350 Mustang engine is 5.2L, produces 526HP and spins to 8,250RPM, it spec's a generic 5w-50 and of course also comes with full warranty. There are plenty of other examples with power densities north of 100HP/L where a Euro 0w-40 or similar is more than adequate. Porsche's A40 testing includes extensive simulated lapping of the Nurburgring followed by tear-down and measurements for example.

Just dumping more of something into a formulated lube does not in any way guarantee improvement. Without testing the results are simply unknown. That's the entire reason for the existence of the testing and approval regimens and why OEM spec's and approvals which involve actual operational testing followed by tear-down and analysis are leveraged. Well-funded race teams working with big blenders are doing this on the fly but those without those partnerships nor the ability to do frequent tear downs often depend on a previously developed and tested formula from their blender of choice. Mobil's racing oils, AMSOIL's Dominator line, Redline's racing oils...etc are products that fit well into that market.

Note that I'm not trying to downplay the challenges that the power density and usage profile of your application presents, simply pointing out that 100HP/L isn't a particularly exotic target at this juncture. The lubes used in OEM applications that are hitting at and above that power level aren't requiring "Wizards in a Can" as user Trav has described them in the past, to stay together. GM's own Race Program Corvette's have used either an OTS 0w-40 (M1 0w-40) or 15w-50 (M1 15w-50) and many of these oils are used, as is, at events like the 24hrs of LeMans, Sebring...etc.


Hi OVERKILL,
I would not dare to compare the internal mechanical stress of an little Honda versus a BIG V8 NA revving 7500rpm all day long on a 4 inches stroke,neither to the specific pricey GM engines used for very short distance in the 24 hours of Le Mans (only used to their full potential during qualifying BTW) before rebuild, but, you can if it makes sense to you...

My entire posting here was trying to be informative on this RLI 5W40 developed by Terry Dyson if I don't mistake, and that is providing to this engine of mine better results than all types of Mobil 1, Red Line or Amsoil tested in it, that's all.

To avoid any controversy if someone needs the HTHS and VI of this formula (both impressive), try to pm me.
All the best.
Christian
 
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
The booster pak added at 5% improved the anti wear and EP properties of the conventional SAE 10w30 used during their testing. Even though the oil was already API licensed, it was improved above the minimum to pass the specification.


Is this an HDEO 10w-30 or just your typical plain-Jane API SN 10w-30? Or does it say? The API limits are typically significantly exceeded by the OEM ones. Dexos for example. 5% improvement on house brand 10w-30 blended by Warren isn't setting the bar very high IMHO if that's our benchmark.

Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't recall any other "wizard in a can" additive product who actually does any scientific testing, let alone proved an actual benefit from using their product.


That's my point. Most of them aren't tested at all, or if they are, it's very limited in scope and usually on a baseline product where improvement is almost guaranteed. That's why these things are often called snake oil.

Originally Posted by CleverUserName
With that said, the chemistry of the booster pak is unique and I would say it's probably not compatible with all oils and additive chemistries. I feel comfortable using it in low doses with other RLI oils but personally wouldn't mix it with anything else.

My own opinion is that I did notice an improvement with cold starts. Whether this translates into lower wear rates remains to be seen.


My takeaway here is that you don't think the RLI products are, by themselves, good enough, so you have to further fortify with them via an additive of their design, and are willing to a pay a premium for both these things
21.gif


Redline doesn't make a "more Redline" dose bottle to "supercharge" their lubricants, neither does AMSOIL. To me this reeks of "Slick 50", "Duralube"...etc.

If one feels it is necessary to improve the product they are using by adding something else to it one would think that the inclination would be, at that juncture, to procure a product that's satisfactorily blended in the first place.
 
Originally Posted by miami993

Hi OVERKILL,
I would not dare to compare the internal mechanical stress of an little Honda versus a BIG V8 NA revving 7500rpm all day long on a 4 inches stroke,neither to the specific pricey GM engines used for very short distance in the 24 hours of Le Mans (only used to their full potential during qualifying BTW) before rebuild, but, you can if it makes sense to you...


