351 Windsor locked up from sitting

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So 3 years ago my step grandpa passed away and my step dad got his truck it's an 85 F250 with a 4 speed manual and a 351 it ran okay before and needed some brake work and needed some carburetor work but all the major stuff was fun. It's definitely an old beater Farm River truck. my step dad drove it to his house and parked it on his property and it set for 3 years and now he told me that I could have it if I got it running and could get it off of his property. I went to have a look at it put a fresh battery in it and all it does is the starter clicks. I try to turn the crankshaft and the engine will not turn all the accessories are free. I use some deep Creep by seafoam through the spark plug holes and that didn't seem to work immediately I'm letting it sit for a couple days now with deep creep in there and transmission fluid I'm a little surprised that seized up in only three years. is there anything more that I can do that I haven't already mentioned that doesn't involve major surgery. Thanks everybody for the help. My grandpa Jack loved this truck so it would mean the world to me to get it going again. It's definitely a beater floorboards are rusted and I need to repair them need some brake work needs carburetor work but overall it would be a very good beater truck if I can get it to run.
 
Buddy of mine had a 351c in a boat, and the humidity got to some of the cylinders through open valves and caused enough rust to seize up the pistons. Eventually he pulled the engine and tore it down. His opinion was that if he had used fogging oil in all the cylinders it would have prevented the problem. Also if he used fogging oil or something similar, and worked the engine with a breaker bar, then he could have freed it up and it may not have needed to be rebuilt at all. I would suggest keep trying lube in the cylinders and rotating via breaker bar on the crankshaft. The reason I like fogging oil is that its easy to spray and foams up to cover the entire inner cylinder. Seafoam or Amsoil PowerFoam might also behave the same way.
 
Originally Posted by Nick1994
Long pipe on the end of a breaker bar.


That's what I was thinking. This engine cant have very high compression, and if the SPs are removed, there should be minimal resistance.

I too am surprised that it would be seized up.
 
About 7 years ago i ran across an olds ciera ( 93 model) with 28k or so on it that had been sitting for 3 years or more. It would not turn over , even with the plugs out. I put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and turned it over.

1 cylinder had water in it, rusty water. I figured it must have a bad head gasket. I ended up getting if freed up enough to run. The head gasket was not bad. It just sat for 3 years or more with one of the valves open and had condensation build up. I drove it up until last year with no smoke or oil usage. had 80k when i gave it away.
 
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Acetone + ATF in the cylinders and work it with a breaker bar. No rush, I've heard of seized engines needing weeks of persuasion to break free!

Working against the weather a bit, I'd imagine it would be easier when it was really hot out.
 
I'm thinking water got in there. my 1970 351W sat for 17 years and turned over just fine. we did have the i300 on the F150 lock up because the tarp over the engine bay was leaking water right into the carb. I drained close to a quart of water from the engine. we used oil down the plug holes, used a wrench - got it running and drove it with no problems.
 
Agree with the breaker bar. Keep putting the Seafoam to it. After a few days, maybe you can try rocking it while in 4th gear.
 
How rough can I get with the crank bolt though I don't want to break it off
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
How rough can I get with the crank bolt though I don't want to break it off


It's huge, you aren't going to break it.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by ram_man
How rough can I get with the crank bolt though I don't want to break it off


It's huge, you aren't going to break it.


Good to know I'm going to try it again tomorrow it's been sitting 3 days soaking so hopefully something happens.
 
and you can read by the light emitted by the starter cables.

My Dad retrieved a few seized engines with Penetrene (a brand we find locally here) down the plug holes, let sit, then rock backwards and forwards gaining a little more motion each time until a full revolution achieved, rather than jamming all the debris in one direction.

When it turned freely then tried to start.
 
Over the years my brother and I freed up several boat engines that were "frozen". GM 350's Ford 351's and GM I-6 to name a few. Along with OPE and a car engine or two. We removed the plugs, filled the cylinders with MMO and let it sit for 24 hours give or take. Several hours into the soak we'd use a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and hit it pretty hard with a rubber hammer to set up some vibration. After 24 hours or so they broke free. I would imagine any lubricant with a viscosity like MMO and some penetrating characteristics would work, we always had MMO on hand. Bottom line is don't go ape on that crank bolt without removing the plugs and lubing the cylinders first, then let it soak would be my advice.
 
I've heard of a cylinder-full of VERY HOT oil being used for this. Down the plug holes.

Used sump oil would do, since you heat it to smoke point and you wont want to use it in the engine after that. Probably most likely to work with the cylinder at or near BDC, but that is probably the cylinder most likely to be rusted anyway.

Probably a last resort after penetrants, because if it doesn't work its going to be tricky getting it out so you can try something else.
 
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