First Used Oil Analysis-2018 Odyssey(3.5 V6 Earth Dreams DI)

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Hello, I'm new to the forum and just wanting to share. I recently got my first used oil analysis for our 2018 EX with 13,400 miles. I ran the factory fill oil for 5,400 miles(40% OLM) dumped it, and changed it with Toyota Genuine Motor oil together with Honda A01 oil filter. I ran this setup for the next 7,940 miles(5% OLM, 13,340 on the odometer), drained it and sent the sample to Blackstone Labs. Currently I am still using the same oil+filter combo and will update on my next oil change.

Here's the result:

00001.jpg
 
Curious why you didnt upgrade filters?

...also curious as to whether your MM called for a filter change or you just did it on your own?



UD
 
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I think you jumped the gun on your first UOA. Do a UOA where the mileage starts over 20,000 for the OCI.

The copper is high which is either break-in or a gasket sealant. Unless vehicle has oil cooler.

NAPA UOA is about $16.
 
They do like a lot of moly in the latest Toyota 0w20 oil. I guess they like the extra friction and wear benefits. Most other oils have around 70 ppm moly.
KV100 was 7.08 cSt, which is fine, showing fuel dilution didn't ruin the Stribeck Curve here. I start getting concerned if it gets to about 6, although there have been a few 1.5T Honda engine's UOAs here that finish an oil interval with 5 or 6 and don't appear to really suffer extra wear from loss of some fully hydrodynamic in there.
Nothing wrong here, since the engine is still a bit new. Expect much lower numbers later though.
I'd switch to a Fram Ultra oil filter here for better performance on insolubles, and the Ultra has the best performance of any oil filter I've seen.
 
Originally Posted by UncleDave
Curious why you didnt upgrade filters?

...also curious as to whether your MM called for a filter change or you just did it on your own?



UD


UD, I stockpiled the A01 version of the Honda oil filter knowing they've been discontinued(is this true?) and being replaced indefinitely by the A02 version. I got an awesome deal from Handa Accesories website, and got the filter for $3.84 each, shipped. However, I am considering upgrading to FRAM Ultra or even just the Tough Guard whenever I ran out of A01 filters. I have 3 Honda vehicles that calls for the same oil filter anyway.

The first MM(code A1) called for an oil change only and tire rotation, but I went ahead and replaced the oil filter. The second MM(code B1) which I did recently showed oil+oil filter change with tire rotation. But from now on, I will follow Honda's recommendation of changing the oil filter every other oil change.

Furthermore, the oil filter placement is so awkward and it gets messy whenever you take it off, one has to be really careful or else the oil leaks from the filter/filter housing and seeps around the cross member and surrounding suspension components.
 
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Originally Posted by diyjake
What made you use Toyota 0W20?


Hi, I actually did some research across the boards specially here in BITOG and read positive feedback regarding TGMO, and I can also obtain it easily. Win win!
 
Ditto what others have said though I don't find anything wrong with using Honda OEM filters. At least there's a made-to-fit end cap filter tool available for them that makes removal easier, especially if space is limited. I've been unable to find an equivalent for the Fram Ultra filter that fits Hondas.

My only suggestion would be to switch to a lab like Oil Analyzers, Inc. that uses gas chromotography to gauge fuel dilution. Much more precise than Blackstone's method and no more expensive.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
XG7317. Gee, that was hard.


If you're responding to my post, the issue was not the filter itself but the end-cap removal tool for it.
 
Originally Posted by Ambo87
Originally Posted by UncleDave
Curious why you didnt upgrade filters?

...also curious as to whether your MM called for a filter change or you just did it on your own?



UD


UD, I stockpiled the A01 version of the Honda oil filter knowing they've been discontinued(is this true?) and being replaced indefinitely by the A02 version. I got an awesome deal from Handa Accesories website, and got the filter for $3.84 each, shipped. However, I am considering upgrading to FRAM Ultra or even just the Tough Guard whenever I ran out of A01 filters. I have 3 Honda vehicles that calls for the same oil filter anyway.