I gave several examples, yet you chose to cherry-pick those two. The Hellcat engine has higher specific output, the GT350 engine that, and a higher RPM ceiling. Both are sold with full warranty and do not require exotic oils to stay together.

Originally Posted by miami993
My entire posting here was trying to be informative on this RLI 5W40 developed by Terry Dyson if I don't mistake, and that is providing to this engine of mine better results than all types of Mobil 1, Red Line or Amsoil tested in it, that's all.

To avoid any controversy if someone needs the HTHS and VI of this formula (both impressive), try to pm me.
All the best.
Christian


Results based on UOA's I'm sure, rather than actual tear-downs and measurements which, despite being part of many of the OEM testing protocols, generally isn't part of what is included when somebody comes on here and tries to play-up a particular product, which is has been my takeaway from this thread and this statement now reinforces. If you are using Terry for his professional services and that's how you've come about running and subsequently promoting this lubricant then I believe we've hit the end of this exchange.

Enjoy your car Christian, I'm sure it is a lot of fun. If you are indeed working with Terry, then I'm certain he will take care of you and your high output application.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
The booster pak added at 5% improved the anti wear and EP properties of the conventional SAE 10w30 used during their testing. Even though the oil was already API licensed, it was improved above the minimum to pass the specification.


Is this an HDEO 10w-30 or just your typical plain-Jane API SN 10w-30? Or does it say? The API limits are typically significantly exceeded by the OEM ones. Dexos for example. 5% improvement on house brand 10w-30 blended by Warren isn't setting the bar very high IMHO if that's our benchmark.

Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't recall any other "wizard in a can" additive product who actually does any scientific testing, let alone proved an actual benefit from using their product.


That's my point. Most of them aren't tested at all, or if they are, it's very limited in scope and usually on a baseline product where improvement is almost guaranteed. That's why these things are often called snake oil.

Originally Posted by CleverUserName
With that said, the chemistry of the booster pak is unique and I would say it's probably not compatible with all oils and additive chemistries. I feel comfortable using it in low doses with other RLI oils but personally wouldn't mix it with anything else.

My own opinion is that I did notice an improvement with cold starts. Whether this translates into lower wear rates remains to be seen.


My takeaway here is that you don't think the RLI products are, by themselves, good enough, so you have to further fortify with them via an additive of their design, and are willing to a pay a premium for both these things
21.gif


Redline doesn't make a "more Redline" dose bottle to "supercharge" their lubricants, neither does AMSOIL. To me this reeks of "Slick 50", "Duralube"...etc.

If one feels it is necessary to improve the product they are using by adding something else to it one would think that the inclination would be, at that juncture, to procure a product that's satisfactorily blended in the first place.



Maybe you should read the PDF to find out what 10w30 was used for testing so I don't have to spoon-feed you the information.

I don't feel the need to add anything to the RLI low ash HDEOs. I purchased two bottles of the booster pak over a year ago and planned to add to D1 5w40 on my next OC. Like the OP, I also got a good deal on some gallons of RLI 10w30 and 15w40 so the booster pak gets mixed with them instead. 1/2 bottle per oil change. I have one bottle left and don't plan on buying any more afterwards. The additive levels in the basic RLI CJ-4 oils are sufficient for my use.
 
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
Maybe you should read the PDF to find out what 10w30 was used for testing so I don't have to spoon-feed you the information.

It was a simple query that requires a simple answer. If you don't feel like providing it, that's fine. Asking what 10w-30 was used hardly qualifies as spoon-feeding and, if you knew off the top of your head, which I assumed to be the case, would be far quicker than me locating the document to find out for myself.

Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't feel the need to add anything to the RLI low ash HDEOs. I purchased two bottles of the booster pak over a year ago and planned to add to D1 5w40 on my next OC. Like the OP, I also got a good deal on some gallons of RLI 10w30 and 15w40 so the booster pak gets mixed with them instead. 1/2 bottle per oil change. I have one bottle left and don't plan on buying any more afterwards. The additive levels in the basic RLI CJ-4 oils are sufficient for my use.


