Renewable Lubricants

[Phishin]

Anyone on here using Renewable Lubricants (RLI) in their vehicles over a period of time? I'm going to be running it in my new truck as soon as I get through my free dealership oil changes (one more to go).

I've been patiently waiting and watching Amazon for deals and I've gotten some pretty decent scores. My truck calls for 5w30.

Today I purchased 4 gallons of 0w30 for $37.22/gallon
And a few months ago, I purchased 8 gallons of 10w30 for $24.42/gallon

Both of these prices included freight. So, if you can be patient, this oil can be had a decent price. This is 8 oil changes worth of oil (6 quarts sump). It comes out to $43 of oil per oil change.

I plan to use 4 quarts of 0w30 + 2 quarts of 10w30 for my winter oil. And 6 quarts of 10w30 for my summer oil.

I currently have a nice stash of 4 Royal Purple and 4 Fram Racing oil filters and I plan to dose a bit of Archoil 9300 in the crankcase as well.

 

[burla]

It would be great to get some uoa's on that stuff. Do you know the plants they use to extract the oil?

 

[andyd]

What plant material is involved ?

 

[burla]

I'm not sure I would be a guinea pig with a new 3500, I admire your bravery. Does they recommend it for your spec?

 

[JoelB]

What do you think the oil will do for you over using something off the shelf like Mobil, Valvoline, or any of the others commonly found on Walmart shelves?

 

[JustN89]

Originally Posted by JoelB
What do you think the oil will do for you over using something off the shelf like Mobil, Valvoline, or any of the others commonly found on Walmart shelves?

It's more environmentally friendly than your off-the-shelf oils.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by JoelB
What do you think the oil will do for you over using something off the shelf like Mobil, Valvoline, or any of the others commonly found on Walmart shelves?


Nothing. I just want to use it for awhile, at least 50-60k miles. I'm confident in its ability to properly lubricate my 6.0 gas engine.
Like most people on BITOG, I find vehicle maintenance an interesting "hobby". And I just find very little excitement in running all my vehicles on "Walmart" oil. There's nothing wrong with easily obtained off-the-shelf oil, I use it all the time.
But I'm science nerd, and I like trying out new things....

Originally Posted by burla
It would be great to get some uoa's on that stuff. Do you know the plants they use to extract the oil?


Yep, that's my plan. I think the UOA's will be interesting.

 

[patfan]

I have used this oil for the last 5 years in my pickup and it has served me well have over 150000 miles using this 0w30 grade and does not burn or leak a drop oil oil.I change oil between every 8000-10000 miles uoa's show only normal wear

 

[d00df00d]

I tried a few RLI formulations in my old car and got Dyson Analysis UOAs on all of them. Most recent UOA here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...0-low-ash-9867mi-1996-bmw-m3#Post3041312

That post has links to my entire UOA history on that car. All posts have a lot of commentary by me on oil consumption and other stuff.

That engine had had a hard life before I bought the car, and I didn't do it too many favors. I also ran some very long OCIs -- too long IMO, considering the fuel dilution. Can't comment on how well RLI's oils protected vs. other products, obviously; that'd require a lot more than UOAs on one car. But the oils themselves did seem to hold up quite well considering the beating they took.

 

[burla]

At some point this world will run out of easy to pump oil, in all likeliness this century. You don't have to be a tree hugger to see the benefit of this, it is just practical to look at other options. What group do they call this? Group 3? 2.5, 3.5? lol

 

[jc1112]

I ran the 5w30 flavor in a 2.3 mazdaspeed and ran 5000-6000 oci.
Controlling fuel dilution was difficult as it ran about 2.8-3.8 %.
Also, the iron wear was high.

 

[StevieC]

I ran RLI in my Santa Fe breifly on Dyson's advice but it was much more than Amsoil and I didn't see any increased benefit in my UOAs so I switched.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by jc1112
I ran the 5w30 flavor in a 2.3 mazdaspeed and ran 5000-6000 oci.
Controlling fuel dilution was difficult as it ran about 2.8-3.8 %.
Also, the iron wear was high.

Iron wear could have been high as a result of the fuel dilution. If the fuel dilution was about the same for the same OCI and iron wear was lower with a different oil then we might be able to attribute it to the RLI oil. If it was about the same then the dilution is the issue and a shorter OCI might be in order if the cause of the fuel dilution can't be addressed.

 

[Onetor]

Read good reviews of RLI. They use Antimony, which is rather expensive. Let us know what you think of it, short term and long term. I believe Schaeffer's was the only other to use it. But Pb hasn't been showing up on VOA and UOA's in the last couple years concerning Schaeffer's.

 

[JoelB]

Originally Posted by Phishin

What do you think the oil will do for you over using something off the shelf like Mobil, Valvoline, or any of the others commonly found on Walmart shelves?


