Will Rubberized Undercoating Kill your Car - SMA
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Originally Posted by andyd
It was a looonnng process. But I had the stuff and the time. Linseed oil. Takes a month or more to dry. It creates an airtight seal. No air, no water. I was advised to use it inside doors and voids.Places where the sun doesn't shine. I used it on the frame I was repairing. 5 yrs later, more frame repairs. The coated areas are just like I had left them.
You'll be at it for years to get a decent coating built up if you use normal linseed instead of BLO. You can also paint right over it!
It was a looonnng process. But I had the stuff and the time. Linseed oil. Takes a month or more to dry. It creates an airtight seal. No air, no water. I was advised to use it inside doors and voids.Places where the sun doesn't shine. I used it on the frame I was repairing. 5 yrs later, more frame repairs. The coated areas are just like I had left them.
You'll be at it for years to get a decent coating built up if you use normal linseed instead of BLO. You can also paint right over it!
Originally Posted by diyjake
what do you guys pay to get a rust prevention treatment?
About $150 USD / Canada for Krown application, depends on the size of the vehicle. You can buy the Aerosol from their US website to do it yourself if you want.
what do you guys pay to get a rust prevention treatment?
About $150 USD / Canada for Krown application, depends on the size of the vehicle. You can buy the Aerosol from their US website to do it yourself if you want.
In the aviation world, we also have some severe corrosion problems. We use a completely different array of products. Corrosion X is one that comes to mind first. It's a thin oil that gets everywhere, including in lap seams. Works quite well when regularly applied.
Corrosion X, Max Wax is another interesting product. Also works quite well in ultra thin layers. Generally I apply some to a microfiber and wipe it on.
Par-Al-Ketone is another product that is extremely effective. It's like cosmoline, thin when applied, very viscous when dry. Not a wax, not an oil but halfway between.
Boeshield is a clear product that turns into a hard coating. It's not all that effective. It tends to dry out. But it is very thin when applied and thickens up to a hard shell.
Corrosion X Heavy Duty is a very thick oil based product. Applied on top of seams already sprayed with regular Corrosion X and you have a near perfect combo. This stuff is amazingly effective. Never dries and continues to drip and flow, ever so slowly, for years.
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61rmFbFec1L._SY355_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41EpsjX2RdL.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cache/370-320-/catalog/graphics/09-26800.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61kD8SIy%2BfL._SL1232_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/4112kC-wi5L._SX466_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
There are many other products that are also used. Such as the amazing AV-30 that flows into every seam and then gets thick. However they are stupidly expensive and really not any better than the above for automotive use. In this pic, you can see that I applied AV-30 to one side of a frame, and it clearly went all the way to the other side. (see the reddish brown tint on the other side) Wicks like crazy and stays put. However, it's about $1200 for a 5 gal pail. $34 for a small spray can.
![[Linked Image]](http://cujet.com/assets/images/DSC00877resize.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Corrosion X, Max Wax is another interesting product. Also works quite well in ultra thin layers. Generally I apply some to a microfiber and wipe it on.
Par-Al-Ketone is another product that is extremely effective. It's like cosmoline, thin when applied, very viscous when dry. Not a wax, not an oil but halfway between.
Boeshield is a clear product that turns into a hard coating. It's not all that effective. It tends to dry out. But it is very thin when applied and thickens up to a hard shell.
Corrosion X Heavy Duty is a very thick oil based product. Applied on top of seams already sprayed with regular Corrosion X and you have a near perfect combo. This stuff is amazingly effective. Never dries and continues to drip and flow, ever so slowly, for years.
There are many other products that are also used. Such as the amazing AV-30 that flows into every seam and then gets thick. However they are stupidly expensive and really not any better than the above for automotive use. In this pic, you can see that I applied AV-30 to one side of a frame, and it clearly went all the way to the other side. (see the reddish brown tint on the other side) Wicks like crazy and stays put. However, it's about $1200 for a 5 gal pail. $34 for a small spray can.
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On the US Krown website it's $9.95 per can and it goes on thin, seeps everywhere and then dries with an invisible barrier. If you touch and area where it was applied to it will transfer some to your hands.
https://shopusa.krown.com/collections/krown-aerosol-products
That Aviation stuff does look like amazing stuff but the cost would be pretty high for an automotive application that isn't as critical as aviation. Just my opinion.
Thanks for mentioning it though. I might have other uses for that stuff.
https://shopusa.krown.com/collections/krown-aerosol-products
That Aviation stuff does look like amazing stuff but the cost would be pretty high for an automotive application that isn't as critical as aviation. Just my opinion.
Thanks for mentioning it though. I might have other uses for that stuff.
lol that undercoating was definitely applied over a rusty frame. Those 2011-era Silverados are NOTORIOUS for frame rust and rusted rear wheel wells.
That truck has 50K miles on it. Rusty already?
Cujet,
What do you think of the ACF-50 for aircraft use? I have never used it, but it seems to wick through lap joints on aircraft like crazy. I wonder if it would be a good automotive corrosion/rust preventative?
