Effect of Oil on Coyote BBQ Tick?

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rsalan

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Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 Tick Gone!

BBQ Tick Fix

Hi all,

For those that don't know, the 5.0L Coyote is known to develop an engine tick that usually occurs after the first oil change for some. There are a number of people on the Mustang forums that have stated that PUP 5w20 has quieted down or cured their ticking, some even switching from M1 EP 5w20.

Could oil really be affecting this phenomenon that blatantly? Especially between two off-the-shelf synthetics? FYI, I don't have the tick but I bought the car at 8800 mi and immediately changed it out to PUP (not because of those threads).
 
It is hard to believe that one particular oil has solved this.

The problem is the engine and not the oil.
 
100% different oils are better at ticks then others, if you have a ticking condition you owe it to yourself to try different things to combat it. Search hemi tick and lubrication, there are some threads on similar problems, although I know the Coyote engines is a different issue then hemi tick.
 
Even when given video evidence and have many people all share their experience with this, many members will still through shade on the use of different lubricants to quiet ticks. there is real good news though, what difference does it make when changing oil is something you have to do anyway? It is a maintenance item, not much to loose to try something else if your engine starts ticking. I can say as a matter of fact many people have silenced their ticks using different oils, especially oils that the oil forum used to consider as being "hearty", High in EP/AW additives and different base oils. You can try viscosity, sometimes that helps as well, but I can also say as a matter of fact that viscosity isn't always the answer and sometimes in those situations aw/ep and different base oils can be.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Originally Posted by redhat
Why is it called a bbq tick?

Sounds delicious


I agree, I thought about eating a bbq pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw then driving a 5.0 Mustang -- sounds fun.
 
Originally Posted by redhat
Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Originally Posted by redhat
Why is it called a bbq tick?

Sounds delicious


I agree, I thought about eating a bbq pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw then driving a 5.0 Mustang -- sounds fun.


It's short for BBQ ignitor. You turn on the gas of your gas stove or gas BBQ grill and you here the ignitor ticking.
 
Possible. Good syn would cure valvetrain noise on Mitsu V6's due to the oil holes feeding the HLA's having been spec'd too small. The syn just got through there more easily.
 
If it was me and just out of curiosity, I would compare the voa and the spec. of one of the so called "noisier" oil vs. one of the so called "quieter" oil of the same grade and see if there are any significant differences. e.g. moly, ester, zddp, etc. That would be a good start!

Edit: fixed spelling. We want a "quieter" oil and not a quiter oil.
Some members are English teachers and get mad over spelling!
grin2.gif
 
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This is a odd name for a tick. I perused the link briefly and there is a mention that this tick is actually from the main bearings.

I usually associate a tick with the valvetrain.
 
Originally Posted by dustyroads
Originally Posted by redhat
Why is it called a bbq tick?

It's short for BBQ ignitor. You turn on the gas of your gas stove or gas BBQ grill and you here the ignitor ticking.


Ford calls it a "typewriter tick" ... like a monkey randomly hitting the keys on a typewriter.

OP - I've read 100s of threads on the tick, and may guys have tried different oils and it didn't help the ticking much if any. And many guys have put in additives like Liquid Moly's "Cera Tec" and their tick almost instantly disappeared.

I think the tick is caused by too much mechanical clearance (maybe rod side clearance), and an additive (and maybe some special formulated oils) give the engine a bit more cushion between colliding parts which will quiet the noise down or "cure" it. And some guys never get the BBQ/typewriter tick on the Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend, so that tells me it must be caused by differences in engines due to parts tolerances.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
This is a odd name for a tick. I perused the link briefly and there is a mention that this tick is actually from the main bearings.

I usually associate a tick with the valvetrain.


Some guys have had their engines torn down and the rod and main bearings look fine.

Some guys theorize it's cause by oil cavitation in the oil pump or rod/main bearings ... but I have a hard time buying into that. If it was cavitation in the oil pump, then why hasn't Ford redesigned the oil pump since 2011 when this ticking noise started in the Coyote engines ... but instead replace short/long blocks.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by PimTac
This is a odd name for a tick. I perused the link briefly and there is a mention that this tick is actually from the main bearings.

I usually associate a tick with the valvetrain.


Some guys have had their engines torn down and the rod and main bearings look fine.

Some guys theorize it's cause by oil cavitation in the oil pump or rod/main bearings ... but I have a hard time buying into that. If it was cavitation in the oil pump, then why hasn't Ford redesigned the oil pump since 2011 when this ticking noise started in the Coyote engines ... but instead replace short/long blocks.






I read some more in that forum. The threads are long on this subject. A lot of speculation on what it is but piston slap keeps coming up as a common answer.

This is not something I would be happy with. New engines should not be ticking or knocking right off the showroom floor. I hope Ford finds the cause.
 
I've never had this issue with my 2014 Mustang GT and I've used 5W-20 Motorcraft blend the entire 30,000 miles so far.

I changed the oil in my fiancee's 2017 F150 with the 5.0 for the first time back in June when the truck was a year old and had around 3,500 miles on it using 5W-20 Motorcraft blend. On the first start after the oil change, the engine was making a loud tapping noise that lasted a minute or so and finally went away. So far the noise has not reoccurred but it had me concerned.

I've read many blogs about this and listened to many videos and would not be happy if it happened to my vehicle. My drive train warranty is expired so hopefully mine doesn't develop this.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by PimTac
This is a odd name for a tick. I perused the link briefly and there is a mention that this tick is actually from the main bearings.

I usually associate a tick with the valvetrain.


Some guys have had their engines torn down and the rod and main bearings look fine.

Some guys theorize it's cause by oil cavitation in the oil pump or rod/main bearings ... but I have a hard time buying into that. If it was cavitation in the oil pump, then why hasn't Ford redesigned the oil pump since 2011 when this ticking noise started in the Coyote engines ... but instead replace short/long blocks.


I read some more in that forum. The threads are long on this subject. A lot of speculation on what it is but piston slap keeps coming up as a common answer.

This is not something I would be happy with. New engines should not be ticking or knocking right off the showroom floor. I hope Ford finds the cause.


The "piston slap" is something that came along with the 2018+ Gen3 Coyote ... theory is due the the plasma sprayed cylinder liners like in the 5.2L GT350s.

The BBQ/typewriter tick is a different animal, and can happen in Coyote engines since 2011. So the 2018+ Coyote can have two different engine noised going on.

Yeah, there must be 100 threads on the ticking noises ... and some of the theories are wild. What's even more amazing is why hasn't Ford fixed the issue, I'm sure them must know what it is caused by.
 
Mine has it even with living on a steady diet of Motorcraft 5W50 its whole life. I have tried Ceratec and MOS2 randomly with no change. There is a TSB for earlier Coyotes in Mustangs to replace the stretch belt on the AC with a conventional tensioner style belt, the stretch belt was supposedly pulling on the nose of the crank causing excessive main bearing wear. I have the kit for my car as I already have the updated timing cover with the holes for a tensioner and idler pulley so it should be a pretty straight change.
 
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