Moly grease vs. Moly oil?

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The service manual for my bike calls for molybdenum disulfide oil in some places, and molybdenum disulfide grease in others. What is the difference between the two?

When I run a search for the oil, it brings up Bel Ray Engine Assembly Lube. I bought some of it, but it looks more like a paste than an oil. It has a brush on the bottom of the lid.
 
Originally Posted by kawie_guy
The service manual for my bike calls for molybdenum disulfide oil in some places, and molybdenum disulfide grease in others. What is the difference between the two?
.


Ummm... one's a grease and the other is an oil, both with molybdenum disulfide additives? :p

Seriously, I think its about that simple. Greases are semi-solid and will stay where you put them. Oils are liquids and flow. Most automotive greases are actually made by emulsifying petroleum or synthetic oils in a soap base. The soap base can be various chemistries- lithium and calcium being the most common. Bentonite (clay) is another type of grease base that is often used where water tolerance is more important than the absolute best lubricating qualities.
 
Originally Posted by 440Magnum
Originally Posted by kawie_guy
The service manual for my bike calls for molybdenum disulfide oil in some places, and molybdenum disulfide grease in others. What is the difference between the two?
.


Ummm... one's a grease and the other is an oil, both with molybdenum disulfide additives? :p

Seriously, I think its about that simple. Greases are semi-solid and will stay where you put them. Oils are liquids and flow. Most automotive greases are actually made by emulsifying petroleum or synthetic oils in a soap base. The soap base can be various chemistries- lithium and calcium being the most common. Bentonite (clay) is another type of grease base that is often used where water tolerance is more important than the absolute best lubricating qualities.



Yeah, that's what I thought too. But it called for the oil on the head bolts. I would've thought the grease would've been better there....?
 
Oil in the head bolts is for a wet torque


Don't want grease there. Won't get into all the threads, and the amount of grease you'd need to lubricate said threads puts you at risk of hydrolocking the bolt during torque down and cracking the block
 
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Oil in the head bolts is for a wet torque


Don't want grease there. Won't get into all the threads, and the amount of grease you'd need to lubricate said threads puts you at risk of hydrolocking the bolt during torque down and cracking the block



Bel Ray says their assembly lube helps prevent thread stripping and allows for accurate torquing.
 
Then follow that instead of the build manual
It's your bike, not mine
lol.gif
 
After going to four different part stores, and having nothing but blank stares for answers when I asked if they had moly disulfide oil, I decided to call Bel Ray and ask about their assembly lube. The technician over the powersports products said my job is precisely what assembly lube is for. It has oil and moly in it, which is what the manual calls for. They put it in paste form so it will stay where you want it, but the oil in it will run when torqued down. It's also oil soluble.

There's only four head bolts where this moly disulfide oil is needed, and they only get 36 ft lbs of torque, so I figured I'd take Bel Ray up at their word.

I put a smearing on the length of the threads, and on top and bottom of the head bolt washers and torqued them down in sequence to 36 ft lbs on a click style torque wrench. Assembled the entire engine, then took it apart again. The head bolts came loose at 34.7 ft lbs according to my digital torque adapter tool that records breaking point force. There was not much paste left on the bolts. Looked like it had mostly turned to oil. They felt smooth and predictable threading in and out. So I put more assembly lube on the same things, and reassembled the engine again. (The reason for two assemblies was to check piston to valve clearance). Filled it full of coolant, and fired it up. Sounded great, no leaks, and no cracks. Went for a 3 mile ride to heat up the oil, then changed it to my winter viscosity. Then I took the bike for a 25 mile ride, and no issues to report. Full power restored, and she purrs like a kitten.

Good enough for me!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by 440Magnum
Originally Posted by kawie_guy

http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-assembly-lube


Is the BelRay product mentioned in the manual, or did that just pop up when you googled for molybdenum disulfide oil? Because there are lots of moly assembly lubes that ARE oils, and not greases. e.g. Redline: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80319-Liquid-Assembly/dp/B0068FWM70




It just popped up when I googled it. Nothing came up that specifically says "molybdenum disulfide oil" on the label or in the description. There were some liquid moly additives for motor oil, or high moly content motor oils in the results, but no straight moly disulfide oil. Lots of assembly lubes come up, but half of them contain no moly (like the Redline stuff you linked).
Some of the guys on the street bike forums that have my brand of bike say that they're manuals call for molybdenum disulfide oil too, but give a formula of 10 parts motor oil to one part dry moly disulfide as the solution. My manual did not detail that.
Bel Rays spec sheet says that their assembly lube is 40% molybdenum disulfide. So I guess I got a little more moly than what the manual calls for, but it seems to have worked anyway.
 
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