Anyone Ever Serviced The OCV on a Kia 3.3?

[NYEngineer]

My wife's 2009 Sorento has a CEL from cam timing. I bought new factory oil control valves for both sides because the code comes and goes and sometimes it's one side and sometimes it's the other.
I went to do it yesterday. She asked how long it would take and I said probably between one and two hours. I went outside, removed the upper plenum of the intake manifold and located them right in front in the valley. They're pretty big parts so it looks like they won't just slip out with the lower portions of the intake in place. Since I didn't have new intake gaskets, I put the car back together and ordered new gaskets and a service manual. So now it looks like I have to drain the coolant and relieve the fuel pressure so I can separate the fuel logs from the fuel line. MAYBE I only have to remove the driver side as maybe the passenger side one will make it out... Anyone know?

 

[Number_35]

I recently had the IM off our '09 Kia Sedona 3.8 (similar engine - Hyundai/Kia Lambda) to do the rear bank of plugs. I reused the IM gasket as it was steel and looked to be in good shape. No problems so far.

Please document this repair. Is this a common issue with these engines? Did you go with dealer parts, or are they available as aftermarket? How many miles on the vehicle? No problems with ours so far @ 122K km (c. 76K miles). There are horror stories about timing chain failure, so I'm keeping on top of the oil changes which is supposed to help.

 

[NYEngineer]

This seems to be a fairly common issue based on what I'm seeing online. Usually get away with removing them and cleaning them.
I bought factory parts.
The car has about 130,000 miles on it. I'm pretty good about keeping the oil changed when my wife will let the car sit long enough or me to do it.
Wow... This is the first I've heard about the timing chains on these. Great.

 

[Number_35]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings. However, per various BITOG threads, it seems that timing chains do better with:

1. Clean oil
2. A tight viscosity range (e.g. 5W-20 or 10W-30 vs. 0W-40)
3. A relatively thick oil @ operating temperature (i.e. a 30 or 40 vs. a 20).

Of course up here where at least a 5W and preferably a 0W really help in the winter, it's a bit of a dilemma as 2. and 3. contradict each other. For 3-season use, though, a 10W-30 should be good for the timing chain.

 

[NYEngineer]

I believe the engine calls for for 5-20 or 5 -30... Can't remember off the top of my head. Whatever it says on the fill cap is what I've been using. This car's days with us are numbered anyway. She wants something new to destroy.

 

[NYEngineer]

So... The Chilton's manual arrived yesterday. It is the most godawful manual I have ever seen for any car ever.
When I originally went into this job last week, I realized I had to remove the lower intake manifold. I ordered the manual for torque specs and sequence and how to relieve pressure from the fuel system and disconnect the lines. The wording is so vague and they even got the years wrong... I know 2010 is a totally different vehicle but they have our engine listed as a 2010. I could have saved myself thirty bucks and just done it myself.