This monster is transplanted into a C5 Z06 (guessing by your quote of it being an MN12 gearbox)??
Is RedLine 10W40 good replacement for Mobil1 15W50
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Originally Posted By: supercity
What are you trying to achieve by using something other than M1 15w50?
RL 10w40 or maybe RL 5w40 would be a good alternative IMO, but Doug Hillary says no, interesting. You could maybe ask about Amsoil 10w40.
Hi supercity,
Page #1, post #6.
Many thanks for joining this thread.
Christian
What are you trying to achieve by using something other than M1 15w50?
RL 10w40 or maybe RL 5w40 would be a good alternative IMO, but Doug Hillary says no, interesting. You could maybe ask about Amsoil 10w40.
Hi supercity,
Page #1, post #6.
Many thanks for joining this thread.
Christian
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
miami993 - Well, firstly the engine builder gave you their recommendation and M1 15w-50 has a great reputation in high performance engines. And, going by your engine details, they should know best
The use of ester based lubricants is sometime overrated in IC engines. For engine bearings etc and at the temperatures you provided, M1 15W-50, a non ester lubricant, will do the job well
HTHS numbers are useful where a minimum is specified and that at least should be met. This is especially so where fuel dilution may be an issue. Using a significantly higher HTHS number gradually becomes unproductive
I agree.
Hi,
miami993 - Well, firstly the engine builder gave you their recommendation and M1 15w-50 has a great reputation in high performance engines. And, going by your engine details, they should know best
The use of ester based lubricants is sometime overrated in IC engines. For engine bearings etc and at the temperatures you provided, M1 15W-50, a non ester lubricant, will do the job well
HTHS numbers are useful where a minimum is specified and that at least should be met. This is especially so where fuel dilution may be an issue. Using a significantly higher HTHS number gradually becomes unproductive
I agree.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Hi miami993,
How did the Redline 10w40 hold up?
{Wow, my 3000th post!}
Hi A_Harman,
In page #2 of this thread I was writing:
-The Vacuum value at idle is steady as ever with or without AC.
-Engine noise is drastically disminished.
-Oil pressure is 4 PSI higher in any condition.
-For the first time ever, I can start the AC at iddle in any condition without entering the Stall Saver mode...
What I have as a fact today is a impressive noise reduction, from the valve-train and from the piston rocking.
Check the video above, as if it is a video and is no scientific demonstration there, the idle noise is quite exceptional for this type of engine.
To tell you more about engine wear, tear down will tell the day it will happen (I try to make that day the latest possible)
Another subject that is showing an improvement in term of "sealing" in this engine is shown in the video below.
This is a start from the car after a full month (August) inside the Florida garage (really warm) without any rotation from the crankshaft for 30 days.
I was very impressed on the Oil Pressure building up...faster than all other lubricants I used in this engine during the last 2 years:
Christian
Hi miami993,
How did the Redline 10w40 hold up?
{Wow, my 3000th post!}
Hi A_Harman,
In page #2 of this thread I was writing:
-The Vacuum value at idle is steady as ever with or without AC.
-Engine noise is drastically disminished.
-Oil pressure is 4 PSI higher in any condition.
-For the first time ever, I can start the AC at iddle in any condition without entering the Stall Saver mode...
What I have as a fact today is a impressive noise reduction, from the valve-train and from the piston rocking.
Check the video above, as if it is a video and is no scientific demonstration there, the idle noise is quite exceptional for this type of engine.
To tell you more about engine wear, tear down will tell the day it will happen (I try to make that day the latest possible)
Another subject that is showing an improvement in term of "sealing" in this engine is shown in the video below.
This is a start from the car after a full month (August) inside the Florida garage (really warm) without any rotation from the crankshaft for 30 days.
I was very impressed on the Oil Pressure building up...faster than all other lubricants I used in this engine during the last 2 years:
Christian
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
RP HPS (as well as their XPR) is a grp IV with a dash of grp V.
Any proof / documentation of the base oil claim?
I thought HPS was pretty similar to the original RP w/Synerlec, which I don't think used IV/V base oils.
RP HPS (as well as their XPR) is a grp IV with a dash of grp V.
Any proof / documentation of the base oil claim?
I thought HPS was pretty similar to the original RP w/Synerlec, which I don't think used IV/V base oils.
Originally Posted By: buster
A friend of mine that does a lot of racing doesn't like Redline and prefers Mobil 1 15w50. I was just talking to him about it. Different engine though.
Thanks for that valuable info buster.
However, the engine type, racing type, different engine values such as HP, Oil and Water Temperatures, RPM red-line...and type of Redline oil that was tested by your friend (obviously the type(s) he didn't like) will add some accuracy to your statement.
Many thanks in advance for filling the blanks.
Christian
A friend of mine that does a lot of racing doesn't like Redline and prefers Mobil 1 15w50. I was just talking to him about it. Different engine though.
Thanks for that valuable info buster.
However, the engine type, racing type, different engine values such as HP, Oil and Water Temperatures, RPM red-line...and type of Redline oil that was tested by your friend (obviously the type(s) he didn't like) will add some accuracy to your statement.
Many thanks in advance for filling the blanks.
Christian
KV100 of 17.10cSt it looks more like a 65/35 0W-40/5W-50 blend based on the publisheWith a d PDS spec's. Of course we don't know how close the RL PDS spec's are to what Blackstone would come up with.
When you dump the 10W-40 in favour of this blend I'd fill to the minimum oil level only initially. Then take the car for a run to check the hot oil pressure to see how it compares to what you want.
If it's lower top up to the full mark with 5W-50. If it's still still lower than what you want don't worry about it, it's just the VI affect. You're still running an oil with a higher HTHSV than M1 15W-50. If it's higher top up with half a quart of 0W-40 and retest noting the amount the OP has dropped. If your OP is still too high and you think a further half quart will not make enough of a difference don't add anymore 0W-40 buy rather buy a quart of TGMO, MGMO, Sustina or G-Oil 0W-20 and add in half pint increments till you get what you want. (You could buy a qt of RL 0W-20 but that's really a light 30wt and the suggested 0W-20's are very light oils so adding a small amount will have a more noticeable effect.)
Anyway, that should give you an idea of how to do this.
When you dump the 10W-40 in favour of this blend I'd fill to the minimum oil level only initially. Then take the car for a run to check the hot oil pressure to see how it compares to what you want.
If it's lower top up to the full mark with 5W-50. If it's still still lower than what you want don't worry about it, it's just the VI affect. You're still running an oil with a higher HTHSV than M1 15W-50. If it's higher top up with half a quart of 0W-40 and retest noting the amount the OP has dropped. If your OP is still too high and you think a further half quart will not make enough of a difference don't add anymore 0W-40 buy rather buy a quart of TGMO, MGMO, Sustina or G-Oil 0W-20 and add in half pint increments till you get what you want. (You could buy a qt of RL 0W-20 but that's really a light 30wt and the suggested 0W-20's are very light oils so adding a small amount will have a more noticeable effect.)
Anyway, that should give you an idea of how to do this.
Update on my findings...after two more tear down it is confirmed my last engine, the one mentioned at the beginning of this thread, is running on Bio-SynXtra HD Plus SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 Low Ash from RLI and it will keep it.
Thank you everyone for helping.
Christian
Thank you everyone for helping.
Christian
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