Oil recommendations please

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Hey guys.

I am currently building an LS and trying to decide what oil to run. 1200hp on a turbo pushing up to 30 psi. I will be running larger than stock clearances. .0025 on rods and mains with #5 main at .00275.

I have a high pressure pump I was planning to run but had someone today try to tell me to run high volume and run 8.5 quarts. I still think I need high pressure to keep my pressure up with the larger clearance but not sure on the high pressure or the 8.5 quarts. I could run HV/HP.

I am wanting to run Joe Gibbs break in oil and then prefer a Mobil or valvoline for regular changes. Need to know what weight to get on the joe Gibbs and the type for regular changes.

Any input on filtration would be nice.

Thanks in advance.
 
What is the break in oil supposed do? What does your engines builder recommend?
 
An oil pump is a positive displacement device that will push a given volume of oil per revolution. Restriction to this flow caused by the bearing clearances is what results in oil pressure. The faster the engine, the faster the pump, and the more oil flow. This is balanced by oil getting forced from bearings faster at higher RPM such that higher feed pressure is needed to replenish the bearings. You need a pump with enough volume with large clearances and a turbo to feed, or you will have low oil pressure regardless of oil pump relief valve settings.

Oil cooling will be essential if you want to use this build to full potential. Perhaps consider a thermostatic bypass valve and an oversized oil cooler so the oil warms up quickly but has plenty of cooling capacity when you thrash the engine. Even 8.5 quarts will heat up real quick when pushing that much HP. Install oil temp and oil pressure gauges and learn how the engine reacts at different RPM, load, and temperature so you know when to back off before something expensive gets fried.

If this is a track vehicle that gets periods of extreme use but low total mileage, perhaps a specialty racing oil that prioritizes short term protection instead of long OCI. If you're building a street machine that could see a fair number of miles but less time under max load, then a more mainstream 10w-40 or 15w-40 HDEO perhaps. Mobil1 and Valvoline are both solid options. For a build this expensive, UOA would be useful to see how things wear in and make sure the oil is adequately protecting the engine.

Use the highest capacity filter you can fit in a brand you trust.
 
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M-1 15W50 comes to mind, for more Zn, M-1 20W50 motorcycle. I don't thing you need anything that exotic when Delo SAE 30 or SAE 40 will do the trick at a 5th the price.
Delvac 1630 and 1640 optional.
 
Run a dual oil filter remote mount with twin Fram XG-8A Ultra's on it - that setup can handle 50 gpm of oil flow, if needed.
 
If you prefer Mobil or Valvoline Id run VR1 Racing oil 20w-50. Been using it for years with excellent results!
 
Originally Posted by userfriendly
A flat tappet lifter spins over the nose of a lobe, it's not dragged over.

Yes, it rotates. There is still a whole lot of sliding going on. zinc is needed. Any 20W50 motocycle or racing oil is good choice.

I actually prefer a quality MC oil since the maker knows most of them will be sitting and make sure there is a good PH buffer and shear stable.

Rod
 
Are you drag racing or road racing?
My recommendation is to put it together with buttons and zippers because at 30 psi of boost, you're going to be disassembling it a lot.
Heck, it may even disassemble itself.

All kidding aside, the issue that most people overlook is the drain side of the system. Everybody talks about the pressure side of the system: high volume oil pumps running at high pressure with loose bearing clearances. But they don't seem to realize that if you're going to maintain oil pressure with the engine under power, it has to get back to the pan so it can be picked up and recirculated to maintain steady oil pressure. I've never been a fan of running 80+psi pressure because the higher flow that it causes just sucks the oil from the pan faster, and if it can't drain back, the engine will lose oil pressure, and that is when bearing damage occurs. Running high boost with high oil pressure will cause high crankcase pressures, and if it rises any higher than about 6 inches of water, oil will not drain from the top of the engine, and the pan will be sucked dry quickly. A small block Chevy will run about 6 gal/min of oil flow at full power, 6000-ish rpm, so it will drain an 8-qt pan in about 20 seconds, which sounds safe if you're only running an 8-second pass on a drag strip. But you also have to worry about acceleration forces, which will make the oil slosh to the back of the pan, and crank windage, which will make the oil slosh to the right side of the pan and also to stay in the right bank cylinder head rockerbox.
 
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a phone call or so to the pros is the best bet. my first thought as usual is Redline + their excellent Ester oils with several race oil options, surely cheaper than that engine!
 
Food for thought Or oil for thought 🤔

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Originally Posted by Mccull
Hey guys.

I am currently building an LS and trying to decide what oil to run. 1200hp on a turbo pushing up to 30 psi. I will be running larger than stock clearances. .0025 on rods and mains with #5 main at .00275.

I have a high pressure pump I was planning to run but had someone today try to tell me to run high volume and run 8.5 quarts. I still think I need high pressure to keep my pressure up with the larger clearance but not sure on the high pressure or the 8.5 quarts. I could run HV/HP.

I am wanting to run Joe Gibbs break in oil and then prefer a Mobil or valvoline for regular changes. Need to know what weight to get on the joe Gibbs and the type for regular changes.

Any input on filtration would be nice.

Thanks in advance.


IMO Mobil 1 15W-50 would be ideal
 
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