Nothing. I just want to use it for awhile, at least 50-60k miles. I'm confident in its ability to properly lubricate my 6.0 gas engine.
Like most people on BITOG, I find vehicle maintenance an interesting "hobby". And I just find very little excitement in running all my vehicles on "Walmart" oil. There's nothing wrong with easily obtained off-the-shelf oil, I use it all the time.
But I'm science nerd, and I like trying out new things....

Totally understand that. I think my question came out more snarky than curious. I've always wanted to run Redline in one of my cars, but never had anything exciting enough to justify the cost. More power to you.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by JoelB

Totally understand that. I think my question came out more snarky than curious. I've always wanted to run Redline in one of my cars, but never had anything exciting enough to justify the cost. More power to you.


When I first came to BITOG, Redline was my "dream" oil that I wanted to run. Then it was Motul. But to be honest, I never had a "nice enough" car to justify the expensive of those oils. Even my brain couldn't justify running that in a 1990 Chevy truck or a 2001 Nissan Altima. LOL!!

So I held off on running those expensive oils in my "beaters". But I exercised "delayed gratification" telling myself, if I ever buy a new vehicle, I promise to treat her with only the best oils and maintenance. So, I just purchased my first ever new vehicle (I'm 43 years old) and by gosh, I'm going to follow through with my previous vow!!

These 6.0's run forever on just junk conventional oil. I know that. I'm not trying to "fix" anything or combat any problems. But for an extra $20 per oil change, it puts a smile on my face every time I walk outside to get in my truck, just knowing that I'm spoiling that truck beyond measure.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by Phishin
Originally Posted by JoelB

Totally understand that. I think my question came out more snarky than curious. I've always wanted to run Redline in one of my cars, but never had anything exciting enough to justify the cost. More power to you.


When I first came to BITOG, Redline was my "dream" oil that I wanted to run. Then it was Motul. But to be honest, I never had a "nice enough" car to justify the expensive of those oils. Even my brain couldn't justify running that in a 1990 Chevy truck or a 2001 Nissan Altima. LOL!!

So I held off on running those expensive oils in my "beaters". But I exercised "delayed gratification" telling myself, if I ever buy a new vehicle, I promise to treat her with only the best oils and maintenance. So, I just purchased my first ever new vehicle (I'm 43 years old) and by gosh, I'm going to follow through with my previous vow!!

These 6.0's run forever on just junk conventional oil. I know that. I'm not trying to "fix" anything or combat any problems. But for an extra $20 per oil change, it puts a smile on my face every time I walk outside to get in my truck, just knowing that I'm spoiling that truck beyond measure.


But the question is are you going to extend the life of that vehicle even 10,000 miles with that double priced oil?

But they are your cars and pick the oil you like.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson

But the question is are you going to extend the life of that vehicle even 10,000 miles with that double priced oil?

But they are your cars and pick the oil you like.


No way!!! Like I said, I know I'm not "achieving" anything mechanically with my truck. At best, the ester-rich RLI oil will help keep the engine clean and POSSIBLY prevent any sludge or stuck rings in this truck, which is mostly short-tripped to work and to the store (3 mile trips).

But the warm-fuzzy I get, because I'm a weird BITOG'er and I'm science minded, makes it all worth the extra expense. I can afford to blow a few extra bucks on something like this.

I also value supporting a local business, an American entrepreneur.

 

[CleverUserName]

I have RLI in two diesels now. my '17 Canyon Duramax and '03 VW Golf TDI. It's a 50/50 blend of 10w30 and 15w40 w/ 2% by volume of booster pak. Ran a VOA to get a baseline. I guess it's a 10w40 but it may actually be a thinned out 15w40. Not exactly sure of winter rating but I live in CA so not an issue.

Observations:

Higher HTHS than a typical synthetic, and resulting oil pressures than I was expecting for a 13.3 cSt oil. The hot oil pressure is higher than the D1 5w40 I was using which has a 14.5 cSt advertised viscosity.

Sheared down after about 2,000 miles. Lost about 5 psi hot oil pressure. Now 5k miles later Oil pressure is stabilized. No additional shearing. Oil pressure still strong @ 43 PSI at 1,750 RPM

Lower cold oil pressure. I'm guessing due to higher VI and lower 40c viscosity compared to D1.

Eliminated top end noise I had during cold startup with D1. Seems to flow better or stick to the top end better than D1 did.

I like RLI oils. No UOA, yet but will at next OCI. I had some incredible UOAs with D1 so I don't know if I can beat that with RLI, but we'll see what happens.

Gonna try more 10w30 next time. Maybe 2/3 10w30 and 1/3 15w40 for a winter blend.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted by CleverUserName

Lower cold oil pressure. I'm guessing due to higher VI and lower 40c viscosity compared to D1.

Eliminated top end noise I had during cold startup with D1. Seems to flow better or stick to the top end better than D1 did.


What is this D1 oil that you speak of? I don't recall ever hearing of it.
Thanks for the info about your diesel application.

With a dose Archoil 9300, I hope to give my RLI a boost in TBN retention, some low temperature friction/wear protection (boron), and perhaps increase it's cleaning ability a touch, if that's possible with this already polar Group V oil.