Wired Routers

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I'm not a huge fan of TP-Link, I'd recommend a Netgear ProSafe as an equally affordable option instead, however I know a lot of folks on here love their stuff.
 
He said less than 10mbps, but almost everything new is gigabit. There is no router around that can't handle that speed. That is why it had to be a hardware or wiring problem
 
Obviously, a 100 Mbps connection to the internet is sufficient for my internet service. I thought that, since the cost of a Gigabit switch is not much more than the cost of a 10/100 switch, I would have a faster performing switch for my home network.
 
Originally Posted by Vikas
why in the world you need *giga*bits switch? what is your link to the rest of the world?



Because there's basically no price hit going Gig-E over 10/100, particularly with cheap unmanaged stuff.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
I should come down to visit you from the Hammer and help you.
grin2.gif


Those $20 routers IMO would be an issue, they aren't full duplex on the wired ports. If you look they will be missing pins where the ethernet cables go and this would restrict bandwidth. Further they really are for light cable / dsl packages and minimal traffic.


Since the cheapies are only 100mb they only use 4 conductors. It's not an issue that they only have 4 pins. Number of pins has nothing to do with duplex or no duplex.

You run into duplex issues when one end is configured for auto/auto and the other end is set to 100/full. the auto side doesn't get the negotiation information it needs from the hard coded end, so it falls back to half duplex.

both ends need to be auto/auto or 100/full. Don't mix speed/dulex.
 
Originally Posted by Subdued
Originally Posted by StevieC
I should come down to visit you from the Hammer and help you.
grin2.gif


Those $20 routers IMO would be an issue, they aren't full duplex on the wired ports. If you look they will be missing pins where the ethernet cables go and this would restrict bandwidth. Further they really are for light cable / dsl packages and minimal traffic.


Since the cheapies are only 100mb they only use 4 conductors. It's not an issue that they only have 4 pins. Number of pins has nothing to do with duplex or no duplex.

You run into duplex issues when one end is configured for auto/auto and the other end is set to 100/full. the auto side doesn't get the negotiation information it needs from the hard coded end, so it falls back to half duplex.

both ends need to be auto/auto or 100/full. Don't mix speed/dulex.



The reason I said what I did is because my friend that lives in a rural area (Delhi for the locals) has Microwave internet and his modem has a Gigabit connection to his Router. I just wanted the best for the OP in case his situation was the same.
 
Delhi is a HUGE city; you are the first person to call Delhi as "rural"


(Ya, I know about the snow storms in Miami too :)
 
Originally Posted by fraso
StevieC earlier recommended the TP-Link Archer C9 AC1900 Smart Wireless Router. I have my router mounted on the wall with the cables plugging into ports on the side of the router and I see that that the Archer C9 has ports on the back.

Going back to my original question, since I don't need a WiFi router in my garage and I can easily repurpose my TL-WR841N as a WAP, would this be a good alternative?
TP-Link TL-R600VPN Gigabit Broadband VPN Wired Router

Why not give it a shot? Once you have it running good as AP, you can take the plunge and change its SSID to match your main router and make the hand over seemless.
Just keep few apps handy to know the BSSID of the AP your device has connected to when things do not work the way you expect.

I spent few weeks trying to nail couple of APs down to blanket my house with reasonable coverage after discarding a buggy AP/router unit.
 
Originally Posted by Vikas
Delhi is a HUGE city; you are the first person to call Delhi as "rural"


(Ya, I know about the snow storms in Miami too :)



Delhi, Ontario is a farming town and it's not huge at all. Maybe in area but it's not like a city like Toronto.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by Subdued
Since the cheapies are only 100mb they only use 4 conductors. It's not an issue that they only have 4 pins. Number of pins has nothing to do with duplex or no duplex.

You run into duplex issues when one end is configured for auto/auto and the other end is set to 100/full. the auto side doesn't get the negotiation information it needs from the hard coded end, so it falls back to half duplex.

both ends need to be auto/auto or 100/full. Don't mix speed/dulex.