OK, that makes a bit more sense. I was of the mind that you were intentionally procuring this booster pak product to further fortify the RLI lubricant you were using. Using it up because you have it seems reasonable. I'm sure you can understand my position here that procuring a premium lubricant only to further additize it, increasing overall cost, seems a bit illogical.
 
OVERKILLSure said:
Just making clear this is not making sense in term of technical compare.

Honda S2000 is a 2.2 liter with a torque160 lb-ft
The 6.2 Hellcat is turbocharged, and as long as it is not in the 2000 hp it is not in the same league as the engine of my car
The GT 350 is a good one but still with only 420 lb-ft of torque.
The Corvette in Le Mans covers rarely more than 3000 miles before entire rebuild.

My Natural Aspirated engine is producing 560 lb-ft at 5300 rpm, and that is generating some kind of extreme mechanical stress, to spread on 50000 miles, maybe...
Christian
 
Originally Posted by miami993
Just making clear this is not making sense in term of technical compare.

Honda S2000 is a 2.2 liter with a torque160 lb-ft
The 6.2 Hellcat is turbocharged, and as long as it is not in the 2000 hp it is not in the same league as the engine of my car
The GT 350 is a good one but still with only 420 lb-ft of torque.
The Corvette in Le Mans covers rarely more than 3000 miles before entire rebuild.

My Natural Aspirated engine is producing 560 lb-ft at 5300 rpm, and that is generating some kind of extreme mechanical stress, to spread on 50000 miles, maybe...
Christian


The Hellcat engine is supercharged, I'm not sure why you feel that eliminates it here? Its cylinder pressures would be even higher than yours. I agree that the GT350 engine is a better comparison as it keeps this naturally-aspirated to naturally-aspirated theme. It's giving up 1.6L of displacement so of course it is going to be making less torque. Power density-wise, it is an excellent comparison here and its higher RPM ceiling makes it an even more demanding application. If we look at ft-lb per L of displacement to maintain the comparison, it's 80lb-ft/L, yours is 82lb-ft/L, which is extremely close.

The Hellcat engine is producing 650lb-ft, making it 105lb-ft/L by virtue of its forced induction.
 
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.
 
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.






This comes across as something BITOG might not appreciate.


Back to the lack of moly, there are likely organic friction modifiers included. These will not show on a typical uoa/voa.
 
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.


Did you see SOJ's remark about antimony earlier in the thread?

If not:

Originally Posted by SonofJoe
Antimony Dialkyl Dithio-Carbamates. Yuk!!

Ask your mate to show you what the affect of high treats of this stuff is on nitrile seal elastomers.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.


Did you see SOJ's remark about antimony earlier in the thread?

If not:

Originally Posted by SonofJoe
Antimony Dialkyl Dithio-Carbamates. Yuk!!

Ask your mate to show you what the affect of high treats of this stuff is on nitrile seal elastomers.



Hi OVERKILL, I did read pretty much all Molakule wrote on Antimony, yes.

Are you getting low temperature in Canada already?

Christian
 
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by PimTac





This comes across as something BITOG might not appreciate.


Back to the lack of moly, there are likely organic friction modifiers included. These will not show on a typical uoa/voa.





It seems Molakule is positive about it, check his link below:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729162

Christian


I'm interested in his take on the treat rate, as in that thread he doesn't recommend any more than 0.5% (less than 25ppm), whilst your quote indicates 840ppm. Be curious to see what he says on the matter.
 
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.


Did you see SOJ's remark about antimony earlier in the thread?

If not:

Originally Posted by SonofJoe
Antimony Dialkyl Dithio-Carbamates. Yuk!!

Ask your mate to show you what the affect of high treats of this stuff is on nitrile seal elastomers.



Hi OVERKILL, I did read pretty much all Molakule wrote on Antimony, yes.

Are you getting low temperature in Canada already?