The first MM(code A1) called for an oil change only and tire rotation, but I went ahead and replaced the oil filter. The second MM(code B1) which I did recently showed oil+oil filter change with tire rotation. But from now on, I will follow Honda's recommendation of changing the oil filter every other oil change.

Furthermore, the oil filter placement is so awkward and it gets messy whenever you take it off, one has to be really careful or else the oil leaks from the filter/filter housing and seeps around the cross member and surrounding suspension components.


Good price on an A01, yeah they are pretty much gone from what I see. Too Bad. I like it better than the A02.

I wouldn't run a 1 or 2 - 2 OCIS (but thats me) on either.

I'm wary of running non-backed media (wire or plastic) for 2 OCIs in my situation - so I switched to the FU out of comfort in the long haul OCI's and filter efficiency - the DI pump is very sensitive to particles.

I run an XG7317 on my ridgeline with a filtermag, This particular filter fits the Ridgeline, and my Titan so I get a "twofer" on the part..
I tow at the limit regularly with the ridgeline over very harsh terrain so every little bit of cleanliness I can give it matters... (to me)

Changing the filter is a horrible mess on the Ridge as well - A zip lock bag over the filter and a diaper across the cross member make it workable.

Uncle Dave
 
UD, I'm actually considering on switching to FRAM for the Odyssey. Regarding the zip lock bag, that's a very good idea! Anyway, I read somewhere that this guy wrapped the cross member of his Odyssey with aluminum foil prior to draining the oil filter and it was flawless after he got done lol Guess its just a matter of being creative!

Your input is duly noted, thanks!
 
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Originally Posted by Ambo87
UD, I'm actually considering on switching to FRAM for the Odyssey. Regarding the zip lock bag, that's a very good idea! Anyway, I read somewhere that this guy wrapped the cross member of his Odyssey with aluminum foil prior to draining the oil filter and it was flawless after he got done lol Guess its just a matter of being creative!

Your input is duly noted, thanks!

I do something similar with our Odyssey by using foil to make a "DIY" Form-A-Funnel. It's cheap, takes like 15 seconds to "make/form," and there's no mess.

Use this as a guide:
https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B003V9JWHO
 
Update!

Here's my recent UOA with Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20(5 qts.) and TGMO 0w20(.7 qts or 22oz.) total of 5.7 qts. with oil filter changed. Oil had 8,144 miles.

The vehicle was driven normally aside from the last 2,200sh miles of road trip from Tulsa, OK to Seattle WA. During the trip, a 5x8 U-haul cargo trailer was attached with roughly 2,600 lbs. of stuff. The van had about 400 lbs. with the driver, passengers and luggage. The trip had a lot of long steep inclines in the Rockies and Cascades with elevations reaching up to 11,000 feet. Driving on steep inclines, it was very noticeable that the 3.5 V6 was struggling and loosing power with the RPM's reaching 3,700-4,500. No overheating or anything unusual during the whole trip and ambient temperature varied between 40-95 degrees Fahrenheit due to location and elevation.

I'm curious if the high altitude, high RPM moments/stretches compounded and caused the aluminum and copper to rise? Currently, the van is good, drives fine and sounds normal. In fact, the MPG slightly improved.

By the way, a Lucas upper cylinder lube/injector cleaner was added before I drained the oil.

-VCM disabled
-Honda A01 oil filter
-AEM DryFLo air filter
-Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20--5 qts
-TGMO 0w20--.7 qts(22oz)

I would gladly appreciate any inputs!!!

UOA UPDATE.jpeg.png
 
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Originally Posted by Ambo87


I'm curious if the high altitude, high RPM moments/stretches compounded and caused the aluminum and copper to rise? Currently, the van is good, drives fine and sounds normal. In fact, the MPG slightly improved.

\

I would think that this would be a direct correlation. However just a few ppm I would think is statistically insignificant . I would hope to see them trend downwards eventually. I wonder what the copper is coming from do these engines have a engine oil to water cooler? I would expect it all to be done leaching out of sealants by now.
 
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