Just want to know what you think,.Pick one and explain why..In 4 stroke engines, in hot climate ,what would you use? havoline sae 30w, havoline 20w50, or delo 15w40.. In florida its always hot, when I change my 30w oil it looks like water, should I look for something thicker? Most manufactures call for 30w,but I have friends in lawn business that say they have longer life with 20w50. Thanks for any advice.
best oil for lawn eqipment
- Thread starter Red Dog
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Red Dog, you'll get dozens of answers...
Multi-grade oils are not as stable in air cooled engines, you'll burn more...
So, stay with straight 30 weight, whatever brand...
Multi-grade oils are not as stable in air cooled engines, you'll burn more...
So, stay with straight 30 weight, whatever brand...
The 20-50 or the diesel oil should work fine.
The important thing is to change it soon after a new engine is put into use, and at reasonable intervals thereafter.
The important thing is to change it soon after a new engine is put into use, and at reasonable intervals thereafter.
I use 15W40 diesel oil on all air-cooled, non-Honda engines (For Honda GC series, I go with 10W30 Mobil 1 or Q-state full sync). Wallymart's tech2000 diesel oil gets my vote for all B&S air-cooled engines.
For commercial use in your conditions, shell rotella-t 5w-40 would be a HD option. Non commerical, any 15w-40 would be a good choice for florida heat. Just like anything else, these engines will run on just about anything provided the level stays adequate and it's changed at a reasonable interval.
Joel
Joel
I've been running Synpower 5W30 all season and think it works great. The engine is a 4hp Briggs and is about 10 years old and uses no oil and runs great. I had always used 30W dino, but last year I used 10W30 M1 with great results and this year I used some Synpower 5w30 that I had leftover and it works great. Briggs is recommending 5W30 as long as it is a synthetic.
My mower would start using oil towards the end of the season with the 30W, but it doesn't when using the synthetic. I'm sold on the lighter weight synthetics.
My mower would start using oil towards the end of the season with the 30W, but it doesn't when using the synthetic. I'm sold on the lighter weight synthetics.
O.K., So i guess theres no right or wrong answer. I was looking for a more scientific reason why one grade of oil would protect better than the other.
So I'll Just change filter and oil every 50 hrs and use what I want. Thats no fun it's to simple.
Any more advice? Thanks
I use ST synthetic 10W30 (Craftsman 6.5hp self propelled) and dump it once during the grass cutiing season (dust and other crud). In my Honda tractor, I change it @ the beginning of the season. I guess any decent oil is ok, if changed according to the enviroment used.
Lots of push type mowers use a qt or less, so I say change it often.. they do tend to take a bit of abuse in the heat.
Lots of push type mowers use a qt or less, so I say change it often.. they do tend to take a bit of abuse in the heat.
Been using the old formula amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil with no problems in my 15.5 hp briggs IC on a dixon ztr. Doesn't use any oil & oil stays clean most of the summer mowing 2 acres so probably 30 hrs or so runtime per season. 0w-30 in the snowblower & generator same thing, one change per season & good to go. I would use synthetic, for the extra $4/ yr in oil its cheap peace of mind.
Here in NE Texas, virtually every small engine mechanic & outdoor power equipment shop still recommends a straight 30 weight for 4-cycle air-cooled engines. And one local guy, a very good repairman, likes Pennzoil straight 40 best of all!
You'll get answers all over the board- I would say that for hot places like Tx & Fl, if you want to use a multiweight maybe synthetic is the way to go. Several guys posted earlier this summer about using WalMart SuperTech Synthetic 5w30 in the Texas heat, & said all was working out great.
So, maybe there's something to it: for ordinary dino oil, straight 30 or mebbe 40 weight; for a multi-weight dino 40, mebbe one of the good HDEO 15w40 oils like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo; safest of all is probably synthetic, in maybe a 5/10w30(even supertech seems good), or that Rotella 5w40 looks good though a little pricey.
You'll get answers all over the board- I would say that for hot places like Tx & Fl, if you want to use a multiweight maybe synthetic is the way to go. Several guys posted earlier this summer about using WalMart SuperTech Synthetic 5w30 in the Texas heat, & said all was working out great.
So, maybe there's something to it: for ordinary dino oil, straight 30 or mebbe 40 weight; for a multi-weight dino 40, mebbe one of the good HDEO 15w40 oils like Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo; safest of all is probably synthetic, in maybe a 5/10w30(even supertech seems good), or that Rotella 5w40 looks good though a little pricey.