Christian


Yup, parts of Canada have had snow for a while (out west) we got a brief dusting of it yesterday but it was really wet and didn't stick. This AM was below freezing, put the grille covers on the diesel. Hope we get some solid snow load this year, would be great to get out in it with the 4-wheeler.

BTW, thanks for the link to the thread. I commented on it in the post above this one, he seems to have a different opinion of it than SoJ. However, he recommends a much lower treat rate (or at least that was my takeaway) unless I'm missing something, so I hope he can chime in on that in this thread, as I'm interested in his take, as I'm sure you are as well.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by miami993
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by miami993
OilUzer said:
Still VERY curious about 0 moly in voa (plz read my previous post)! Is it compensated for with something else? I thought it was an essential ingredient in any oil not mentioning all these additives on the market ...

Thanks


That:
This will give you 840 ppm of antimony, or you could buy one of our Bio-SynXtra motor oils that contains approximately 420 ppm and added 5% for the total of 840 ppm of antimony.


Did you see SOJ's remark about antimony earlier in the thread?

If not:

Originally Posted by SonofJoe
Antimony Dialkyl Dithio-Carbamates. Yuk!!

Ask your mate to show you what the affect of high treats of this stuff is on nitrile seal elastomers.



Hi OVERKILL, I did read pretty much all Molakule wrote on Antimony, yes.

Are you getting low temperature in Canada already?

Christian


Yup, parts of Canada have had snow for a while (out west) we got a brief dusting of it yesterday but it was really wet and didn't stick. This AM was below freezing, put the grille covers on the diesel. Hope we get some solid snow load this year, would be great to get out in it with the 4-wheeler.

BTW, thanks for the link to the thread. I commented on it in the post above this one, he seems to have a different opinion of it than SoJ. However, he recommends a much lower treat rate (or at least that was my takeaway) unless I'm missing something, so I hope he can chime in on that in this thread, as I'm interested in his take, as I'm sure you are as well.

Same here Over, entering fresher season, temp do not go above 86*F anymore...
Do you mean my engine is dying?

Seriously, look at the formula, evolution in Tribology is exponential...
Christian
 
Last edited:
No no, nothing to do with your engine. SoJ's take seems to indicate that at higher treat rates, antimony causes problems with elastomer seals. This may be why Molakule recommended a lower treat rate. Since the lube you are using has a much, MUCH higher concentration, I'm curious as to his opinion on the matter. It's not a typical additive for engine oils, so its presentation here should spur some discussion.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
No no, nothing to do with your engine. SoJ's take seems to indicate that at higher treat rates, antimony causes problems with elastomer seals. This may be why Molakule recommended a lower treat rate. Since the lube you are using has a much, MUCH higher concentration, I'm curious as to his opinion on the matter. It's not a typical additive for engine oils, so its presentation here should spur some discussion.


It seems to be use in Euro formulation as EP AW + , but if you want Blackstone to check Antimony, you have to pay for that service. Terry Dyson report Antimony on his analysis. Some others as well. Two years of abuse and all the engine seals are "happy"...but I understand RLI might be a sensitive subject here.

BTW, Terry Dyson wrote on Antimony, and Molakule more than the "Old link" I did post.

Stay warm my friend.

Christian
 
Just to clarify my comment, it's not the Antimony that I was particularly concerned about but that innocent looking 'am' in carbAMate.

That 'am', in it's most basic form, tells you there's a chemical link back to AMmonia (NH3) & it's that active Nitrogen that can play havoc with fluorelastomers like Nitrile rubber (often known by it's Viton trade name). The interaction is complicated but in simple terms, the Nitrogen sucks the Fluorine atoms out of the rubber, leaving it brittle and prone to cracking.

There are several sources of Nitrogen in oil all of which can potentially attack seals (eg ashless dispersant). Moly DTC attacks seals too but if all you're adding is 100 ppm of Mo metal, it's not a biggie. However at extremely high doses, you're asking for trouble.

If you're going to add Antimony to an oil, add it as the ZDDP analogue (no Nitrogen), not the MoDTC one.
 
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