Honda NC700X Red Line 10W30 2 1/2 year OCI

[bulwnkl]

So, I kinda forgot to change the oil for 2 years and 4 months. I basically quit riding the bike for over a year. Just an _occasional_ jaunt around the block or up to the library, so lots and lots of sitting and Sta-bil.

6,200 miles, Fram TG filter. Previous UOA is here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4107645/Honda_NC700X_Red_Line_10W30


Fe 7
Cr 0
Pb 2
Cu 2
Sn 0
Al 3
Ni 1
Ag 0
Si 14
K 1
Na 9
B 8
Mg 11
Ca 2336
Ba 2
P 1821
Zn 2056
Mo 443
Ti 1
V 1

100C vis: 10.0
TAN 3.63

 

[GimmeTorq]

I was under the impression high Mo content was not compatible with shared sump bikes, but this oil is loaded with Mo and JASO MA. Looks good.

 

[bulwnkl]

I've read the same thing about molybdenum and wet clutches. It's clearly nonsense, but the story persists.

 

[SuperSalad]

Originally Posted by bulwnkl
I've read the same thing about molybdenum and wet clutches. It's clearly nonsense, but the story persists.

It isn't nonsense, but it isn't an absolute either. Many people who speak about it just don't fully understand it. It depends on the type of moly, the amount, and the rest of the formula. Moly compounds can absolutely move an oil into the MB friction range.

 

[bulwnkl]

Of course they can, but that's not pertinent to JASO MA-compliant oils. The existence of MA-compliant oils with moderate to very high molybdenum content demonstrates the bald statement is nonsense. What would make it _not_ nonsense would be to say something along the lines of, ‘some molybdenum compounds are incompatible with most motorcycle wet clutches, while others are suited to them, so make sure you get JASO MA oil if that's what your bike specifies.'

 

[SuperSalad]

Exactly.

The specifications are more important than the ingredients, which is what you are saying above, I think.

 

[Bonz]

IMO, a proper oil in a sealed crankcase doesn't become unusable from a time perspective when talking months or a year even when ridden sparingly. My bike sits for a month (weather dependent) at a time, or with one or two 20-25 mile rides per month over the winter each year here in Colorado. Typically I change the oil in the fall, so it is going through the winter on fairly fresh oil. Then ride it for the remainder of the OCI come spring/summer and change it again for the fall.

Good 100c vis for a 10w30 after 6200 miles at 10.0

The M1 10w40 4T I just took out of my ZRX 1200 after 4603 miles was 11.98 100c vis. TBN was still 6.5. Shift quality was great.

Valvoline 10W40 4 Stroke conventional was 11.11 after only 1400 miles.

Redline and Mobil 1 Synthetic MC specific oils hold up really well in a shared sump. The best "other" oil I have used was Rotella T5 15w40 syn blend. Still in grade at 12.77 100c vis at 3700 miles.

 

[webfors]

Great report! I love the HTHS on Redline oils. Their 10w40 is 4.7 and has cold numbers that rival most 30 weight synthetics. Now if I could only get it for $5 a quart

 

[Bonz]

Mobil has their fall rebate thru end of October. Pick up 5 qts of the 10w40 4T or 20w50 V twin depending on your bike's needs. $12 rebate from Mobil makes the effective cost around $7.50 a quart. The 10w40 is a thin 40 wt to begin, and sheared down barely but ended up in the high 30 wt range for me. Would work where a multi grade 30 wt is called for with no problem, IMO. Edit: I believe 10w40 is listed as an OK oil in the NC700 manual, but correct me if I am wrong.

 

[bulwnkl]

You are wrong.

Okay, okay: In fact, 10W40 _is_ listed in the _service_ manual, but not in the owner's manual. Many people use 10W40 in these motorcycles, and at least some of the local Honda dealers only stock 10W40 for svc dep't use.