I don't believe straight weight oils are the best for any application anymore ... and some are SA grade which will probably ruin an engine in only a short time of use.
A lot of wear occurs at start-up and some manufacturers say not to use these oils in temps less than 40F. They simply don't flow properly in even chilly weather.
Non detergent? No way, unless the motor is an antique.
20W-50 or straight 50 will probably cause your motor to run slower and hotter. They are significantly too thick.
I like 15W-40 or 5W-40 for extreme applications. Good, thick weight which is still thinner than straight 30 at start-up and an unbeatable additive package.
--- Bror Jace
A lot of wear occurs at start-up and some manufacturers say not to use these oils in temps less than 40F. They simply don't flow properly in even chilly weather.
Non detergent? No way, unless the motor is an antique.
20W-50 or straight 50 will probably cause your motor to run slower and hotter. They are significantly too thick.
I like 15W-40 or 5W-40 for extreme applications. Good, thick weight which is still thinner than straight 30 at start-up and an unbeatable additive package.
--- Bror Jace
just put some penz platinum 10w30 in my 96' honda 5.0hp ohv motor. the thing runs like new still. i can't tell a diff between it and the previous runs of amsoil atm 10w30 and the couple of runs w/ delvac 1300super 15-40. as bor said the 15-40's are hard to beat, giving good protection in air cooled lawn eqip. unless i was going to do really extended drain intervals, the hdeo's would prolly get my vote as well. just bought a troy built 4 cycle trimmer. the delvac 15-40 went in, instead of the supplied straight 30. penzdude
Another way to look at it: I haven't heard of an oil related failure of a 4 cycle outdoor power equipment engine. This only applies to of course engines that were properly maintained. 30wt non detergent??
Well that would be an exception I guess. I recently saw 30ND (only 30ND) placed stratigicly beside the push mowers in a local WalMart.
use 0w30 GC in my 6.5 HP B&S push mower and runs like a dream. after a year the oil is still green lol.
my JD 115 I havent decieded yet on the type of oil. really I think any oil is good. if you dont care for saving fuel then use the 40 to 50W oils. but I think 30 does just fine in outdoor equipment.
has anyone tried a 20 W oil in their mowers?
my JD 115 I havent decieded yet on the type of oil. really I think any oil is good. if you dont care for saving fuel then use the 40 to 50W oils. but I think 30 does just fine in outdoor equipment.
has anyone tried a 20 W oil in their mowers?
Yes, GC 0W-30 may be close to ideal (I still would like more mettalic adds
).
But for equipment I will run only in the summer, I want to use mineral oils and change them frequently to get all the nasty bits out of the sump. Most of these motors have no filter, after all.
So, I run 15W-40 in most.
--- Bror Jace
But for equipment I will run only in the summer, I want to use mineral oils and change them frequently to get all the nasty bits out of the sump. Most of these motors have no filter, after all.
So, I run 15W-40 in most.
--- Bror Jace
dont think you need to worry about the nasty bits. as most people with mowers never change the oil in the life of thir mowers and they put 10 to 20 years and just top off. so unless you are a commercial mower. I wouldnt really wory about changing the oil so often and a syn would prob do grreat and not have to change it but only every few years. I know I am on my 2nd year and the GC is still green on the stick and no dulling in color or turning black. so the engine must be pretty clean.
How much would you say they used those mowers in 10-20 years with no oil changes? Sure the mower, most certainly not the engine.... most that never get changed and get some use out of em (maybe half a acre) blow in 5 or so years. You may not see dirt in the oil, but it's in there.
Dark Jedi, yes some OPE engines will survive that kind of abuse ... but that doesn't make it right ... and it's not how I'd recommend others treat their machinery.
As 80Caprice hints at, when you drain the oil, you will see an enormous amount of junk in the oil. This doesn't show up on the dipstick. You'll see it easily in a pan or a clear jar.
Drain the oil, especially out of a newish engine, and you'll be amazed at the 'silver soup' that drains out of your motor ... even when the oil looks perfectly fine on the dipstick.
--- Bror Jace
As 80Caprice hints at, when you drain the oil, you will see an enormous amount of junk in the oil. This doesn't show up on the dipstick. You'll see it easily in a pan or a clear jar.
Drain the oil, especially out of a newish engine, and you'll be amazed at the 'silver soup' that drains out of your motor ... even when the oil looks perfectly fine on the dipstick.
--- Bror Jace
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