1987 BMW 535is - pennzoil 20w50/10w30 platinum - 3,369 miles

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This is my 2nd UOA on this car and I am puzzled as to where the copper is coming from other than Blackstone's suggestions. Could it be a fuel additive? Vehicle runs like a top and I frequently drive from Lafayette to New Orleans and back (260+ round trip) so I put miles on fast. I use MMO in the gas, at least a 32oz bottle between OCIs. My other idea was leeching of the sealant used when I had the timing chain done over a year ago, they took off vavlecover/front chain cover. Other than the copper I am pleased with the results. I used 4 qts 20w50 and 2 10w30 platinum SN+.

B6E0518E-F064-4418-AA14-2588FA810E59.jpeg
 
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I always used 20w50 I'm my m30's and m20's during Midwest summers. With the miles that you have, I wouldn't mix in any 10w30.

Could the timing chain still be breaking in? Is there copper in that?
 
I ran mine on dino 20w50 yr round. They will run fine on just about any oil. All E 28s were spec'ced for 20w50 Maybe that spray on copper gasket goop? Ever check the oil pressure? Decently maintained examples have gone over 400k before needing engine work.
 
I ran MMO in the gas non-stop in my Jeep, at a higher than recommended rate for years. No copper was showing up in the UOA's. So I don't think it has anything to do with the MMO.
 
Those M30s will run forever; just keep the valves adjusted and change the oil every 5k miles or so.
 
Originally Posted by andyd
I ran mine on dino 20w50 yr round. They will run fine on just about any oil. All E 28s were spec'ced for 20w50 Maybe that spray on copper gasket goop? Ever check the oil pressure? Decently maintained examples have gone over 400k before needing engine work.


I ran straight castrol 20w50 in my old 528e for years with an OCOD (preBITOG days) ran when I sold it. But I've migrated to lighter oils in the winter ie Rotella/Delo with great results. Oil pressure, other than the light on the dash, no. I have no idea what the mechanic used as sealant other than I knew it was red and it was kinda wet for a long time, weird. No major leaks to speak of in those areas. There's no oil cooler either. I'm sure I can push this engine 400k+ Baring catastrophic failure.

Originally Posted by dave1251
15W40 HDEO works well in this application also.


I have some 15w40 T4 on deck after I run this M1 15w50 out to 5k. Have ran HDEO in the past, no complaints here.

Originally Posted by JamesBond
I always used 20w50 I'm my m30's and m20's during Midwest summers. With the miles that you have, I wouldn't mix in any 10w30.

Could the timing chain still be breaking in? Is there copper in that?


No way man, got to be broken in by now. I've easily put 20k on it since that repair.
 
Originally Posted by MCompact
Those M30s will run forever; just keep the valves adjusted and change the oil every 5k miles or so.

And replace the cam spray bar bolts with the updated part or drill + safety wire the originals.
 
I drained some oil out and put s bottle of Ceratec in the crank case last night. Hopefully it helps. Otherwise I'm chalking it up to sealants and or someone used anti seize on some bolts.
 
If you want to use HDEO, Mobile Delvac 15W-40 is excellent. You will see Diesel approvals all over the bottle, but look closely, you'll see gasoline approvals too, API SN I believe. At my Walmart, price is unbeatable.
This oil wins the "Least expensive oil I would use without reservation" award for me.
Many folks on this board swear by this oil and lots of Diesel truckers use it. Delvac is what BMW dealerships used to use prior to Synthetic in my region of the country.
18 BMW's later, I sure wish I still had my E28 535is!!!! My E28 was the first car I used in a drivers school on a open race track and the addiction began ....

My 1995 740I with 275K miles used to use Delvac, I switched to Syn many years ago. This engine runs very strong and uses a quart between 5K mile changes. Engine has never been opened except of course for leaking Valve cover gaskets every 60K miles.
 
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