My TL-WR841N is spec'd for 10/100Mbps Ethernet ports. The router does in fact have 4-pin ports. My old EBR-2310 is also spec'd for 10/100Mbps (IEEE 802.3u 100Base-TX Fast Ethernet & IEEE 802.3 NWay Auto-Negotiation) but has 8-pin ports. My two 10/100 switches also have 8-pin ports.

I thought that that full-duplex requires 8-pins and 4-pin only permits half-duplex communication.
 
Originally Posted by fraso
Originally Posted by Subdued
Since the cheapies are only 100mb they only use 4 conductors. It's not an issue that they only have 4 pins. Number of pins has nothing to do with duplex or no duplex.

You run into duplex issues when one end is configured for auto/auto and the other end is set to 100/full. the auto side doesn't get the negotiation information it needs from the hard coded end, so it falls back to half duplex.

both ends need to be auto/auto or 100/full. Don't mix speed/dulex.


My TL-WR841N is spec'd for 10/100Mbps Ethernet ports. The router does in fact have 4-pin ports. My old EBR-2310 is also spec'd for 10/100Mbps (IEEE 802.3u 100Base-TX Fast Ethernet & IEEE 802.3 NWay Auto-Negotiation) but has 8-pin ports. My two 10/100 switches also have 8-pin ports.

I thought that that full-duplex requires 8-pins and 4-pin only permits half-duplex communication.


No, you need all of them for Gig-E, 100 will work fine at full duplex.
 
I had never come across 4-pin ethernet cable. the only 4-pin cable was the 2-line telephone one. half of the responders here never even seen a telephone cable :)

Couple of weekend ago I was at friends house and a 2 year toddler of guest was asking his dad what was the thingy with corded cable hanging from the wall!
 
So the Ethernet connection between the 2 routers goes through a wiring panel? Did you make sure the wiring are connected to the right "pair" as they were?

The reason I ask is, about 18 years ago, I bought a cable from ebay and the seller crimp the wiring pair wrong, so instead of the 1-2, 3-6, 4-5, 7-8 pairs end up being 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, and one pair is not twisted as expected. My network would go 10Mbps but not 100Mbps. I research online and found that, and then re-crimp it myself and the problem went away.

If you can borrow an ethernet switch to test, you can use that to rule out the router or the cable. Narrow it down to which component and go from there.
 
My Ethernet distribution panel is a a ChannelPlus H236 enclosure with ChannelPlus H628 data termination hubs. This panel is in my basement and I've run Cat 5 cable to Leviton RJ45 wall jacks in conduit throughout my house. The hubs and wall jacks are color-coded so it's hard to connect them incorrectly. Having checked my connections in Windows previously, I've regularly connected to the network at 100 Mbps.

I only have one router in operation. I have Cat5 (has foil, might be 5e) cable from the tower switch to my router and that same cable from the router to one of my switches. The cable from the router to the switch is terminated with a modular plug at both ends. When running the Cat5 cable, I used a punchdown tool to connect all 8 wires in the hubs and wall jacks.

What I would like to know is clarification about Subdued's comment about cheap routers having 4 pins rather than 8. My old D-Link EBR-2310 and DIR-601 both have 8-pin Ethernet ports but my new TP-Link TL-WR841N only has 4-pin ports.

Do good 10/100 routers have 8-pin ports?
What implications does having a 4-pin Ethernet port have compared with an 8-pin port?
Would my old D-Link 10/100 routers have had better Ethernet performance than my new TL-WR841N?
 
From what I've able to find so far, the number of pins in the port doesn't matter for a 10/100 router or switch because the connection only uses 4 wires.

Since one of my old switches has a bad port, I thought I would upgrade to a 16 port gigabit switch (TP-Link TL-SG1016D). I've ordered a wired gigabit router (TP-Link TL-R600VPN) to match the gigabit switch. I'm happy with my TP-Link TL-WR841N router and I'm going to repurpose it as a WAP in a better location than where it's mounted now as a router.

Thanks for the great advice. After getting my connection speed sorted out, I did a write-up about my experience in case others were in a similar situation: Home Networks
 
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