Effect of Oil on Coyote BBQ Tick?

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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by PimTac
This is a odd name for a tick. I perused the link briefly and there is a mention that this tick is actually from the main bearings.

I usually associate a tick with the valvetrain.


Some guys have had their engines torn down and the rod and main bearings look fine.

Some guys theorize it's cause by oil cavitation in the oil pump or rod/main bearings ... but I have a hard time buying into that. If it was cavitation in the oil pump, then why hasn't Ford redesigned the oil pump since 2011 when this ticking noise started in the Coyote engines ... but instead replace short/long blocks.


I read some more in that forum. The threads are long on this subject. A lot of speculation on what it is but piston slap keeps coming up as a common answer.

This is not something I would be happy with. New engines should not be ticking or knocking right off the showroom floor. I hope Ford finds the cause.


The "piston slap" is something that came along with the 2018+ Gen3 Coyote ... theory is due the the plasma sprayed cylinder liners like in the 5.2L GT350s.

The BBQ/typewriter tick is a different animal, and can happen in Coyote engines since 2011. So the 2018+ Coyote can have two different engine noised going on.

Yeah, there must be 100 threads on the ticking noises ... and some of the theories are wild. What's even more amazing is why hasn't Ford fixed the issue, I'm sure them must know what it is caused by.



This because there are hundreds of forms from nearly every manufacturer and there are threads complaining about tick.
 
What's super strange about this whole typewriter tick issue is many guys will notice it right after an oil change, using the same brand and viscosity of oil, and same exact oil filter.

I was thinking maybe that's because the thin layer of anti-wear additives that built up on parts get washed away with the new oil, forgot what that's called exactly. Dnewton has talked about it many times on this forum. And many guys claim the tick slowly goes away (anti-wear additives building up due to heat) as the miles get put on the oil, then after an oil change it will again come back. This also seems to correlate with anti-wear additives like Cera Tec almost instantly making the ticking go away.

So why would an engine start ticking right after an oil change is the same exact oil is used - ie, Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20?
 
Maybe there is air getting into one of the oil galleries that doesn't quite purge, and the downstream pulsations in the oiling system are causing the air pocket to expand and contract and "hammer" irregularly.
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Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Mine has it even with living on a steady diet of Motorcraft 5W50 its whole life. I have tried Ceratec and MOS2 randomly with no change. There is a TSB for earlier Coyotes in Mustangs to replace the stretch belt on the AC with a conventional tensioner style belt, the stretch belt was supposedly pulling on the nose of the crank causing excessive main bearing wear. I have the kit for my car as I already have the updated timing cover with the holes for a tensioner and idler pulley so it should be a pretty straight change.

Why did you install the updated timing cover? Was it because you planned on installing the TSB kit?
 
Originally Posted by wtd
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Mine has it even with living on a steady diet of Motorcraft 5W50 its whole life. I have tried Ceratec and MOS2 randomly with no change. There is a TSB for earlier Coyotes in Mustangs to replace the stretch belt on the AC with a conventional tensioner style belt, the stretch belt was supposedly pulling on the nose of the crank causing excessive main bearing wear. I have the kit for my car as I already have the updated timing cover with the holes for a tensioner and idler pulley so it should be a pretty straight change.

Why did you install the updated timing cover? Was it because you planned on installing the TSB kit?


Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. Mine came with the new part number timing cover stock. There are literally 2 holes in the cover not being used. I bought the proper thread chaser from ARP to run through before I mount the tensioner and idler. Supposedly I have to reflash the PCM to tell it I no longer have a stretch belt. I can always slide the car in at work on a Saturday or try to borrow an IDS and flash it at home.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
What's super strange about this whole typewriter tick issue is many guys will notice it right after an oil change, using the same brand and viscosity of oil, and same exact oil filter.

I was thinking maybe that's because the thin layer of anti-wear additives that built up on parts get washed away with the new oil, forgot what that's called exactly. Dnewton has talked about it many times on this forum. And many guys claim the tick slowly goes away (anti-wear additives building up due to heat) as the miles get put on the oil, then after an oil change it will again come back. This also seems to correlate with anti-wear additives like Cera Tec almost instantly making the ticking go away.

So why would an engine start ticking right after an oil change is the same exact oil is used - ie, Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20?


Are you thinking tribofilm retention or tribochemical barrier?

Btw, they should not call it typewriter tick. As much as it sounds like it, younger people may not know what typewriter is
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Originally Posted by HondaTech250
I would wager that the 6.7 in the video has a wrist pin knock.

Could this be the same problem he Mustangs are seeing, who knows?

Well, the proof in the pudding would be to run these motors out, and see what breaks. IIRC GM's LS motors are known (or were) for piston slap. But they seemed to rack up the miles without regard to the noise.

Not saying I'd be happy with it, just that, maybe if one can't hear it inside the car, then it doesn't exist. Turn up the radio.

Originally Posted by OilUzer
Btw, they should not call it typewriter tick. As much as it sounds like it, younger people may not know what typewriter is
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Sad but true!
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Originally Posted by wtd
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Mine has it even with living on a steady diet of Motorcraft 5W50 its whole life. I have tried Ceratec and MOS2 randomly with no change. There is a TSB for earlier Coyotes in Mustangs to replace the stretch belt on the AC with a conventional tensioner style belt, the stretch belt was supposedly pulling on the nose of the crank causing excessive main bearing wear. I have the kit for my car as I already have the updated timing cover with the holes for a tensioner and idler pulley so it should be a pretty straight change.

Why did you install the updated timing cover? Was it because you planned on installing the TSB kit?


Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. Mine came with the new part number timing cover stock. There are literally 2 holes in the cover not being used. I bought the proper thread chaser from ARP to run through before I mount the tensioner and idler. Supposedly I have to reflash the PCM to tell it I no longer have a stretch belt. I can always slide the car in at work on a Saturday or try to borrow an IDS and flash it at home.

I see. I doubt my car has the updated cover since it was an early build 14 built in 02/2013.
 
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