What do you think of the ACF-50 for aircraft use? I have never used it, but it seems to wick through lap joints on aircraft like crazy. I wonder if it would be a good automotive corrosion/rust preventative?
You can get Corrosion X on Ebay not too bad price.
Originally Posted by andyd
It was a looonnng process. But I had the stuff and the time. Linseed oil. Takes a month or more to dry. It creates an airtight seal. No air, no water. I was advised to use it inside doors and voids.Places where the sun doesn't shine. I used it on the frame I was repairing. 5 yrs later, more frame repairs. The coated areas are just like I had left them.
I used a mix of sunflower oil, diesel and motor oil when I first got the (badly rusted) car, applied with a hand trigger sprayer. Linseed oil will set quicker.
Seems to have held up fairly well but needs re-treated now since the sills spent this summer full of rainwater.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4875475/leak-sealing-and-mould-treatments
Snag with vegetable oils is they can grow mould in enclosed spaces, a particular problem inside door skins, where it could be a health hazard.
I may do replacement door skins to improve ventilation next time around.
The diesel was for sprayability, the motor oil to possibly inhibit mould and slow the setting of the veg oil further, but I'm not sure that's necessary.
I've since used straight veg oil and aluminium a lot as an anti-rust paint (pictures of a recent application in the above linked post) and I may just go with veg oil when I do the next underbody treatment.
It was a looonnng process. But I had the stuff and the time. Linseed oil. Takes a month or more to dry. It creates an airtight seal. No air, no water. I was advised to use it inside doors and voids.Places where the sun doesn't shine. I used it on the frame I was repairing. 5 yrs later, more frame repairs. The coated areas are just like I had left them.
I used a mix of sunflower oil, diesel and motor oil when I first got the (badly rusted) car, applied with a hand trigger sprayer. Linseed oil will set quicker.
Seems to have held up fairly well but needs re-treated now since the sills spent this summer full of rainwater.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4875475/leak-sealing-and-mould-treatments
Snag with vegetable oils is they can grow mould in enclosed spaces, a particular problem inside door skins, where it could be a health hazard.
I may do replacement door skins to improve ventilation next time around.
The diesel was for sprayability, the motor oil to possibly inhibit mould and slow the setting of the veg oil further, but I'm not sure that's necessary.
I've since used straight veg oil and aluminium a lot as an anti-rust paint (pictures of a recent application in the above linked post) and I may just go with veg oil when I do the next underbody treatment.
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Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
It looks to me as if fresh undercoating was put on an already trashed out truck. Why is the undercoating so shiny and black? If it really had a few years on it the undercoating would be very, very dirty looking. Something seems
a little suspicious here.
Yes, some of it looks suspect, like it was recently done, over dirt and rust.
IIRC (not watching it again to check) the guy said its touched - up annually by Ziebart.
Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
It looks to me as if fresh undercoating was put on an already trashed out truck. Why is the undercoating so shiny and black? If it really had a few years on it the undercoating would be very, very dirty looking. Something seems
a little suspicious here.
Yes, some of it looks suspect, like it was recently done, over dirt and rust.
IIRC (not watching it again to check) the guy said its touched - up annually by Ziebart.
Originally Posted by StevieC
On the US Krown website it's $9.95 per can and it goes on thin, seeps everywhere and then dries with an invisible barrier. If you touch and area where it was applied to it will transfer some to your hands.
https://shopusa.krown.com/collections/krown-aerosol-products
That Aviation stuff does look like amazing stuff but the cost would be pretty high for an automotive application that isn't as critical as aviation. Just my opinion.
Thanks for mentioning it though. I might have other uses for that stuff.
I've read...er...somewhere, of linseed oil being used in an aviation context, on steel tube fabric covered fuselages.
Think the Auster was mentioned specifically, but I believe there are quite a few. Tiger Moth, Hurricane, maybe Piper Cub come to mind as possible examples, though I havn't checked.
IIRC they filled the fuselage tubes up (overnight?) and then drained them. Can't remember if it was "boiled" or not, but I'd guess "boiled" would be more effective.
On the US Krown website it's $9.95 per can and it goes on thin, seeps everywhere and then dries with an invisible barrier. If you touch and area where it was applied to it will transfer some to your hands.
https://shopusa.krown.com/collections/krown-aerosol-products
That Aviation stuff does look like amazing stuff but the cost would be pretty high for an automotive application that isn't as critical as aviation. Just my opinion.
Thanks for mentioning it though. I might have other uses for that stuff.
I've read...er...somewhere, of linseed oil being used in an aviation context, on steel tube fabric covered fuselages.
Think the Auster was mentioned specifically, but I believe there are quite a few. Tiger Moth, Hurricane, maybe Piper Cub come to mind as possible examples, though I havn't checked.
IIRC they filled the fuselage tubes up (overnight?) and then drained them. Can't remember if it was "boiled" or not, but I'd guess "boiled" would be more effective.
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