30W vs. 15W-40?

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I have a few B+S motors and a 8HP Kohler that say to use 30W in the summer. I local rental place says they use 10W-40 in every thing they have.

I was thinking 15w-40 would be good, what do you think?

Thanks,
John
 
quote:

Originally posted by Hubjeep:
Is there any advantage to using a mono-weight oil like W30?

Not really. Alot of the newer mower motors are recommending a multi weight typ oils. I have used both 10W-30 and 5W-30 oils for engines that called out straight 30 weight with no problems.

Hootbro
 
quote:

Is there any advantage to using a mono-weight oil like W30?

SAE 30 HD is a very heat resistant motor oil and traditionally a good choice for air cooled 4 cycle engines.

The 10W-30 and 5W-30 multi-viscosity oils have higher Noack volatility ratings and could generate burn-off in some engines.

SAE 30's have also generally stayed at the API SL levels for ZDDP since the automotive catalytic converter issues do not apply.
 
HubJeep, 15W-40 is a favorite oil type/weight for many of us here at BITOG for use in outdoor power equipment.

Try searching this subsection using "15W-40."

--- Bror Jace
 
30 wt oil has been said to thin more at high temps than even a 10w-30... something to consider in air cooled equipment at high ambent temperatures... thus a 15w-40, with increaded stability/decreased volatility, a better add pack, and likely more viscosity at the bearings, might be a top notch choice.


Im using amsoil ACD, which meets SAE 30 and 10w-30 specs... and is synthetic. Im using it for honda, robin and B&S equipment.

JMH
 
Why would a 30 thin more at high temps? I thought that was the point of using the straight weight because of all of the above mentioned reasons(including decreased volatality, decreased shear, etc.) but I thought that it would have a better HTHS than say a 10w-30. I guess my thoughts on whether or not to use a straight 30 in my lawn equipment is now going to be a 15w-40 HDEO for sure. I can have the benefits over PCMO's now and a better HTHS than 30 weights in general.
 
decreased volatility and shear are good reasons for using a straight weight... but viscosity at the bearings is another issue.

IMO its smart to use a syn or diesel oil anyway.

JMH
 
quote:

Why would a 30 thin more at high temps?

An SAE 30 HD has better high temp volatility than a 10W-30 because it has a higher percentage of 6 cSt base oil and does not require the VI improvers and pour point depressants to help meet the 10W spec of 7000 cP @ -25C.

In other words, that's why a straight 30 weight has poor cold start performance at temps less than 50 degrees F - the heavier base oils have poor cold temp performance.
 
I knew about the VI improvers and pour point depressants and what they did. I guess I just thought that the pour point depressants and VI improvers would be so overwhelmed that it would have a thinner HTHS viscosity, it just seems weird.

I'll be sticking with the syn or diesel that i've been planning on for this years oil fills on the lawn equip.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Hubjeep:
Is there any advantage to using a mono-weight oil like W30?

SAE30 is spec'ed for warmer weather to reduce consumption. 10w-30 is spec'ed for cold weather operation. SAE30 doesn't flow in the cold.

B&S has reverse spec'ed all of their engines to run 5w-30 full synthetic at all temps. B&S sells a full synth for about $6 per qt. I use Wal-mart's own Supertech 5w-30 full synth ($12/5qt) in all of my small engines. Air-cooled engines love this stuff!

15w-40 is good in small engines too. I have used it as have many others on here. Should be ok for year-around use.
 
A 5W-30 or 10W-30 is sometimes claimed to result in your burning more oil than with a straight 30 weight. On the other hand, they allow the engine to start up better in cold weather and are thus good for snowblowers, for example. I just run a good brand of either 5W-30 or 10W-30 in my snowblower, 2 walk behind lawnmowers, and rototiller. They don't seem to burn any oil between oil changes, which I do each year. They all start up easily. I just bought 6 quarts of Castrol GTX 10W-30 for them.
 
Briggs and Stratton recommend and sell under their own brand a synthetic 5w30 oil for their mowers. They say that multigrade dino oil will show some consumption versis a 30w dino.

I have one of those Honda 5.5 hp OHC engines on my mower, purchased in 2000. After the 5 hour break-in with 30w furnished with the mower, it has seen only Mobil 1; 5w30 until last year, and last year I had a quart of 0w30 M1 and decided to use it, just to see if it would lead to increased consumption, since in the previous years I had not had to add a drop of oil. I put it in in March of 2005, and, 64.7 hours of use later, I changed it in March of this year.(I have an hour meter on this mower). The dip stick showed less than 1/16th inch of consumption; probably most of this was used up in checking the oil and wiping off the dip stick. All I had in stock this year was M1 5w30, so I used that.

Remember one thing about these small air=cooled engines: Most,if not all, of them use an oil slinger on the crankshaft to spread the oil around for lubrication. If you are using 30w or 15w40, the oil is much harder to sling than a 0w-or a 5w30. It burns more gas, and puts out less power because of the power absorbed by the thick oil. Just my theory.
 
My kohler command 20 V-twin purrs like a kitten on Shell Rotella-T 5w-40. Kohler spec's 30wts, I tried the R-T since that's what I had on hand & have no other use for it. Seems like a keeper for this application.

Joel
 
I read my B&S manual for my 11 yr old mower. I had been using 10w40 all these years. Turns out it calls for 30 for any temp above 40 degrees. If below 40, it calls for 10w30. It states that the "use of muli-viscosity oil may result in extreme oil consumsion, and possible damage". I've been trying to kill it, and it won't die. I just put some 30 SAE Rotella T in last night. I also changed the spark plug for the first time -- tried a DiamondFire E3. Changed the muffler, and air filter as well. I figured I might as well treat it right -- since it doesn't want to die:)
 
We recently got a 35 ton wood splitter from Tractor Supply (made by SpeeCo):

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=5&paID=1037&sonID=778&productID=14591

It has a 12.5hp Briggs & Stratton I/C engine ... and a pull start. This thing is not easy to get started in cool weather ... despite being rather new.

I have started it twice ... both in 30F-40F weather and I'll never use a straight 30 in this motor again. I drained it after the first hour's use and refilled with either a 10W-30 or 15W-40.

Even the manual recommends that 10W-30 not be used in temps 30F and colder as "engine damage may result." How's that for an endorsement?

Since we do most of the splitting in the fall with mornings often below freezing, why would I ever use a straight 30 weight oil?

I'd consider using a synthetic ... but this machine is still very new and I prefer dumping the oil frequently for the first year or two and I don't like dumping $4+ per quart oil with just an hour or two's run time on it.

Yes, I suppose with a 15W-40 there are some pumping losses ... but I haven't run into any significant signs of that yet ... and the excellent additive package in these oils keeps the motor nice and clean.

--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
Rotella Synthetic 5W-40.

YES!!
worshippy.gif
 
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